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Bernard LoiseauThree Star Haute Cuisine FrancaisBy Walter GlaserThe Burgundy countryside is one of the most beautiful in France. Vineyards march across hillsides, white charolais graze contentedly, and small brooks gurgle along the roadside. Traveling in this area is a true delight, made even better when one discovers a La Cote D'Or. Burgundy is not only famous for its wines, but also for some of the great chefs to be found in that region. A leader among these is Bernard Loiseau whose hedonistic retreat, the Hotel De La Cote D’Or in Saulieu, is a hard act to beat. Of over 4,000 restaurants rated by Guide Michelin in France ‑‑ and naturally these are the best establishments in the country ‑‑ only 20-or-so chefs currently hold the Three Star rating, the very baccalaureate of gastronomy. Loiseau, a true innovator as well as one of France's 'greats', brings a new philosophy to traditional French cuisine. Bernard Loiseau's career is impressive by any standards. He began with the famous Troisgrois brothers in Roanne, and in 1975, transferred to the Restaurant La Cote d'Or in Saulieu. Here he received his first Michelin star and was highly rated by Gault & Millau who gave him three stars and 17 out of 20 in that year. By 1981 his rating had grown to 18 out of 20 and he had won his second Michelin star. He purchased La Cote d'Or in October 1982. It was in March 1991 that a third Michelin Star, the ultimate tribute of French gastronomy, was awarded to Loiseau. Today Parisians and the country's leading politicians think nothing of driving to Saulieu just to experience his remarkable cuisine, the superb quality of which is matched by the setting. The beautifully restored 18th century building of La Cote d'Or was originally a post‑house and the characteristic charm of that period is jealously maintained. Located in the Haute Bourgogne, this area is famous for Charolais beef, Epoisses and Chevre cheeses, and Burgundy snails. In 1990 Loiseau and his charming wife Dominique added brand new kitchens, three new dining rooms, and attractive suites that overlook the landscaped courtyard and garden. Since then additional upgrading, and the inclusion of a brilliant spa section has enhanced the hotel even further. It was Dominique who was responsible for first adding the outstanding boutique, and later creating the hotel’s new spa. “I found that visitors who came here, whether from Paris or from overseas, like the idea of taking back a memento of their visit. So we took the shop next door and created the Loiseau Boutique, and clients loved it. It’s the perfect place to find anything from Bernard’s favourite wines to cutlery, condiments or pot holders. We also sell a lot of his cook books, and some delicious biscuits and small cakes to take away. ” “Then I began noticing how spas were becoming extremely popular. Massage, facials, body-wraps and aromatherapy were all things that I loved, and our clients loved too. Bernard was too engrossed with his cooking to pay much attention, so he left that part to me. I was sure it would work, and it did. " "What I find so interesting is the change in men’s attitude. Men have always enjoyed massage treatments, but only in the last few years have facials and aromatherapy become acceptable to them. So now we find these becoming more and more popular with both sexes. ” The main dining room at La Cote d'Or is warm and inviting, with a gently domed ceiling of wooden beams, and an outdoor terrace where diners can enjoy pre-dinner drinks in summer. The floor features large terra-cotta tiles and scattered oriental rugs. Attractive wooden‑framed chairs bring out the rustic ambiance. Dishes here, though light, are very big on flavor. This chef does not believe in rich, heavy sauces, nor in the spoon‑sized servings that are sometimes offered by some designer‑food practitioners. We talked to Loiseau in the flower‑bedecked lounge of La Cote d'Or and were immediately captivated by this charming chef, with such exceptional competence and the logic of his culinary philosophy. "I got the idea of low‑fat cooking some years ago when my guests complained that they were putting on too much weight if they dined out," said Loiseau. He gave this some thought and, after himself taking off nearly 8 kilos, started to experiment with dishes that weren't loaded with calories, yet still tasted good. "I could see that people were becoming concerned about calories. Yet they still wanted a meal from which they would not rise hungry. I realized that we don't need to gorge our clients to death. " When asked what makes his cuisine different, Loiseau settled back and explained with great feeling that people today are concerned about their health and don't want to eat as much as they used to. Where cream, butter and flour are used in classic cooking, Loiseau replaces these with herbs, spices and vegetables that complement the seafood, poultry and other meat dishes. Rarely does one find a dish that does not contain a vegetable such as capsicum, onion, carrots or beans. And the recipes he creates, though seemingly radical in concept, are absolutely delicious. We tried Warm Escalope of Fois Gras, usually a very rich entrée. Here, with a rhubarb accompaniment, there was no feeling of heaviness. Other entrees were equally light and flavoursome. Fish lovers will enjoy an outstanding Sandre, presented with a very crispy skin and sitting on a bed of shallots and a red wine sauce. The combination was unusual and memorable. A Cote de Veau Fermier ( translated as free range veal), was the most tender veal I have ever had the pleasure of eating. Potatoes in a small side dish were wreathed in a creamy sauce, and a small salad was fragrant with the aroma of freshly pressed olive oil. This approach is typical of the Loiseau style. Desserts are another of Loiseau's strengths. He is known for his Millefeuille of Framboises with iced yoghurt , which was sensational, the flaky pastry crisp and barely warm, each raspberry perfect, the coulis loaded with flavor and the iced yoghurt just sweet enough to complement the whole. But I noticed many others in the dining room ordered a chocolate confection with thinner-than-thin leaves of chocolate biscuit in between scoops of chocolate mousse. It looked so tempting that we asked for a taste. Just spectacular! Like other great chefs, Loiseau will only use the freshest produce and buys this locally wherever possible. Each morning, neighboring growers and merchants deliver the meat and vegetables that will appear on his tables later that day. Apart from the fish, most of which comes from the Paris fish market, Loiseau tries to source everything else in Burgundy. "We get marvellous produce here," he said. "The symbol of Burgundy is the vineyard and wine takes priority over large‑scale farming in this area. So those farmers who produce meat, vegetables and other products tend to do this on a much more personalised scale. They have small farms that aim for quality rather than quantity. " The next day we were eager to try the spa facilities, described as a 'Space of well-being'. A small sparkling green-tiled pool with the latest in oxygen aeration turned out to be the perfect way to relax before starting one of the treatments. Choices ranged from sauna (dry heat), hammam (steam bath), face treatments from the Decleor range, to a number of body treatments, including wraps. The massage from a specially trained masseur is custom-tailored to each guest’s requirements. There is also an outdoor pool and lots of grassy space where one can sit in a comfortable lounge-chair and enjoy the fresh country air. Should you want a diversion from the luxurious surroundings, there are a number of day trips that are recommended. Beaune and the vineyards of Burgundy are about an hour away and so is Dijon, with its interesting collection of museums. Loiseau has not only refined the art of cooking, but has, in many cases, set new directions. For example, it has been until now almost impossible to get a vegetarian meal at most French three-Michelin-star restaurants. Bernard was the first of these chefs to introduce vegetarian dishes that were raised to the level of gourmet cuisine. On his carte he nightly offers a vegetarian menu, "Legumes en fete", which demonstrates the importance which he accords to vegetables and consisting of : Asparagus with vinaigrette and potatoes with truffle juice . . . A ragout of tiny peas and baby carrots , stuffed morille mushrooms with a 'broken egg', the cheese chariot and a dessert based on sweet 'pasta feuillantine' and Granny Smith apples His philosophy is radical in many other ways. He believes, for example, that each ingredient should keep its integrity wherever possible, rather than be drowned in sauces. "Only vegetables in perfect condition should be used, and then they must be cooked in such a way that they still maintain their appetizing aroma. Carrots must still smell like carrots when they are served, otherwise their full potential cannot be enjoyed," he said. To dine at La Cote d'Or is a gastronomic experience that will long be remembered. To stay there for a few days, using this hotel, a member of the prestigious ‘Relais et Chateaux’, association, as a base to explore some of the loveliest parts of Burgundy, will be even better. The hotel's rooms are a superb combination of tradition, style and comfort. On our last day we started with breakfast on the sunny terrace overlooking the flower-scented garden. Steaming, aromatic coffee, a choice of four homemade jams, hot croissants, toasted homemade bread and farm‑fresh eggs were yet another treat. Little wonder then, that as we reluctantly returned to Paris, we couldn’t help envying the residents of that city who are within such easy reach of La Cote d'Or. RESOURCESHotel de la Cote
d'Or, 2 Rue d'Argentine, 21210 Saulieu, FRANCE Bernard Louiseau is the first chef in France to become a public company. He also operates three brilliant Paris restaurants: TANTE LOUISE: 41, Rue Biossy d’Angles – 75008 Paris. Ph: ++ 33 0 1 42 65 06 85 Fax: ++ 33 0 1 42 65 28 19 TANTE JEANNE: 116, Boulevard Pereire – 75017 Paris, Tel: ++ 33 0 1 42 80 88 68 Fax: ++ 33 0 1 47 66 53 02 TANTE MARGUERITE: 5, Rue de Bourgogne – 75007 Paris Tel: ++ 33 0 1 45 51 79 42 Fax: ++ 33 0 1 47 53 79 56 |
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