^TM

NYC: A Night at the Opera

By Karen Forrest

For the Metropolitan Opera, it was the 1,106th performance of  Puccini's La Boheme. For me, it was the first.

Act 1: A garret in the Latin Quarter - Paris, France....Rodolfo, a poet, and his fellow bohemians Marcello, an artist, Colline, a philosopher and Schaunard, a musician, are cold and starving. They have no money to pay the rent, or heat their living quarters. Rodolfo uses the pages from his latest drama to feed the stove, while his friends repair to the Cafe Momus. There is a knock at the door. Mimi enters.

The Metropolitan Opera House, commanding center stage at Lincoln Center, is the most exquisite performance venue I've ever encountered. Opulent was the word that kept running through my mind - I felt as if I'd entered a velvet-lined jewel box. The walls, stairs and seats are covered in red velour; the ceilings are burnished gold. And the lights! - magnificent crystal chandeliers, exploding in a starburst pattern, fill the entry foyer and the performance space.

The sparkly chandeliers were a gift from the republic of Austria, "as a symbol of gratitude which her people wish to express for the generous aid they received from the US during the trying years after W.W. II," according to a bronze wall plaque.

The lucky ticket holders in the orchestra section (where tickets can go for $1,000  on opening night) walked down the stairs to their seats. We, on the other hand, walked up and around, up and around, until we found our airy, balcony-level perch. These are among the less expensive seats - $60 - and I was afraid our view would be compromised. But the Met doesn't seem to have a bad seat in the house, although I would avoid the "Family Circle" section, even higher up than we were seated.

Mimi tells Rodolfo that her candle has gone out on the stairwell. She is frail, and coughing, and her hands are cold. As they get to know each other,  Rodolfo warms her hands as they talk. They quickly fall in love. Mimi and Rodolfo make their way to the Cafe Momus to meet Rodolfo's friends.

As the giant gold curtain parts, six crystal chandeliers that surround a huge chandelier in the center slowly recede towards the ceiling, fading to black. "I love the chandeliers; they're my favorite" the lady next to me said to her companion. The crowd acknowledges the conductor with applause; he in turn introduces the large orchestra. After each act, the curtain closes, but the performers come back on stage to accept "Bravos" from the crowd.

Act 11: The Cafe Momus. Mimi and Rodolfo meet their friends in the Latin Quarter. Marcello's former paramour, Musetta, comes to the cafe with a wealthy, older man but flirts with Marcello. She creates a ruse to send her lover away and falls into Marcello's arms.

La Boheme lasted three hours, which is considered one of the shorter operas. There were two 20-minute intermissions, which are needed to change the monumental sets between acts. The street scene in Act II must have included more than 100 performers; it was the most elaborate stage set I've ever seen. Patrons took advantage of the breaks to munch on smoked salmon sandwiches, washed down with $15 glasses of Veuve Cliquot champagne. Cognac, wine, beer, soft drinks and sweets are also available.

ACT III: A Toll Gate on the edge of Paris. Musetta, Marcello and Rodolfo are inside a nearby tavern when Mimi appears. Marcello hears her lament of Rodolfo's jealousy and her suggestion that she and Rodolfo part. Marcello asks her to leave as Rodolfo comes outside. He admits his love for Mimi, but fears his poverty will worsen her cough and faltering health.

The curtain opens on Act III with softly falling snow. The light from the tavern house casts an eerie light on the stage. The snow gradually stops, but as the lovers leave the stage the end of the act, a light snow has begun to fall again.

If you're wondering how I have such a good grasp of the storyline, it's due to the "Met Titles" program, introduced in 1995. Directly in front of your seat is a velour-covered railing with a readout, or simultaneous translation, of the performers' words. By pressing the red button to the right of the screen, you can follow the story word by word, or just let the music carry you along.

Act IV: The garret. The four bohemians are again in the garret when Musetta comes to tell them she has seen Mimi, who appears to be very ill. Rodolfo come to her aid, but there is no money for food or medicine. Musetta sells her earrings and Colline his overcoat to buy provisions, but it is too late. As Mimi and Rodolfo reminisce about their brief romance, Mimi lays her head down. Rodolfo thinks she is resting, but Schaunard sees that Mimi is gone. When Rodolfo realizes that Mimi has died, he throws his body over hers, calling her name....Mimi...Mimi...

By now, the audience is clapping, crying, yelling "Bravo!" The performers again take their bows, as does the conductor and the orchestra. I wondered why I have never taken this trip before...up the velvety stairs to the top of the world, seated in the heavens, listening to music and voices fill the rarefied air of the Metropolitan Opera House.

Not wanting to dispel the magic of the performance, we found ourselves exploring some of the added attractions at the Met. There are showcases featuring costumes from past performances; other showcases include memorabilia such as Arturo Toscanini's watch, a Faberge parasol handle from La Traviata, Enrico Caruso's eyeglasses, and much more. The concourse level has an art gallery with paintings, photographs and sculpture. There is a huge Performing Arts Shop on the concourse level, as well as a gift shop on the entry level by the ticket windows. There is also a restaurant on the grand tier level.

The day after the performance, I found myself checking the Arts and Leisure section of The New York Times for upcoming shows. I've been told that Puccini's Madama Butterfly and Verdi's La Traviata are two other great operas for the novice opera fan. Lucky me...both have their season premieres in November. Bravo!

The Metropolitan Opera House is located at Lincoln Center between 62-65 Streets and Columbus and Amsterdam Avenues. From points north, take the West Side Highway to the West 79th Street exit. Go east on 79th Street to Broadway, turn right onto Broadway at 65th Street. Make a right on Columbus, follow it to West 62nd Street and make a right onto 62nd Street. The Lincoln Center parking garage is on the right.

To order tickets, call Met Ticket Service at (212) 362-6000 or online at www.metopera.org . Upcoming performances through February 16 include Idomeneo (Mozart) Madama Butterfly (Puccini) La Traviata (Verdi) and Die Meistersinger Von Nurnberg (Wagner). New productions include Luisa Miller (Verdi) and Die Frau Ohne Schatten (R. Strauss). A second series of performances begins February 18.

Ticket prices vary with section and day of performance; our balcony seats for a Saturday matinee were $60. Visibility was fine, but opera glasses (binoculars) are recommended. Tickets can be as low as $20 for a Family Circle box, although I wouldn't recommend anything cheaper that the balcony seats; it's too far up. The web site has a seating chart for reference. Tickets go fast, call as soon as you see then advertised or sign up for a series subscriptions for the best seating.

Photographs by Karen Forrest

Back to TravelLady Magazine