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D.C. – Beyond Its Monuments

By Belkis and Rob Kambach

Every year, tens of thousands of travelers pack their bags and set off to visit America’s center of government. There’s always something new to explore in our capital, but this time we’re bypassing the long lines to famous attractions in favor of D.C.’s great outdoors.

No matter how many times you’ve visited, there’s always something new to explore in our capital. With so much of the federal District now under cyclone-fence, it’s a great time to get a sense of the sights and sounds beyond the government-issue buildings and monuments.

When I proposed recently that we make a return trip to D.C., my husband bemoaned, Washington, D.C., again?  “But we’ve been there so many times!” Sure, since we live just an hour’s drive from the city we have waited in vast lines to see the major attractions and have heard all the standard guided tour spiels. But I assured Rob we wouldn’t be going that route again.

On our way into the city, we passed the Watergate complex, where a bungled break-in in 1972 marked the beginning of the end of Nixon’s presidency. More memorable to some, perhaps, the Watergate has also been home to Monica Lewinsky. However, without a thought of things politic, we drove right by and on to things more adventurous and less controversial. Our destination was the D.C. that is inhabited by people who reside there for more than four terms and the natural beauty that is often overshadowed by the might of the government.

Unlike New York, the streets are not overshadowed by cold, towering buildings. French Architect Pierre Charles L’Enfant eschewed the tall-is-best brashness of Chicago and New York for a more seemly neoclassical homage to Athens and Rome, banning any building over 130 feet. He built wide boulevards lined with trees and dappled its waterfront with cherry trees. White majestic marble and granite sit side by side in monuments of inspiring elegance. Olmstead gardens, handsome museums, and fragrant blossoms by the Potomac are spectacular to photograph. 

That first night in town, however, we sat sipping a latte at the George Hotel in a dimly lit bar among the gray-suited men and power-dressed women importantly conversing in muted tones. The terrace of the hotel’s French Bistro “Bis” provide perfect spots for people watching.

For dining, we have found that the largest oasis of Latin flavor between Miami and New York is without a doubt trendy Dupont Circle and, of course, upscale and historic Georgetown. We have also enjoyed the Woodley Park and Adams Morgan neighborhoods that offer some of the city’s most diverse dining options ranging from Cuban, Brazilian and Italian to Salvadoran, Ethiopian, Thai and Indian, all within easy walking distance. For Italian, though, look no further than Buca di Beppo –  we have rarely tasted better.

The next day we were rested and ready for our intended activity – exploring D.C. in the fresh air. The city offers a veritable smorgasbord for active sightseer and recreation enthusiasts. Here you can shed the heavy mantle of government and go biking, kayaking, hiking, rock climbing, wildlife viewing, and bird watching - all with capital-style views. This is a city of stunning natural beauty, and it’s almost a state secret to Washington visitors that some of the lesser known and less crowded outdoor sites are the frequently overlooked and underestimated natural treasures.

Bike the Sites

If you want to get into the heart of the city, but still play tourist, D.C. is a marvelous place to bike, with its wide streets and many of the important buildings within comfortable biking distance. Pedaling is a delightful and inexpensive way to see many historic sites and monuments.

After a glorious breakfast at the George, we ambled over to Bike The Sites, Inc. which offers daily guided bicycle tours of the city. Hybrid bicycles, helmets, water and a snack are provided on all tours.

We pedaled round the Halls of Power where we of course took in the most famous address in the world - The White House. It rose amid a swarm of helicopters headed over from the Pentagon and was surrounded by hoards of tourists.

Every marble pediment bristled with importance. Third President Thomas Jefferson in his Pantheon looks across the Tidal Basin to the White House while Daniel Chester French’s seated Lincoln sits staring towards the U.S. Capitol. Towering over everything is the restored, pencil-thin Washington Monument, the tallest obelisk in the World, with its two blinking eyes warning aircraft to steer clear.

The Mall is where 13 of Washington’s 17 Smithsonian museums camp. The National Air & Space Museum, dedicated to man’s adventures in space, is the most popular with 10 million visitors annually. Highlights include the Wright Brothers’ 1903 Flyer, Lindbergh’s Spirit of St. Louis, Apollo 13, moon rock you can touch and even astronaut food.

At the western end of The Mall stands the Korean War Memorial, adjacent to the Reflecting Pool. This striking group of sculptures depicting 19 soldiers standing in a battlefield is as impressive and heart-wrenching as the nearby Vietnam War Memorial where 58,218 dead are listed chronologically. The FDR memorial in West Potomac Park, made of red South Dakota granite, consists of four outdoor “gallery rooms” without ceilings representing each of FDR’s terms in office. Ten bronze sculptures of the President and Mrs. Roosevelt are displayed including a statue of himself in the small wheelchair he invented along side his faithful dog. The park-like setting is dramatic, with its shade trees, waterfalls, statuary and quiet alcoves creating the feeling of a secluded garden rather than an imposing structure.

Set your sites on

Biking towards the U.S. Capitol (more queues!) is by far more interesting than the White House for it is here, under the magnificent white dome, that senators and representatives meet to shape U.S. legislative policy. It is surrounded by a 68-acre park designed by Frederick Olmstead who also designed Central Park, Boston Commons, Golden Gate Park and Montreal’s Royal Park. 

The Library of Congress, the world’s largest library, is duly impressive with its mosaics, marble, and Tiffany glass roof exquisitely restored after a decade under wraps. It houses one of the world’s most treasured documents — one of only three perfect vellum copies of the Gutenberg Bible. The library originally housed Thomas Jefferson’s personal collection of 6,487 books.

Afterwards, we continued by gorgeous Victorian red brick buildings on Capitol Hill towards the stunningly restored Beaux Arts Union Station that contains over 125 shops, restaurants, a nine-screen cinema and one of the largest food courts on earth beneath a 96-foot barrel-vaulted ceiling gilded with gold leaf and 50 Constantine arches. Our lunch stop was scheduled on the Southwest Waterfront Phillips Flagship  where we rubbed padded shoulders with Washington’s politicos.

Just up the road, past a number of suspicious laboratories and a seized arsenal of 5,000 weapons, sits the FBI Headquarters with its equally long queue. You may have to wait up to three hours for their one-hour tour, which includes a live ammunition demonstration. You sit, hang-jawed, as Magnums, Smith & Wessons and 800-round-a-minute sub-machine guns pepper the heart out of a target to much whooping and hollering from the largely teenage audience.

Hike Rock Creek Park or walk with noted historians

Hike and explore one of the largest and finest city parks in the United States, where Washingtonians and visitors go to bike, jog, and horseback ride or play golf. Just venture a few steps off the beaten path, and you’ll discover a wonder of wildlife and plant life that most tourists never see.

We decided that when it was time to walk, we’d do it with noted historians who escort visitors through D.C.’s most colorful neighborhoods. The noted historian, author and tour guide Anthony Pitch escorted us through Adams-Morgan, with a dinner stop along the way. Many academicians make their homes here. Since the integration into the area of South Americans, Cubans, Thais and other nationalities, the eclectic and trendy neighborhood has become an active community for residents and visitors. Anthony offers a two-hour tour delving into the details of this interesting neighborhood, which has funky boutiques and more than 75 restaurants. The tour starts at the Wyoming apartment building.

Dine Like a Dignitary

Dining out is a principal recreation in D.C., and its numerous and varied cuisines make it a frequent destination for epicureans throughout the metropolitan area. Over the past decade, Washington has become much more of a restaurant town with innovative chefs and variety. Our own favorite, Tony and Joes, offers an eclectic southern menu.

For the most adventurous ethnic cuisine, try  Ethiopian (more Ethiopians live here than anywhere outside their own country). They’re knee-deep in the fashionable Adams-Morgan area where you’ll also find everything from Cuban to Ghanaian restaurants. Best is Dukem — we suggest you plump for the several-course set menu. Typical dishes are yebeg alicha - braised lamb seasoned with rosemary, ginger and jalapeño pepper and dero wat - chicken marinated in lemon juice and herbs and served with a red pepper sauce. The dishes are served on a large circular tray and you scoop them up with a soft bread.

Bike to Carderock

The next day it was back on the bikes for an exhilarating nine-plus mile ride on scenic paths and trails up the banks of the historic Chesapeake and Ohio Canal, from Georgetown to the towpath to Maryland’s Carderock on the Potomac River. The C&O Canal was once a coal and freight-carrying waterway that ran from the Georgetown docks along the Potomac and up and across the Appalachian Mountains to Cumberland, Maryland, 181 miles away. The area is crammed with breathtaking canals teeming with wildlife and unexpected places to relax. In disuse as a transportation artery since the 1920s, the canal is now a National Historical Park and draws more hikers, bikers and joggers to Georgetown than canal boats ever did.

Rock climbing Carderock’s Heights — Not Just for Superheroes 

Conquering his fear of rock climbing for the first time, Rob looked like Spiderman. My superhero’s arms were stretched out to each side, gripping the rough gray rock, his feet balanced below on ledges no wider than an inch. His face was so close that he must have been embracing its dusty mineral scent. He looked down to the left for a new foothold in order to advance his climb, concentrating heavily on the area of rock directly above his foot.

Our guide sensed his hesitation and offered encouragement. “That’s a great foothold, Rob,” the guide shouts from dozens of feet below, holding on to the rope that is somehow connected to his harness. “Go for it. I’ve got you.” The words inspire Rob enough to go for it.

Exhaling, now just a few more feet up the rock, he realizes he did it. A sense of accomplishment washes over him; he met his challenge and conquered a very real fear. Grinning, he turns his head to share his exuberance and to enjoy this grand view of dark green pine trees that dot the craggy reddish-brown rocks.

Rock climbing has become a widespread sport in this region. For Washingtonians and Virginians you can almost say it’s a religion.

After a re-energizing picnic at Carderock, we drove to Great Falls, the site of several abandoned gold mines and a popular local choice for hiking, rock climbing, bicycling and canoeing. We really enjoyed a close-up view of thrilling kayakers tackling the Potomac’s Great Falls. 

Kayaking Roosevelt Island

We ventured out on the Potomac in a kayak to Roosevelt Island, an 88-acre wilderness area sitting in the heart of Georgetown. We discovered a peaceful setting of solitude and contemplation without a lot of tourists.

On our last day in town we ventured out onto the Potomac in kayaks to the under-visited Roosevelt Island, where docks act as a buffer to the busy streets of Georgetown and offer a peaceful setting of solitude and contemplation. It is said that during the war the legendary 54th Massachusetts Infantry, the all-black regiment made famous again in the movie Glory, trained on Mason’s Island, now called Roosevelt Island.

 I finally had the opportunity to “sit back,” leave the paddling to someone else and really view the city. In the 19th Century, the Georgetown elite lived uphill and away from the waterfront, which was significantly malodorous. Though the water’s cleaner the same is largely true today. We had brunch at Sequoia on K at Washington Harbor where we devoured the best Maryland crab cakes in town while watching strollers go by. After nearly hour, we returned to base camp, satisfied. Not only had we seen Washington’s best known sights, this trip we also gained more understanding of its hidden treasures.

The nation’s capital is loaded with awe-inspiring attractions, magnificent museums, top-notch entertainment, first-class accommodations, enticing shopping, and award-winning dining. However, there is also a wonderful world to be discovered outside. When you visit the nation’s capital — whether for the first time or the 10th — there are scores of fresh-air pleasures to be found. These options make D.C. not only a treasure to discover, but also a fun and affordable vacation for the entire family.

D.C. Basics

For more information, contact the Washington, D.C. Convention & Visitors Association, 1212 New York Ave. NW, Suite 600, Washington, D.C. 20005; 789-7000

Where to stay

Try to stay at The George on 15 E Street WWW.HotelGeorge.com (202)347-4200.  Outside the peak September, October months, hotels will invariably do deals, particularly at weekends.

Getting around

Guided Walking Tours of Washington by Anthony Pitch (301 294 9514) runs two-hours. Bike the Sites Inc (202 966 8662) has daily guided three-hour cycle tours of 55 historic DC landmarks. Use the efficient Metro or one Day Pass unlimited travel

Where to eat

Sequoia 3000 K St., NW Washington, DC  20007 (202) 944-4200 Phillips Flagship  900 Water St., SW Washington, DC  20024  (202) 488-8515 Buca di Beppo 1825 Connecticut Ave., NW Washington, DC  20009 (202) 232-8466

Free things to do in Washington, D.C.

U.S. CAPITOL Capitol South Metro. National Mall PENTAGON Pentagon Metro. Arlington, Va.  BUREAU OF ENGRAVING AND PRINTING 14th and C St. SW FBI HEADQUARTERS Archives Metro. I. Edgar Hoover Bldg., Pennsylvania Ave. SUPREME COURT First St. and Maryland Ave. THE U.S. NATIONAL ARBORETUM 3501 New York Ave. N. NATIONAL ZOO Woodley Park Metro. 3001 Connecticut Ave. NW.  ARLINGTON NATIONAL CEMETERY Arlington, Va. ---accessible via Arlington Cemetery Metro; Iwo Jima closer to Rosslyn Metro JEFFERSON MEMORIAL Tidal Basin, south end of 15th St. SW. WASHINGTON MONUMENT National Mall at 15th St. NW. 

WHITE HOUSE www.whitehouse.gov  The Convention and Visitor bureaus www.washington.org  The Library of Congress www.lcweb.loc.gov/homepage  www.washingtonpost.com AIR AND SPACE MUSEUM www.nasm.edu/galleries 

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