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Especially Now, Don't Cry For Me, ArgentinaBy Marguerite Jordan
THREE IMPORTANT ICONS: EVITA, TANGO & GAUCHO Even without having visited Argentina, Americans are already familiar with the three cultural icons most associated with this vigorous country: Evita, the Tango and the Gaucho. Try as you might, there is almost no place in Buenos Aires that you can visit without reference to these sexy symbols.
In death, Evita has assumed cult popularity. Americans became acquainted with her "story," perhaps, through first the rock opera by Tim Rice and Lloyd Webber and then the movie by Alan Parker, Evita, which starred Madonna. (Most Argentineans I spoke to feel this is not a true story. It does however give some insight into the glamorous former first lady so closely associated with the working classes of the capital city.) When her husband Juan Peron assumed dictatorial power, she frequently appeared with him on the balcony of the Casa Rosado, the Government House that overlooks the Plaza de Mayo, before thousands of supporters. Here in the in the heart of the downtown square you will still see marches and demonstrations, although you are even more likely to see grandmothers with their young charges feeding the pigeons or buying souvenirs in the expansive square.
Walk around the Plaza de Mayo and see the balcony from which Evita often appeared. Take the tour of the Teatro Colon to see where Evita and Juan used to sit in this beautiful opera house. Elsewhere too various statues and plaques commemorate her presence in this town that loves a stylish lady.
THE PORT AND THE RIVERS SHAPED THE CITY
Even the name "Buenos Aires" has a reference to the sea, for it is the nearness to water that gave the town its "Good Air." Residents of the city are called ‘Portenos’, and the waterfront is still today an important part of town, with its active port and a re-vitalised dock region. Old warehouse buildings have been smartly redone, now housing many upscale restaurants, shops and apartments.
Just adjacent to the revitalized area, near an unused part of the dock area are dozens and dozens of badly rusted ships, some listing badly, others nearly submerged; it is called the Graveyard of Ships, and is a veritable history of the cargo industry. TANGO AND THE ITALIAN CONNECTION
As the story of the origin of Tango goes, on Saturday nights, at the end of a grueling work week, loading and unloading the ships that came from all over the world, the men had not much to do but drink, listen to music and socialize. Being Italian, music was an important part of their entertainment, and so there developed kind of slow-dancing, men with men, that eventually became the Tango of today.
I never got tired of seeing the paintings and murals of tango dancers, found as graffiti on walls and oils in pricey boutiques and open air stalls. In La Boca which features brightly painted wooden houses lining the Riachuelo waterway, the most colorful part of town, I met a talented Basque artist, Nestor Reynoso. Now a long-time Porteno, he paints such perfect images of Tango dancers and Gauchos that I wanted to buy everything he had to sell.
STEP OUT INTO THE COUNTRYSIDE TO SEE THE REAL GAUCHOS The Pampas, as Reynoso explained to me, is the flat and fertile grass-growing region of several provinces: Buenos Aires, La Pampas and parts of Santa Fe and Cordoba. Argentina’s world-famous cattle and horses roam here under the watchful eyes of the Gauchos. Wildlife includes flamingos, puma, hares, and a type of chinchilla. Travelers will also find salt lakes and forested hills.
CONTACT INFORMATION AND TRIP PLANNINGBooks to read before you go: Labyrinths and A Universal History of Infamy, Jorge
Luis Borges. Movies to see: Evita INTERCONTINENTAL HOTEL Several different categories of hotels
are to be found in Argentina, including at least four that are run by Six
Continents Hotels. They range from good comfort (Holiday Inn Express) to
great luxury, Hotel InterContinental. Find the one that best suits you at: Contact the artist, Nestor Reynoso
nestor_reynoso@uol.com.ar Lan-Chile Airlines To visit an Estancia, contact: Sr. Miguel Angel Abate MAY YOU TRAVEL IN INTERESTING TIMESIf you are the kind of traveler who lives by the mantra, "May you live in interesting times," then surely this is the time for you to visit Argentina. While there are no guarantees about travel safety anywhere, I did feel comfortable walking the streets of Buenos Aires, and I certainly long to return to see the many other parts of the country. If you decide to take advantage of the lowered prices on travel, hotels, restaurants, then book away. But, first, read the statements issued by the US State Department. http://travel.state.gov/argentina.html SAFETY AND SECURITY: Though in recent years there have been occasional instances of small explosive devices placed outside businesses identified with the United States or other foreign countries, there is no evidence of terrorist organizations or violent groups in Argentina which specifically target U.S. visitors. Individuals and organizations with ties to extremist groups operate in Ciudad del Este, Paraguay and along the tri-border area between Brazil, Paraguay and Argentina. Americans crossing into Paraguay or Brazil in that area may wish to consult the most recent Consular Information Sheets for those countries. Both planned and spontaneous demonstrations and protests sometimes inconvenience or delay travelers throughout Argentina. These may include blocking streets and highways, which cause sporadic travel delays, including getting to and from airports. Though demonstrations are usually nonviolent, U.S. citizens should take common-sense precautions and avoid gatherings or any other event where crowds have congregated to protest. Information about the location of possible demonstrations is available from several sources, including the local media. Additional information and advice may be obtained from the U.S. Embassy at the telephone numbers or email address listed below. Text and Images © by Marguerite Jordan |
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"Don’t cry for me,
Argentina," is a song line I’ve always loved, but I was surprised to hear it
coming from the lips of the Minister of Tourism recently at a meeting in
Buenos Aires. 
I joined a group of visiting writers who were
asking him about the country’s financial problems. We expressed concerns
that political unrest, especially in the capital, might make independent
travelers a little wary. We had all seen the news photographs of thousands
of Argentineans lined up outside their banks.
The Minister
went to great lengths to assure us that Argentina, while facing some
problems, is ready willing and able to make a visit to Argentina one of the
best you will ever have, anywhere. "It is very safe here," he said.
"We do have demonstrations, but I don’t believe they are anything a tourist
has to worry about. We have the numerous sights of one of the world’s most
beautiful cities. There is a great infrastructure: the hotels, the
restaurants, tours, transportation and connections to the outlying
provinces. And we have some of the finest natural scenery you will see
anywhere in the world. Because of our current weak financial situation, the
airlines and places of accommodation are cutting their prices drastically."
He remarked that Argentina’s temporary misfortune makes it a boon for the
visiting tourist.
"Right now, I have no tears, only good wishes that Americans
will come and visit our beautiful country."
The first, Evita, Maria Eva Duarte de Peron, she whose life
and style led to the famous tagline of the song, "Don’t Cry for Me,
Argentina", led an amazing, though short, life. Evita grew up in the country
dirt poor and then ran away to Buenos Aires at the age of 14 to try to
become an actress. At the age of 24, she married Juan Perón, age 48. Before
he was elected in 1946, he was a relatively unknown colonel who attracted
nationalist and working class voters. The poor especially admired Evita, at
his side. She died of cancer at the age of 41.
Around the Plaza are other important buildings, the Cabildo,
the National Bank and the Cathedral, where you may visit the tomb of José de
San Martín, a hero of Argentina's struggle for independence.
There are many specialty city tours that include other sites
where she was known to appear. And of course, it is de rigueur to visit her
grave in the fabulously interesting Ricoleta Cemetery, where anyone who was
anything is buried. Flowers and little notes adorn the space before her
stone.
Although Buenos Aires is well known for its European-influenced architecture
and its broad mega-avenues, it is first and foremost a coastal city. It is
defined by its port and the rivers that lead out to the Atlantic Ocean. The
Rio de la Plata has six tributaries, including the Parana, the Uruguay and
the Paraguay.
Argentineans love to see and be seen, and of course they
enjoy the many Italian restaurants and cafes, as well as the traditional
style Argentinean restaurants, which feature beef, in all its magnificent
cuts. One place on the waterfront that serves both is Happenings, which is a
beautifully crafted dining room and bar that attracts a lively crowd.
Down by the
waterfront lived the first Italian immigrants. Many an Italian male came to
this poor area, in search of work on the docks. If the men were lucky enough
to find employment, they worked 12 to 15 hours a day, saving for the time
when they could afford to bring their families over to live with them.
Images of the
modern Tango – beautiful women and handsome men -- are everywhere, but
especially in La Boca and San Telmo, both great areas to stroll and look for
people performing in the street. You can see the dancers themselves, at many
venues. (See "Sensuous South America"
Reynoso and other street artists display their work in the
open air, all the while painting and working on new pictures. His
grandchildren and their friends run around and play in the streets, which
are largely pedestrianised. La Boca plays homage to the Italians who settled
here. Corrugated tin houses, painted gold and red and blue are as bright as
anything you might see in Genoa or Naples on Italy’s West Coast.
In this agriculturally rich region, large ranches called
Estancias often open up their doors to tourists. Many of the ranches were
built by wealthy families around the end of the1800’s. A stay at one of
these places would include horse riding and exploring the small towns,
museums, churches and faded colonial buildings. Certainly this would be the
place to try the country’s best beef dishes. To visualise the Gaucho’s life,
read the "Voyage of the Beagle" by the explorer and geneticist Charles
Darwin.
To get the most out of your trip, put yourself in the
hands of companies that specialize in Argentina, such as Six Continents
Hotels. This group includes Inter-Continental, Holiday Inn, and Crowne
Plaza, all well maintained and located near tourist attractions. They, the
tourist boards of the various cities and regions, and your travel agent can
all help you create the perfect no-tears vacation in Argentina.