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Superior Colors in Canada's North

By Daryl T. Adair

Let us face it; there are two types of guys, those who like road transportation cars, trucks etc and those who like rail transportation locomotives, freight cars and so on.  That is why when those of us in the latter category need to book a vacation package that is pleasing to our masculine side yet still an experience that will be thoroughly enjoyed by our wives and girlfriends.  No small task indeed. 

Starting from Canada’s largest city of Toronto, Ontario, last October, our group with but Rail Travel Tours vacation package Superior Colors of Ontario assembled on a Thursday morning in the city’s Union Station avoiding the commuters rushing through the station to get to work.  Then as the steady stream of commuters had slowed to a trickle it was time to board VIA Rail Canada’s transcontinental train the Canadian and the group made their way to the departure escalator up to track level and find the commuter trains had all but disappeared leaving a train of classic aluminum clad passenger cars from the 1950’s, but extensively refurbished in the 1990’s being readied to depart for Vancouver, BC.

Our group was not headed as far as Vancouver so we walked past the sleeper cars to the front of the train to take our spots in the front coach and a few guys took the opportunity to photograph the engines that headed up our train, while the remainder of wives and girlfriends on the tour were content to settle into their seats.  Shortly after, with all on board the train, we watched the office towers fade from the distance as we headed north through suburbs. 

With the suburbs giving way to rolling hills and farm country, members of the group made their way to the dome car to take in the view.  Cameras were never far away to take pictures of the long train behind us snaking around the hills.  Before reaching Ontario’s Muskoka region there is a call for lunch and hungry members of the group scramble down the stairs of the dome to enjoy the lunch selections available.  The special, our dinning car maitre de informs us, is a Chicken Caesar Salad but the menu features a Buffalo Burger that intrigues me and is almost as impressive and as large as the rugged scenery of the Canadian Shield passes outside the windows of the dining car. 

Getting off the train at our destination of Capreol, we were embraced by the crisp fall northern air to walk length of the train to the station before crossing the town’s main street to the M&R Grill where dinner was prepared for us this evening.  A couple guys are quick to grab the seats in the front where a picture window looks out to the rail line to see the train; we were on, departing for Vancouver.  After enjoying the home cooked meals they prepared, the group transferred by bus to the heart of the City of Sudbury, and the Quality Inn.

After breakfast on Friday the group boards a bus to transfer to Science North and explore its numerous displays and science activities before lunch is enjoyed at the Landings restaurant, which is part of the centre and overlooks Lake Ramsey.  Returning to the hotel in the early afternoon, some go shopping, enjoy the pool or go railfaning outside the CPR/VIA Rail station which the hotel overlooks.  Later that evening the group is entertained by historian Dale Wilson who presents a selection of slides of railway scenes in and around Sudbury and we learn more about the community’s railroad history from the steam era to today. 

In the hotel lobby on Saturday morning you could sense that everyone was excited to experience one of the last Rail Diesel Car services in North America, VIA Rail’s Lake Superior.  Self propelled rail transportation this type of service, many may remember, were common in the 1950’s and 1960’s as North America’s rail travellers dwindled as they chose to fly or travel in their own car on the interstate highways. Today this is one of three services of this type that remains in Canada and the only passenger train, with the exception of the Rocky Mountaineer, which operates in the Canadian Pacific Railway Mainline.

After walking the two short blocks from the hotel to the station, here the group had the pleasure of meeting the train’s conductor Mr. James Cockburn.  He informs the group today would be the first time that all three cars used on this service since their recent major overhauled would again travel together.  The considerable amount of work on the cars was on their electrical systems and their interiors that now feature new seats and a light blue interior, replacing the former VIA red colored interior.  According to Mr. Cockburn the cars are a “breath of fresh air” and have been well received by all the passengers who regularly ride the train.  The group is quick to find their seats in the lead car and all that was left was for  Mr. Cockburn to yell “All Aboard” and we were on our way moving west through Sudbury. 

Continuing our journey through northern Ontario we are put into the siding at Devon, to await an eastbound train.  Nobody seems to mind as one of the engineers and baggage man has come back to mingle with the group and talk about their job and explain what it is like to drive the Budd cars and work for the Canadian Pacific Railway. As well, the tracks divide Loon Lake and there are picturesque scenes to both the north and to the south.  After a short delay, The freight train moving at track speed roars past our train and we receive permission to continue to Chapleau, only a few miles away.

In Chapleau the original station is long gone but there is still a monument to the CPR in this community that owes its existence to the railroad.  During our extended stop everyone has time to stretch their legs in Centennial Park, adjacent to the modern station, to view preserved CPR Steam locomotive No. 5433.  Once this is done there are a few moments to visit the Chapleau museum, also in the park, before boarding the train and departing Chapleau for the last stretch of track to our destination, White River.

After a time, with Mr. Cockburn keeping everyone entertained with stories about the stretch of track we traveled, lights can be seen outside our windows as the train approaches White River’s two-story brick station.  On hand to meet us is the Mayor of White River Angelo Bazzoni, who welcomes our group before we walk to the White River Seniors Harmony Club centre. Here the seniors of this club have prepared a fantastic supper for our group consisting of three different types of chicken, lasagna, scalloped potatoes, salads, greens and an almost endless amount of desert items.   Keys to the Continental Motel are distributed among the group and many, after thanking the ladies of the seniors club for the wonderful dinner, walk to the hotel while others are shuttled by local people to the hotel to collapse in bed after an exciting but long day on the rails. 

The next morning the group visited the White River Museum, where volunteers told us more about the areas rail history and learn more about the community’s most famous former resident, Winnie the Pooh.  It was here that Captain Harry Colebourn while traveling on the CPR from his hometown of Winnipeg to an army camp and from there to the battlefields of World War 1 purchased a bear cub that became famous after A.A. Milne’s children stories.  The orphaned bear was purchased while Mr. Colebourn stretched his leg along the platform here in White River and the same platform today found our group loading up and awaiting our departure. 

Not long after departing White River, which is known for once recording minus 72 degrees Fahrenheit, the rain turns to heavy snow.  Everyone on the tour are enjoying the fall snow thoroughly, especially the photographers, as they get great pictures where the tracks cross the White River.  After the sun goes down there is a surprise.  We find out that fellow travelers Michael and Jan Gauthier are taking the trip to celebrate a one year wedding anniversary and a cake is sneaked on board the train at Chapleau.  After a few words from the happy couple everyone on the train enjoys the cake and we arrive Sudbury a while later.

Monday morning the group checked out of the Quality Inn and headed north returning to Capreol.  This time there was ample time to visit the Northern Ontario RR Museum.  Here museum volunteers were on hand to break our group up into smaller groups for guided tours of the numerous displays including the adjacent Prescott Park to view steam locomotive CNR 6077 and other restored equipment.  This offered an excellent opportunity for everyone to assemble to take a group picture in front of the large CNR steam locomotive that once worked the mainline it stands beside before thanking the great museum volunteers for showing us a great time. 

Although the sun was shinning it was a cool outside but nothing a visit to the M&R Grill with their warm hospitality and a hot bowl of soup could not fix.  After thanking them for another fine meal the group crossed the street and piled into the modern Capreol station. We said our goodbyes to Dale Wilson and James Cockburn, who joined us for the morning, as the VIA Rail’s eastbound Canadian arrived.   After departing Capreol we enjoyed the fall colours for the remainder of the day traveling south to Toronto and the majority of the group took part in a farewell dinner in the dinning car and later arrived Toronto right on time, thus ending our memorable journey for the guys and gals who enjoyed the experience and fall colors of northern Ontario.

Rail Travel Tours offers guided group tours on the VIA Rail Canada System and can be contacted about this journey above and their many specialized guided tours at the information below.

CONTACT:

Rail Travel Tours
Box 44 123 Main Street
Winnipeg MB, Canada
R3C 1A3
Phone: 1-866-704-3528
Fax: (204) 897-9572
http://www.railtraveltours.com

All photos, courtesy Rail Travel Tours

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