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Superior Colors in Canada's North
By Daryl T. Adair
Let us face it; there are two types of guys, those who
like road transportation cars, trucks etc and those who like rail
transportation locomotives, freight cars and so on. That is why when those
of us in the latter category need to book a vacation package that is
pleasing to our masculine side yet still an experience that will be
thoroughly enjoyed by our wives and girlfriends. No small task indeed.
Starting from Canada’s largest city of Toronto,
Ontario, last October, our group with but Rail Travel Tours vacation package
Superior Colors of Ontario assembled on a Thursday morning in the city’s
Union Station avoiding the commuters rushing through the station to get to
work. Then as the steady stream of commuters had slowed to a trickle it was
time to board VIA Rail Canada’s transcontinental train the Canadian
and the group made their way to the departure escalator up to track level
and find the commuter trains had all but disappeared leaving a train of
classic aluminum clad passenger cars from the 1950’s, but extensively
refurbished in the 1990’s being readied to depart for Vancouver, BC.
Our group was not headed as far as Vancouver so we
walked past the sleeper cars to the front of the train to take our spots in
the front coach and a few guys took the opportunity to photograph the
engines that headed up our train, while the remainder of wives and
girlfriends on the tour were content to settle into their seats. Shortly
after, with all on board the train, we watched the office towers fade from
the distance as we headed north through suburbs.
With the suburbs giving way to rolling hills and farm
country, members of the group made their way to the dome car to take in the
view. Cameras were never far away to take pictures of the long train behind
us snaking around the hills. Before reaching Ontario’s Muskoka region there
is a call for lunch and hungry members of the group scramble down the stairs
of the dome to enjoy the lunch selections available. The special, our
dinning car maitre de informs us, is a Chicken Caesar Salad but the menu
features a Buffalo Burger that intrigues me and is almost as impressive and
as large as the rugged scenery of the Canadian Shield passes outside the
windows of the dining car.
Getting
off the train at our destination of Capreol, we were embraced by the crisp
fall northern air to walk length of the train to the station before crossing
the town’s main street to the M&R Grill where dinner was prepared for us
this evening. A couple guys are quick to grab the seats in the front where
a picture window looks out to the rail line to see the train; we were on,
departing for Vancouver. After enjoying the home cooked meals they
prepared, the group transferred by bus to the heart of the City of Sudbury,
and the Quality Inn.
After breakfast on Friday the group boards a bus to
transfer to Science North and explore its numerous displays and science
activities before lunch is enjoyed at the Landings restaurant, which is part
of the centre and overlooks Lake Ramsey. Returning to the hotel in the
early afternoon, some go shopping, enjoy the pool or go railfaning outside
the CPR/VIA Rail station which the hotel overlooks. Later that evening the
group is entertained by historian Dale Wilson who presents a selection of
slides of railway scenes in and around Sudbury and we learn more about the
community’s railroad history from the steam era to today.
In the hotel lobby on Saturday morning you could sense
that everyone was excited to experience one of the last Rail Diesel Car
services in North America, VIA Rail’s Lake Superior. Self propelled
rail transportation this type of service, many may remember, were common in
the 1950’s and 1960’s as North America’s rail travellers dwindled as they
chose to fly or travel in their own car on the interstate highways. Today
this is one of three services of this type that remains in Canada and the
only passenger train, with the exception of the Rocky Mountaineer, which
operates in the Canadian Pacific Railway Mainline.
After
walking the two short blocks from the hotel to the station, here the group
had the pleasure of meeting the train’s conductor Mr. James Cockburn. He
informs the group today would be the first time that all three cars used on
this service since their recent major overhauled would again travel
together. The considerable amount of work on the cars was on their
electrical systems and their interiors that now feature new seats and a
light blue interior, replacing the former VIA red colored interior.
According to Mr. Cockburn the cars are a “breath of fresh air” and have been
well received by all the passengers who regularly ride the train. The group
is quick to find their seats in the lead car and all that was left was for
Mr. Cockburn to yell “All Aboard” and we were on our way moving west through
Sudbury.
Continuing our journey through northern Ontario we are
put into the siding at Devon, to await an eastbound train. Nobody seems to
mind as one of the engineers and baggage man has come back to mingle with
the group and talk about their job and explain what it is like to drive the
Budd cars and work for the Canadian Pacific Railway. As well, the tracks
divide Loon Lake and there are picturesque scenes to both the north and to
the south. After a short delay, The freight train moving at track speed
roars past our train and we receive permission to continue to Chapleau, only
a few miles away.
In
Chapleau the original station is long gone but there is still a monument to
the CPR in this community that owes its existence to the railroad. During
our extended stop everyone has time to stretch their legs in Centennial
Park, adjacent to the modern station, to view preserved CPR Steam locomotive
No. 5433. Once this is done there are a few moments to visit the Chapleau
museum, also in the park, before boarding the train and departing Chapleau
for the last stretch of track to our destination, White River.
After a time, with Mr. Cockburn keeping everyone
entertained with stories about the stretch of track we traveled, lights can
be seen outside our windows as the train approaches White River’s two-story
brick station. On hand to meet us is the Mayor of White River Angelo
Bazzoni, who welcomes our group before we walk to the White River Seniors
Harmony Club centre. Here the seniors of this club have prepared a fantastic
supper for our group consisting of three different types of chicken,
lasagna, scalloped potatoes, salads, greens and an almost endless amount of
desert items. Keys to the Continental Motel are distributed among the
group and many, after thanking the ladies of the seniors club for the
wonderful dinner, walk to the hotel while others are shuttled by local
people to the hotel to collapse in bed after an exciting but long day on the
rails.
The next morning the group visited the White River
Museum, where volunteers told us more about the areas rail history and learn
more about the community’s most famous former resident, Winnie the Pooh. It
was here that Captain Harry Colebourn while traveling on the CPR from his
hometown of Winnipeg to an army camp and from there to the battlefields of
World War 1 purchased a bear cub that became famous after A.A. Milne’s
children stories. The orphaned bear was purchased while Mr. Colebourn
stretched his leg along the platform here in White River and the same
platform today found our group loading up and awaiting our departure.
Not
long after departing White River, which is known for once recording minus 72
degrees Fahrenheit, the rain turns to heavy snow. Everyone on the tour are
enjoying the fall snow thoroughly, especially the photographers, as they get
great pictures where the tracks cross the White River. After the sun goes
down there is a surprise. We find out that fellow travelers Michael and Jan
Gauthier are taking the trip to celebrate a one year wedding anniversary and
a cake is sneaked on board the train at Chapleau. After a few words from
the happy couple everyone on the train enjoys the cake and we arrive Sudbury
a while later.
Monday morning the group checked out of the Quality Inn
and headed north returning to Capreol. This time there was ample time to
visit the Northern Ontario RR Museum. Here museum volunteers were on hand
to break our group up into smaller groups for guided tours of the numerous
displays including the adjacent Prescott Park to view steam locomotive CNR
6077 and other restored equipment. This offered an excellent opportunity
for everyone to assemble to take a group picture in front of the large CNR
steam locomotive that once worked the mainline it stands beside before
thanking the great museum volunteers for showing us a great time.
Although
the sun was shinning it was a cool outside but nothing a visit to the M&R
Grill with their warm hospitality and a hot bowl of soup could not fix.
After thanking them for another fine meal the group crossed the street and
piled into the modern Capreol station. We said our goodbyes to Dale Wilson
and James Cockburn, who joined us for the morning, as the VIA Rail’s
eastbound Canadian arrived. After departing Capreol we enjoyed the
fall colours for the remainder of the day traveling south to Toronto and the
majority of the group took part in a farewell dinner in the dinning car and
later arrived Toronto right on time, thus ending our memorable journey for
the guys and gals who enjoyed the experience and fall colors of northern
Ontario.
Rail Travel Tours offers guided group tours on the VIA
Rail Canada System and can be contacted about this journey above and their
many specialized guided tours at the information below.
CONTACT:
Rail Travel Tours
Box 44 123 Main Street
Winnipeg MB, Canada
R3C 1A3
Phone: 1-866-704-3528
Fax: (204) 897-9572
http://www.railtraveltours.com
All photos, courtesy Rail Travel Tours
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