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Slummin’ on Shasta

Great resorts, fewer boaters and an endless choice of coves
make Shasta Lake a smart fall destination

By Patricia Kutza 

After having climbed more steps than Imelda has shoes, we finally arrived at the door of our cabin.  With a big sigh of relief, my husband opened the door and we tumbled inside.

Still grasping for air but now sporting an ear-to-ear grin, he read a wall plaque placed very strategically within eyesight:  “Fishing, hunting, golfing…What else is there?”

We knew then that we had found a place of kindred spirits, Antler’s Resort, located on the very tip of  one of Shasta Lakes’ ‘octopus’ arms in northern California.

We had Shasta on our mind for months.  The ‘when-we-should-go’ was where our minds diverged.    I operate better in cooler temps:  the lower 80s’ is about my comfort limit.  (This is also true for my husband although he will tell you that he can tolerate higher temps.)    We finally decided on a late September trip in order to avoid the summer crush of boaters, hoping that the Indian summer temperatures, so brutal in these parts, had made their last hurrah.

We got part of our wish.  Most of the summer crowd was gone.  But during that final September week, the sun was having its way with Northern California and taking its time.   In fact it had been doing that for much of the summer.  With boat in tow we arrived at the Lake, and encountered water levels a full 70 feet below normal.  Fortunately we had the presence of mind to contact the local Chamber of Commerce  (Redding) prior to going.  They advised us to launch at Packers Bay Marina, a convenient spot located within a couple miles of Interstate-5, the main highway that intersects  the Lake at several locations.

Imagine a 500ft teeter-totter stuck in the highest position.  This is what Packer’s launch ramp resembled, our first reminder of the tradeoffs of fall boating..  In 100+ degree weather we didn’t have to wait in line (the smarter boaters were already under shade).  We would discover later as we saw smaller launching sites in the least traveled Arms, that, despite its considerable length, the Packers Bay launch is a smarter choice for larger boats. 

From Packers Bay, Antlers is a very doable reach, say 25 minutes with an experienced crew.  We were eager but not experienced.  Eagerness and a pretty map help but not when it comes to interpreting all the contours of this largest of all California manmade lakes.  Shasta Lake boasts  30,000 surface acres and  after 45 minutes of circling  in and  out of endless coves, we felt there was the distinct possibility that without further guidance we might inadvertently cover most of it.  We resorted to querying fellow boaters.  Fortunately this is a houseboater’s mecca and our questions intercepted their slow pace.  Their responses were all the same:  Just trust your compass and continue to head north!

Now following their directions in earnest, Antler’s Resort sign finally appeared.  Where’s the cabins, I thought?  As if in unison we both discovered another consequence of receding water levels:  There they are…at the top of that enormous hill!  (We made a mental note to return in the rainy season.).

Antlers’ is by no means  the only resort in this region, but its secluded location and wide range of rental houseboats, and regular boats (ski, fishing, patio and canoe) makes it an  attractive and versatile destination.  It is also located near I-5 and we later noticed that had we continued north on I-5, we could have exited very close to Antler’s own launch ramp.

Shasta’s impressive variety of fish, count 16 species!, was on my husband’s mind.  Our initial sense of feeling overwhelmed by its vastness dissipated quickly.     We were eager to get our share of its legendary bounty of trout, bass, catfish, bluegill, perch, crappie and kokanee salmon.

The fishing brochures can sure cast a spell but there’s nothing like word-of-mouth to pump a fisherman full of giddy anticipation.  Our neighbor bragged about catching some killer-size bass in the Pit River Arm of Shasta.  Needless to say, it was Pit River or bust.

The Pit River Arm stretches way east, giving us the opportunity to once again test our navigation skills.  Reminiscent of many mountain lakes, the coves are full of broken tree stumps, offering good hiding places for bass but also treacherous possibilities for disastrous encounters with our prop.  We trolled for a few hours and then decided to see what the McCloud River Arm has to offer.

Like siblings of one large family, the ‘Arms’ of Shasta Lake all have unique characteristics.  We thought McCloud’s coves were particularly scenic, with good views of Mt. Shasta at several locations.  While the Sacramento Arm sports the greatest concentration of resorts, each of the Arms has an assortment of resorts, campgrounds and hiking areas.  We anchored at Greens Creek.  Its large stretch of flat rolling ground offered a nice respite from the rocky frontage  that covers most of Shasta’s 370  mile shoreline.

While we spent most of our time navigating all the Arms, it was nice to return to our spacious Antler cabin, a studio that included full kitchenette facilities.  Serving the small clusters of cabins (studio up to three bedroom) are two swimming pools and Jacuzzis.  I spent the better part of one night cooling my body in its waters while reveling in the panoply of stars overhead.

We would spend the better part of that week angling for fish.  They had the last say though.  Hot temperatures drive them to the depths and at Shasta Lake, you’re talking 160 feet easy.  Ever the diplomat my husband philosophized:  “We let ‘em off the hook this time.”  He doesn’t like to take ‘no’ for an answer so there’s a very good chance we will be back to get ‘em next year.

Contact Information:

Antlers Resort & Marina, Inc.
P.O. Box 140,
Lakehead, CA  96051
(530) 238-2553
(800) 238-3924
Fax (530) 238-2340
www.shastalakevacations.com

Redding Convention and Visitors Bureau
777 Auditorium Drive
Redding, California 96001
(800) 874-7562

Images by Patricia Kutza

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