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Slummin’ on Shasta
Great resorts, fewer boaters and an endless choice of
coves
make Shasta Lake a smart fall destination
By Patricia Kutza
After having
climbed more steps than Imelda has shoes, we finally arrived at the door of
our cabin. With a big sigh of relief, my husband opened the door and we
tumbled inside.
Still grasping for air but now sporting an ear-to-ear
grin, he read a wall plaque placed very strategically within eyesight:
“Fishing, hunting, golfing…What else is there?”
We knew then that we had found a place of kindred
spirits, Antler’s Resort, located on the very tip of one of Shasta Lakes’
‘octopus’ arms in northern California.
We had Shasta on our mind for months. The
‘when-we-should-go’ was where our minds diverged. I operate better in
cooler temps: the lower 80s’ is about my comfort limit. (This is also true
for my husband although he will tell you that he can tolerate higher
temps.) We finally decided on a late September trip in order to avoid the
summer crush of boaters, hoping that the Indian summer temperatures, so
brutal in these parts, had made their last hurrah.
We got part of our wish. Most of the summer crowd was
gone. But during that final September week, the sun was having its way with
Northern California and taking its time. In fact it had been doing that
for much of the summer. With boat in tow we arrived at the Lake, and
encountered water levels a full 70 feet below normal. Fortunately we had
the presence of mind to contact the local Chamber of Commerce (Redding)
prior to going. They advised us to launch at Packers Bay Marina, a
convenient spot located within a couple miles of Interstate-5, the main
highway that intersects the Lake at several locations.
Imagine a 500ft teeter-totter stuck in the highest
position. This is what Packer’s launch ramp resembled, our first reminder
of the tradeoffs of fall boating.. In 100+ degree weather we didn’t have to
wait in line (the smarter boaters were already under shade). We would
discover later as we saw smaller launching sites in the least traveled Arms,
that, despite its considerable length, the Packers Bay launch is a smarter
choice for larger boats.
From Packers Bay,
Antlers is a very doable reach, say 25 minutes with an experienced crew. We
were eager but not experienced. Eagerness and a pretty map help but not
when it comes to interpreting all the contours of this largest of all
California manmade lakes. Shasta Lake boasts 30,000 surface acres and
after 45 minutes of circling in and out of endless coves, we felt there
was the distinct possibility that without further guidance we might
inadvertently cover most of it. We resorted to querying fellow boaters.
Fortunately this is a houseboater’s mecca and our questions intercepted
their slow pace. Their responses were all the same: Just trust your
compass and continue to head north!
Now following their directions in earnest, Antler’s
Resort sign finally appeared. Where’s the cabins, I thought? As if in
unison we both discovered another consequence of receding water levels:
There they are…at the top of that enormous hill! (We made a mental note to
return in the rainy season.).
Antlers’ is by no means the only resort in this
region, but its secluded location and wide range of rental houseboats, and
regular boats (ski, fishing, patio and canoe) makes it an attractive and
versatile destination. It is also located near I-5 and we later noticed
that had we continued north on I-5, we could have exited very close to
Antler’s own launch ramp.
Shasta’s
impressive variety of fish, count 16 species!, was on my husband’s mind.
Our initial sense of feeling overwhelmed by its vastness dissipated
quickly. We were eager to get our share of its legendary bounty of
trout, bass, catfish, bluegill, perch, crappie and kokanee salmon.
The fishing brochures can sure cast a spell but there’s
nothing like word-of-mouth to pump a fisherman full of giddy anticipation.
Our neighbor bragged about catching some killer-size bass in the Pit River
Arm of Shasta. Needless to say, it was Pit River or bust.
The Pit River Arm
stretches way east, giving us the opportunity to once again test our
navigation skills. Reminiscent of many mountain lakes, the coves are full
of broken tree stumps, offering good hiding places for bass but also
treacherous possibilities for disastrous encounters with our prop. We
trolled for a few hours and then decided to see what the McCloud River Arm
has to offer.
Like siblings of
one large family, the ‘Arms’ of Shasta Lake all have unique
characteristics. We thought McCloud’s coves were particularly scenic, with
good views of Mt. Shasta at several locations. While the Sacramento Arm
sports the greatest concentration of resorts, each of the Arms has an
assortment of resorts, campgrounds and hiking areas. We anchored at Greens
Creek. Its large stretch of flat rolling ground offered a nice respite from
the rocky frontage that covers most of Shasta’s 370 mile shoreline.
While we spent most
of our time navigating all the Arms, it was nice to return to our spacious
Antler cabin, a studio that included full kitchenette facilities. Serving
the small clusters of cabins (studio up to three bedroom) are two swimming
pools and Jacuzzis. I spent the better part of one night cooling my body in
its waters while reveling in the panoply of stars overhead.
We would spend the better part of that week angling for
fish. They had the last say though. Hot temperatures drive them to the
depths and at Shasta Lake, you’re talking 160 feet easy. Ever the diplomat
my husband philosophized: “We let ‘em off the hook this time.” He doesn’t
like to take ‘no’ for an answer so there’s a very good chance we will be
back to get ‘em next year.
Contact Information:
Antlers Resort & Marina, Inc.
P.O. Box 140,
Lakehead, CA 96051
(530) 238-2553
(800) 238-3924
Fax (530) 238-2340
www.shastalakevacations.com
Redding Convention and Visitors Bureau
777 Auditorium Drive
Redding, California 96001
(800) 874-7562
Images by Patricia Kutza
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