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Inn of the AnasaziSanta Fe, New Mexicoby Janice RossenIf a sudden urge should strike you to run away from home, head immediately for Santa Fe, New Mexico. Adventurers and explorers have been there before you, and centuries of advanced Indian civilizations before them. You can still see amazing ruins of the dwelling places of the "Anasazi," the "ancient ones" who first settled in this rocky, mountainous area several hundred years ago. Actually, I must confess that what lured me to Santa Fe was the prospect of reveling in the contemporary southwestern cuisine (I adore chilies), and the chance to unwind at the fabulous Inn of the Anasazi. Add on top of this the city's world-class Japanese health spa, Ten Thousand Waves, and the Georgia O'Keefe Museum as food for the soul, and you can revel in a glorious weekend.
The loveliest part of the trip for me was the late afternoon hour or so that I spent curled up next to the blazing wood fire in the Inn of the Anasazi lobby. It is a place in which you can feel truly at home. Santa Fe remains for me someplace exotic, as though you can sense a sort of time travel that transcends distance. The "Ancient Ones" honored the land and lived in harmony with it, and that influence will renew your spirit. FOR MORE INFORMATIONThe following information may be useful in planning a visit: |
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It was all new to me.
Several of my friends visit Santa Fe regularly, and I was curious to see how
different it might be from Austin, Texas, where I moved some twelve years
ago from Los Angeles, and which still seems foreign. Santa Fe, however,
qualifies in my book for "exotic." It is also timeless, as they have
captured an ambiance that draws from the landscape that surrounds the city.
The Inn of the Anasazi, in particular, was a fabulous place to start
experiencing the culture of Santa Fe, since it merely welcomes you in--with
a cheerful, wood-burning fire, no less--and surrounds you with quiet. Stone
walls which echo the masonry of earlier Indian dwellings, huge leather
sofas, hand-crafted doorways modeled on Indian textile designs, and
fireplaces in every guest room--these have a powerful influence as soon as
you walk in the door. "No howling coyotes anywhere," a friend of mine says
about the elegant, southwestern decor.
The food at the Inn
also was fabulous. I love a place that will serve you fresh carrot juice for
breakfast, and this was followed by the most creative rendition of Eggs
Benedict I have ever encountered: poached eggs over duck hash, with a
jalapeno-lime hollandaise sauce. A group of us had a riotous dinner one
evening in the Inn's Wine Cellar, with candle-light flickering and foie gras
and buffalo tenderloin and more wine glasses per place-setting than I've
seen in a long time. 
If you do go to Santa
Fe, here is the meal that should not be missed: lunch or dinner at El
Paragua. This restaurant is located about twenty-four miles north of Santa
Fe, in the town of Espanola, just off of the Taos Highway on State Road 76.
It has been on the same spot for the past thirty years, and it has the feel
of someplace where people have been very happy for a long time. A friend of
mine says that the food has been absolutely the same for years, and that is
high praise: it is hands down the best Mexican food you can even imagine.
The kitchen grills meat over mesquite wood fires, and the tortillas are
crispy and paper-thin. As for the pitcher of Margaritas . . . It is worth
making a pilgrimage there.
The best thing for me
about visiting Santa Fe was the warmth and friendliness of everyone there,
who are happy to introduce you to the town's history, or to lead you out
into the wilderness. Bob King, of Santa Fe Guiding Company, can take you to
any of the Indian ruins (he has a wealth of historical information), or
fishing, hiking, quail hunting or even elk hunting (which can be executed
with a bow and arrow, if you prefer). Bob will even provide you with all of
the necessary equipment, although what everyone loves best is the company,
on every expedition, of his black lab, Catfish.
Carol, of Historic
Walks of Santa Fe, will give you so much historical information on the town
of Santa Fe that your head will be spinning--and, most fun of all for me,
she will gladly take you around to her favorite shops (there is even a
"Prestige Shopping Tour" that her company runs, and absolutely worth
considering). I was entranced by the small stone carvings of animals called
fetishes, and found a veritable legion of these magical creatures at a shop
called Keshi. Onorato Home Furnishings is scrumptious for sheets and
Egyptian cotton towels. Andrea Fisher's pottery store is like a museum, with
its exquisite collection of hand-thrown and painted Indian pots. Santa Fe is
famous for its plethora of art galleries, through which you can wander for
days on end.
Probably the best way
to capture the vibrancy of the surrounding area is to stroll through the
Georgia O'Keefe Museum. The drab and dreary oil painting which she produced
of the view from her New York City windows will show you instantly why she
responded with such passion to New Mexico, which she eventually made her
home, and which became instantly her inspiration. Riotous and exotic
flowers became her trademark, once she began working in a congenial setting.