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Native SecretsBy Janna GraberYou’ve heard about the great skiing in Aspen and Vail, but are these really the best places to head on your next ski holiday? A Colorado native lets you in on a few state secrets. There are, in my mind, two sides to my native state of Colorado. There is the Colorado I was born in, which is friendly, down-to-earth, in love with the outdoors, filled with the gorgeous scenery of the Rocky Mountains, and most of all, bargain-conscious.
This “other” Colorado, found in chic ski towns like Vail, Aspen and Telluride, is filled with world-class resorts, Hollywood stars, expensive restaurants and, of course, gorgeous scenery. This highly-advertised version of my home state is lovely and well worth the visit. However, it can be expensive for those looking for a good bargain. There is a lot to see and experience in places like Aspen and Vail, but if that’s all you saw on your visit to Colorado’s ski slopes then you would be missing out -- and your wallet would feel a whole lot lighter. There is a whole other Colorado to be discovered. First, though, there are some things you should know about your skiing holiday. You’ll be flying into Denver International Airport, which is a beautiful building, if I do say so myself. But don’t just rush out of the terminal, grab the first 4WD rental car you can find, and head to the mountains. Instead, keep our elevation in mind. Denver is at a high altitude (the town is nicknamed the Mile-High City), but it’s a lot lower than the 10,000 feet elevations you’ll be skiing at.
Doctors recommend that you take a day or two to acclimate to our thin air before heading up into the high county, so why not take a day or two to explore Denver? As the capital of Colorado, Denver is the state’s biggest city. Our lifestyle is a curious blend of the state’s western roots, easy-going-manner, and love of the mountains. The metro-area has over 2.5 million residents, so you’re likely anything to suit your fancy. The population is young and sporty, and the streets are wide and clean. You’ll have no problem getting around in that 4WD you’ve rented. Although the region is known for its great skiing, few know that Denver receives over 300 days of sunshine each year. So chances are, the sun will be shining in a deep blue Colorado sky during your visit. Although you’ll find every type of food in Denver, Mexican food is the local favorite, so make sure you try some. Hint: Some of the best authentic Mexican food can be found in small, family-run establishments. You should be able to get a whole dinner for around $7. You don’t have to spend a lot to dine well in Denver. The hottest spot in town is LoDo (lower downtown). You’ll find the place hopping with micro-breweries, cafés, restaurants and pubs. My favorite all-time place for people-watching is “The Market” on Larimer Street. All types of folks come in here for coffee and dessert. If you’d like to see remnants of the Old West that you saw in movies as a kid, take a 15-minute drive west of Denver into Golden. Once the territorial capital of Colorado, this little town, which is sandwiched between two mesas and the foothills of the Rockies, is “old” by American standards.
Stop into Golden’s Foss Drug, which is not a drug store, but a “general store” leftover from yesteryear. It’s known as the best place to get affordable souvenirs and clothing. For lunch or dinner, the Old Capital Grill is a must. This building was the actual territorial capital building. It serves huge portions for around $8. After a day or two in Denver, your body is ready now to head to the slopes. Before you head up, keep this in mind: A true Colorado skier does not care what you wear to ski. So don’t worry if your ski outfit doesn’t perfectly match or your skis are a few years old. If the snow is good then head out! The joy is in the skiing and being outdoors in the Rockies. We have over twenty words to describe our snow, and we take the snow conditions quite seriously. (FYI: Champagne powder is the crème de crème of snow conditions.) You can check out daily snow conditions at www.discovercolorado.com/snorep So now, where do you ski? There are dozens of resorts to choose from. If you’d like to stay in Denver, but ski during the day, you can take the Winter Park Ski Train for $45 round-trip. The train takes you on a two-hour ride through postcard-perfect country to the ski resort of Winter Park, where you’re dropped right at the base of the ski slopes. At the end of the day, simply hop back on for the ride back to Denver. Amtrak also has daily runs from Denver to Frasier and Granby (near Winter Park) on the California-Zephyr. Winter Park is one of the most popular resorts with locals. Owned by the City and County of Denver, it has dozens of excellent runs at an affordable lift ticket price (averages around $45, depending on time of year). If Winter Park is crowded, ski over to Mary Jane, which is included in the price of your Winter Park lift ticket. This mountain, named for a popular “lady of the evening” a century ago, is almost never crowded and has excellent intermediate and expert runs. Accommodations are easy to find in Winter Park and in the nearby towns of Granby and Frasier, where the rates are even better. If you tire of skiing, there is a lot to do in this area. Try snow tubing at the Frasier Tubing Hill, or go to Grand Adventures, which offers dog-sledding, snowmobiling and horse-drawn sleigh rides. King Mountain Ranch, a dude ranch in nearby Granby, offers sleigh rides, winter horseback riding, tubing, cross-country skiing and excellent dinners, as well as a great place to stay. Here is perhaps the biggest insider secret: You don’t have to pay the listed retail price for ski lift tickets. Instead, buy discount lift tickets for many resorts in Denver at stores like grocery King Soopers or Christy’s Sports. If you forget to buy them before you head into the high country, stop at Breeze Ski rental in the miniscule town of Dumont, off of Interstate I-70. (Another secret: The Conoco gas station next door sells coffee for $0.25, if you’d like to stop for a break.) The discounted lift tickets will cost anywhere from $25 to $45 a lift ticket, depending on the time of year. Children are less expensive, of course. And during the spring months of March and April, they sometimes ski free. Check the website of each resort for details. Several other popular resorts with the locals are Copper Mountain, Breckenridge, Keystone and Arapahoe Basin. All four world-class resorts are within two hours of Denver and charge roughly the same for a lift ticket. Loveland Ski Resort, the nearest resort to Denver, is less expensive than the others, but on stormy days, the wind can be quite strong there. If you’re willing to drive further, and would like to save a few dollars, try Ski Cooper or Sunlight Valley. Ski Cooper bills itself as the “friendliest” and the most “affordable family ski resort”. Located 100 miles from Denver in the San Isabel National Forest, Ski Cooper is a good option for those who want to escape the crowds. You can stay in the nearby former mining town of Leadville, which is a fun experience all its own. Sunlight Mountain Resort may not be huge, but it’s very affordable (between $20-$30). Best of all, it’s near the town of Glenwood Springs. Coloradans flock to this mountain town year-round to sit in the large natural hot springs. The accommodation options in Glenwood are not on the high-end, but the springs make up for the lack of luxury. There is something wonderful about sitting in a steaming spring in the quiet night, watching the snow flakes fall. What better way to relax after a hard day of skiing? Now that you know a few things that some “better-known” ski resorts have tried to keep a secret, go enjoy the real Colorado – my compliments. Just remember, if any Coloradan looks at you suspiciously, and asks how you learned all these things, please don’t mention my name. And remember, you never read this article. Helpful websites in planning your holiday: Colorado Ski Resort Guide Information on Colorado Information on Denver Information on Winter Park Grand Adventures in Winter Park Frasier Tubing Hill King Mountain Ranch Avoid high-altitude sickness |
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And there is the Colorado that the rest of the world
knows. 
Every year, Colorado mountain clinics see hundreds of
cases of altitude sickness. This malady is characterized by headache,
fatigue and dizziness, and frankly, it is not a fun way to spend your
holiday.
The Old West has been lovingly preserved in Golden. A
big sign in the middle of town welcomes visitors with, “Howdy folks! Welcome
to Golden – Where the West Lives.” It sounds a little silly, but Golden
really is a nice place to visit.