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Lake Michigan

Looping the Lake

By Sandra Scott

Fall is a perfect time to visit the Great Lakes area; there are fewer tourists and low season rates are in effect.  Plan at least two weeks to drive the 1000 miles around Lake Michigan.  In the process you will see parts of all five Great Lakes, the largest fresh water system in the world.

Dutch Treat

Depart from Chicago, head up the eastern shore of Lake Michigan, Michigan’s Gold Coast. Visit the quaint town and stroll the sandy beaches but for a Dutch treat plan to spend some time in Holland, Michigan.  The early Dutch settlers would be justly proud of the Holland that has been created on the shore of Lake Michigan. Stroll on the recreated Dutch Village at Windmill Island  and visit the 230-year-old DeZwaan Windmill, the only authentic Dutch windmill in the US. If you are lucky they will be grinding, if not notice the burlap bags of grain piled high waiting to be ground when the wind picks up. From the top of the windmill listen for the authentic Dutch street organ far below, which can be inspected after descending the windmill. Don’t forget to buy a ornate hand-made candle as a memento of the trip. Nearby, visit a factory that makes authentic Delftware, watch wooden shoes being fashioned, and purchase tulip bulbs to brighten your yard next spring. 

A shore thing

The beaches and sand dunes of Lake Michigan’s eastern shore form the world’s largest area of freshwater dunes. From the quaint, artsy village of Saugatuck take “The Star,” a paddle wheel boat, down the Kalamazoo River out into Lake Michigan past mounded dunes that cover what was once the village of Singapore. Near Silver Lake stop go bounding over Sahara-like dunes in a 12-passenger dune buggy with Mac’s Dune Buggy.  Occasional stops are made so the driver can explain the dynamics of the shifting sands.  What looks like five-foot saplings are really the tops of the 20-foot trees sticking out of the sand.  Traveling northward, stay on Route 30 driving stopping in picturesque towns where you can strolled along their river walk to one of Michigan’s long sweeping beaches then out atop the break wall to the lighthouse. Michigan has 131 of them!

A sweet place

Near where the Mackinaw Bridge connects the Michigan’s upper and lower peninsulas, take a ferry to Mackinac Island, a pricey destination that preserves its Victorian ambiance.  You will awake to the clip clop of horses, the island’s main means of transportation because motor vehicles are banned. Most people can’t afford to stay at the exclusive Grand Hotel, where they still require formal attire after 6 p.m., but can splurge on afternoon tea at the hotel, $20 pp for champagne, tea, sandwiches and desserts served by the liveried wait staff. Fudge seems to be the island’s main source of nourishment; there are literally fudge shops every few feet that sell 5 tons a day during the summer. 

Yooperland

Michigan’s Upper Peninsula, also known as “The UP” or “Yooperland,” makes up one-third of the state and most of it is wilderness. After a cruise through the locks at Sault Saint Marie, head for Whitefish Point, on the southeast corner of Lake Superior. The ill-fated Edmond Fitzgerald lies off the point and is remembered along with the 5000 other Great Lake tragedies at the Great Lakes Shipwreck Museum. At nearby Tahquamenon Falls, the second largest falls east of the Mississippi, after Niagara, rent a row boat to get to a little island and walk the trail to view all five of the Lower Falls before making the short drive to the Upper Falls. This is the area Longfellow used as the setting for his poem, “Hiawatha.”

Boil Over

Continue south into Wisconsin. On Lake Michigan’s western shore, is Door County, the “Cape Cod” of Wisconsin, a narrow peninsula dotted with little harbor towns, quaint shops, and cherry orchards.  The early Swedish settlers created the region’s gastronomic specialty, a Fish Boil. At Pellitier’s Restaurant, in the courtyard with guest gathered around the boiling pot, the cook, determined the pot of potatoes, onions and fish was ready.  He clanged the dinner bell, shouted, “Boil over,” threw kerosene on the fire, which blazed high causing the water to boil over taking all the fish fat with it, creating a hearty fish dinner that was topped off with cherry pie, made from Door County cherries, the other regional specialty. 

Looped

Complete the loop of Lake Michigan with a visit to Chicago.  The best view of the city skyline is from atop 150-foot Ferris wheel on Navy Pier. From the visitor’s gallery, watch the frenetic exchange of millions of dollars take place on the floor of the Chicago Mercantile Exchange. The hop-on-hop-off trolley will allow you to visit all the major sites.  A two-day pass is available. End your trip on an up note with an evening at the Chicago Symphony.

If you go:

Windmill Village, 7th Street and Lincoln Ave, $6 for adults, $3 children 5 – 12.

The Star of Saugatuck, 716 Water Street, $12, (616) 857-4261, www.saugatuckboatcruises.com

Mac Woods Dune Buggy, $12.50, (231) 873 2817, www.oceana.net/dunerides

Soo Lock Boat Tours, $17.50, (800) 432 6301

Great Lakes Ship Wreck Museum, $8 adults, $5 children, closed November to May,  (877) 744 7973, www.shipwreckmusuem.com

Pellitier’s Restaurant, $14.95 fish boil dinner, nightly, (920) 868 3313

Images by Sandra Scott

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