^TM

The Mellow Charms of Charleston
and Lowcountry South Carolina

By Murray D. Laurie

We didn’t count on the early evening thunderstorms, but we found them an exciting diversion as we lolled in our wicker chairs on the second floor porch, or piazza, as proper Charlestonians refer to their expansive indoor-outdoor rooms. After taking several walking tours and appreciating the full impact of the charming architecture of the City of Charleston, my sister and I were glad to put our tired tootsies up and contemplate our prospects for the dinner hour as the rain dwindled to a light sprinkle.

Our hosts at Fantasia, the elegant bed-and-breakfast inn built before the Civil War, treated us to sumptuous breakfasts each morning and advised us with admirable good taste as to which tour guide to engage, which seafood restaurant to try, which vendors to look out for. We luxuriated in our romantic suite of rooms furnished with high four-poster beds, feeling like Southern gentlewomen with each of our whims catered to.

Fantasia, also known as the Mary Scott House, is a classic Charleston single house, just one  room wide, allowing for plenty of cross ventilation. Some of the guest suites include a kitchen and working fireplaces, and one even has a Jacuzzi for two (something that would have astounded Miss Scott, a maiden lady whose father had the house built in 1813).

We relished the convenient location that encouraged us to stroll around town, down to the ice cream shop on Meeting Street; to Hank's, the marvelous seafood place located in an old warehouse; the luxurious restaurant at 82 Queen Street with its patio garden aglow with twinkling lights; or the light-hearted Poogan's Porch, a restaurant named for the friendly pooch who greeted guests there for many years. 

Our trip to Charleston was something of a sentimental journey, for our parents were married here more than sixty years ago. We were thrilled to find the little stone church where they married,  the Battery Park where they had photos taken after their wedding ceremony, and the pre-Revolutionary-War-era house they lived in (now undergoing extensive restoration)

Even if we had no personal ties, we would still have loved our visit to this beautiful harbor city poised where the Ashley and Cooper Rivers converge. Charleston opens itself to all who visit and shares its love of tradition, family, and the preservation of what is good about the past. Ed Grimball, our excellent tour guide, took us down narrow lanes, along cobblestone streets, and into the intimate back yards and tiny gardens that are so endearing, remarking that often homeowners will invite his groups in for a closer look and a friendly chat about their beloved houses.

We made ourselves at home, joining the children splashing in the fountains near the waterfront prowling for bargains in the city market, and chatting with the women weaving the distinctive Lowcountry sweetgrass baskets.  We warmed to the shopkeepers who really seemed to care about our good will.

We stayed in the Lowcounty of South Carolina long enough to treat ourselves to a generous gift of time. We fitted in visits to three of our favorite plantations, Drayton Hall, Magnolia Gardens, and Middleton Place. Each is splendid, each is special, each is rich in southern tradition and heritage. Although they are in the same neighborhood, strung along Highway 61 northwest of Charleston, we decided not to try to visit all three in one day.

Only a ghost remains of the formal landscaping and agricultural occupations of Drayton Hall, so we concentrated entirely on the architectural glory of this 18th century dwelling of John Drayton, one of Charleston=s wealthiest rice planters. The two-story red brick house is empty of furniture and bric-a-brac, so visitors may focus on the majesty of the proportions of the rooms, the restrained painted and carved decorations in wood and plaster created by skilled artisans centuries ago, and the views of the Ashley River through the wavy antique window glass.  Even the basement, the working part of the house, is stripped down to its basic space so that we felt the weight of the society above pressing down on those who once toiled below.  Guided tours of the house, which survived both the Revolutionary and Civil Wars, are repeated throughout the day, and visitors are invited to take self-guided tours along the river and through the marsh.

A neighbor of Drayton Hall is Magnolia Plantation and Gardens, another Drayton family property still owned by a descendent of Thomas Drayton, who arrived in South Carolina in 1671 from Barbados. One of our country=s oldest gardens, this splendid horticultural gem and its year-round display of color has been open to the public for over a century. We are especially partial to the Audubon Swamp Garden, which will dispel any notion you ever had that swamps are spooky places. The plantation house, furnished with antiques, is open for tours.

Down the road a bit farther is Middleton Place, featuring rare heritage plants, terraced lawns, butterfly lakes, and a formal design inspired by 17th century European gardens. The camellias bloom in the winter and the azaleas dazzle in spring, but you can enjoy the 250-year-old garden in any season.)  Although the main house was destroyed, an 18th century wing remains and is open for tours. You=ll learn more about the Middletons, who were among the country=s early movers and shakers: Henry was president of the First Continental Congress and his son Arthur signed the Declaration of Independence.  Middleton Place always intrigues us with its re-created working farm atmosphere, where cows and horses graze in the meadows, blacksmiths hammer out rugged tools, and the simple homes of those whose labor made it all possible bask in the sun

The grand scale of these heritage homes and gardens in and around Charleston, as well as those in the city itself,  inspires awe and respect for the generations who have tended and nurtured them despite hard times, wars, family disasters, and the whims of Mother Nature.  South Carolina=s Lowcountry, one of our nation=s oldest settled regions, has perfected the art of southern hospitality and loves to lavish it on visitors in all seasons.

Links:

Fantasia Bed and Breakfast, 11 George Street, Charleston:  http://monmouth.com/~fantasia.  

Charleston Area Convention and Visitors Bureau: www.charlestoncvb.com

Drayton Hall ( http://www.draytonhall.org )

Magnolia Plantation ( http://www.magnoliaplantation.com ).

Middleton Place ( http://www.middletonplace.org )

Back to TravelLady Magazine