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Mauka Maui:Island Inland Adventures!By Rick Millikan
After a fresh sugar-pineapple, apple-banana and strawberry-papaya breakfast, we traveled inland to Iao Valley’s Hawaii Nature Center for a rain forest adventure. Its informative and entertaining natural history displays allowed me to better understand and appreciate a unique ecology. Who would have guessed a fish has evolved to both swim and walk in island streams? Stretched out upon the dragonfly bench, with facemask and armed wings, I “dragonflew” the I’ao stream! Our guide noted, “Children of all ages love the Center! You’ll love our rain forest walk even more!”
That early San Franciscan travel writer, Mark Twain had picnicked in this benign valley with Hawaiian royalty. The serene beauty enchanted many early visitors. The beloved I’ao Valley is revered as most sacred. Royal burial caves dot its steep valley walls. We looped back under the forest canopy and along the burbling stream to the Center.
Another popular trip for nineteenth century visitors was a horseback ride up to the Ulupalokua Ranch. Maui Jeep Adventures facilitated that historic upland trek from Wailea. We soon followed that well-worn route of cattle drives and tall ship tourists. After opening the first gate into the 23,000 acre Ulupalokua Ranch, our naturalist guide Cheryl remarked, “This shortcuts an hour off the round about highway route!” Spotted deer darted in front of us. “Introduced species like these Axis deer thrive without natural predators!” Colorful game pheasants and chukkars scampered beside us.
Our open-air custom Jeep next climbed onto lush green uplands’ pasture dotted with black Brangus cattle, some sheep, and occasional plovers. “Ragged after 3,000 miles travel from Alaskan nesting grounds, these amazing Golden Plovers fly 80 mph to return to their exact Maui sites!” Farmhouse foundations reflected ranch history. Paniolas, Hawaii’s cowboys, still herd cattle on horseback. The few remaining sandalwood and koa trees hinted at the earlier lucrative native timber trade. The tectonic rifts protect the once flourishing native ferns from grazers.
The Polipoli evergreen cloud forest bordered our last mile to a plush grassy picnic spot on a 6,000-foot ridge. We lunched with pristine views of both coasts! Descending westward along a rugged ridge we viewed nearby cinder cones, a lava lake and distant La Perousse Bay. Displaying yellow, red and peach flowers, native Ohias adapted well and thrived in the lava. A grove sheltered some historic ranch survivors. The regal peacocks plaintively shrieked, strutted on logs, and displayed a come hither plumage. “We seem more impressed than the pea hens!” Cheryl joked. Trees were notably arrayed as well! Lacy silver oaks’ orange, the wattles’ fragrant yellow and native willi willis’ red blooms befit this natural paradise. Upon our return, we thanked Cheryl for our scenic adventure into Maui’s largely unknown and now unforgettable uplands! Leaving Maui is always difficult; yet we will return again to this magic place so full of adventures. For further information:Judy Edwards |
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TM
The two directions in Hawaii are
makai: to the shore
and mauka: to the mountain. Most island tourists direct themselves makai to
spend their holiday time frolicking and baking on the beaches. Yet those
who venture mauka in Maui find unique island adventures!
Beyond the center’s back door, a narrow bridge crossed
Iao stream onto a worn path through coffee, guava and kukui groves. “As you
can see the Polynesians brought many useful plants. The Kukui (candle nuts)
were used for illumination!” An untended wild cherry, banana plants and
taro patches flourished. Rock terraces still outlined the early villages.
The villagers must have enjoyed a Garden of Eden with neither vicious
predators nor aggravating mosquitoes.
Just a short walk below the center, Kepanaiwai Heritage
Park celebrates Maui’s ethnic diversity. It was an opportunity to visit
replicated Polynesian, New England, Filipino, Portuguese and Japanese homes
in a beautiful garden setting.
The Ranch headquarters was based in picturesque
Ulupalokua. King Kalakaua’s original 1874 guest cottage perseveres as the
Tedeschi Winery. Surrounded by century old trees in an idyllic park
setting, the winery houses many artifacts.
We investigated a lava tube. It had once conducted
molten rock steaming and sizzling into the ocean. Overgrowth obscured its
entrance. Inside was surprisingly spacious, bright and cool. Animal skulls
fueled our imaginations! Perhaps its partially collapsed ceiling provided
death traps as well as skylights.