Travellady MagazineTM


Summer Sports & Shopping To Boot

Freeport, Maine

By Valerie Summers

It all began with a boot!  Ninety years ago, hunting enthusiast Leon Leonwood Bean  decided to design and market a better boot, having had to put up with cold, wet feet during his hunting trips.  He sold them through mail-order with the offer of a full refund if not satisfied.  Of the original 100 sold, 90 were returned and the cost refunded.  He improved the design and perfected the best boot of its kind. Thus, in the sleepy village of Freeport, Maine, near the “River of Many Fish,” began one of the country’s most successful retail operations. When L.L. Bean first opened for business, he accommodated shoppers 24 hours a day and continues this policy.  If a hunter arrived at 2am and rang the bell, the night watchman would let him in to try on boots and purchase them right then and there and be on his way.  Now a shopping destination with more than 100 internationally known retail boutiques and factory outlets, restaurants and galleries, Freeport has grown up around L.L. Bean’s three-story, 119,000 square foot flagship store.  Today, there are no locks on the doors of the L.L. Bean mega-store which is open for shoppers every day of the year, 24 hours a day 

In addition to boots, shoes,  apparel, and sporting equipment,  L.L. Bean’s full service operation features Walk-On Adventures and Outdoor Discovery Schools.  On the spur of the moment, providing the class is not already filled up, summertime visitors may sign on for introductory lessons in Kayak touring (2 ½ hours for $12), Fly Casting (1 ½ hours for $10) or Clay Shooting (1 ½ hours for $12).  For more thorough instruction, the Outdoor Discovery Schools list of activities includes choices of full day and multi-day excursions.

I signed on for an introduction to kayaking, followed the next day by a full day of paddling down the Harraseeket River and around the islands of Casco Bay. Along with eight other novices, I met up with jovial instructor Jill Ross, presenting safety information and the basics on the sport of sea kayaking with humor.  We slipped into our PFDs (the au corrant name for life jackets), trying out the paddling motions on land before heading down to the dock.  The temperature hovered in the 80s.  The sky was bright blue and the water was a little colder than I would have enjoyed had I fallen into it.  In no time at all, my group was right in the swing, weaving in and out of the moored boats.

The following day I returned with a friend to meet up with two enthusiastic young instructors, Kevin and Charlie.  After the first hour of more detailed instruction and demonstrations, over a bathing suit and my long sleeved shirt,  I donned a wetsuit, PFD (Personal Flotation Devices), and a skirt contraption which would literally be my connection to my sea kayak.  I would later appreciate having my fingerless boating gloves, visor and sunglasses for added protection.  We hauled our respective kayaks down to the water, were given another demonstration on the best way to get in from the shore and proceeded to slip into them, sealing ourselves in with the spray skirt.  We started down river, avoiding moving boats and their wakes, skirting around tiny Pound of Tea, Goslings and Little Mosher islands of Casco Bay.  After a couple of hours, we beached our kayaks on a deserted island and carried our stored picnic lunches over to a rocky outcropping with a spectacular view of the passing boats and lush, wooded islands of Maine.  We munched on succulent fresh lobster rolls and freshly baked chewy chocolate chip cookies. After a much earned rest, we headed back towards Freeport.  The sun was warmer, my stomach was fuller, the tide was stronger and I was a far better kayaker than I had been six hours earlier. 

The following morning I was introduced to the sport of clay shooting by one of the country’s foremost marksmen, Keith MacDonald, who had me feeling like Annie Oakley in no time.  Several years ago I had, for the first time, given clay shooting a try.  After two hours with instruction I had connected once.  With Keith’s help, advising me of safety precautions, stance, position and timing and with a 28 gauge shotgun, within minutes, I was hitting the clay discs coming and going. He applauded when I hit and encouraged me when I missed with “Excellent form – you were so close to the target.”  In an hour and a half he had won over a new clay shooting enthusiast.

Later, a walk in the lush woods of white pine and hemlock along Maine’s rugged coastline took me through the 200 acre Wolfe’s Neck Woods State Park where I hiked along carefully designated paths and down to the water for a rock skipping respite before heading back to town for some “Shop-Aerobics” along Main Street.

During my stay in Freeport, I indulged in lobster, crab cakes and rich New England clam chowder as often as possible in all kinds of settings.  One evening I took a sunset dinner cruise aboard the Atlantic Seal, passing the home of Admiral Robert Peary, now a museum, on Eagle Island.  We watched playful seals and magnificent ospreys on Googins Island while chowing down.  The Broad Arrow Tavern was the perfect selection for casual dining where I feasted on steamed Maine clams. It was hard to choose from the eclectic six page menu at the Muddy Rudder, nestled on the Cousins River, but I did not regret my selection of the luscious lobster roll. The Harraseeket Lodge provided the backdrop for several meals including an elaborate Sunday Brunch including not only my big three favorites mentioned above, but caviar, salmon, pork, roast beef, salads, waffles and table full of desserts. Another evening, in the hotel’s signature Maine Dining Room, my dinner included out of shell succulent poached Maine lobster served over spring pea and truffle risotto.  The meal concluded with Chocolate Overdose, a flaming, decadent dessert of warm chocolate cake, Grand Marnier, berries and orange chocolate chunk ice cream.  On the final night of my visit, I got down and dirty at a lobster bake in the hotel’s gardens, attacking my huge lobster with crackers while melted butter dripped down my chin, a fitting finale to a fun filled visit to Freeport, Maine.

For information:

Atlantic Seal Cruises
Main Street, Box 146
South Freeport, Maine  04078
207/865-6112

Comfort Suites features affordable, oversized rooms with separate sitting area,  remote control cable TV, air conditioning, iron and board, coffee maker, refrigerator, microwave, free newspaper each morning.  A complimentary deluxe continental breakfast is offered daily and guests may enjoy the indoor swimming pool and fitness center.
500 U. S. Route One
Freeport, Maine 04032
877/865-9300
http://www.freeportcomfortsuites.com

Freeport Merchants Association
P. O. Box 452
Freeport, Maine  04032
800/865-1994

Harraseeket Inn, a four diamond luxury country inn situated in the midst of Freeport Village, this elegant boutique hotel features individually decorated guest rooms, some with fireplaces and canopied beds, sumptuous breakfasts, afternoon tea and two fine restaurants.
162 Main St.
Freeport, Maine  04032
800/342-6423
http://www.harraseeketinn.com

Muddy Rudder Restaurant
31 US Route 1
Freeport, Maine  04032
800/99-VALUE
http://wwwfreeportinn.com

L. L. Bean Outdoor Discovery Schools
Casco Street
Freeport, Maine 04033
888/552-3261
http://www.llbean.com

US Airways flies into Portland, just a 30 minute drive to Freeport
800/428-4322
http://www.usairways.com

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