|
Riverdancing!“Three Days on British Columbia’s Chilcotin and Fraser Rivers”By Jamie RossWe surveyed the Chilcotin River from high up on the canyon walls, a vantage that made it seem far less intimidating. Our orders were specific - aim right of a huge rock in the middle of the river, paddle like crazy to gain momentum, hold on tight to hit a hole, get soaked, paddle out. It all sounded easy enough. So we returned to our 18 foot rubber rafts, wrapped ourselves safely in a life jacket, and with paddle in hand and banana yellow helmet perched on our heads, we were ready. “All Forward!” Guide Julie’s screamed commands are barely audible over the roar of the water. We primly dipped our paddles into the rushing torrent. “Hard!” We pulled harder, water splashed over the bow into my face, filling my foolishly gaping mouth, causing me to cough and sputter. “Hold On!!” I was hanging on before the Mayday, grabbing onto fellow passenger Barbara’s arm as she seemed to be teetering right. I am not sure if I thought I was saving her from a dunking, something she thanked me for, or that her arm was the easiest thing to “hold on” to.
“We” are a group of thirteen, from as far away as Mexico, Florida, California, Illinois and Quebec, on a three day expedition with The Waterpeople of Williams Lake, down the Chilcotin and Fraser Rivers in British Columbia’s Interior. Two guides on two rafts, and three day’s stash of food, camping equipment and supplies, stacked neatly and securely amongst the rafters. These Class IV rapids would be the wildest ride on a trip that allows for a pleasant juxtaposition of excitement and relaxation. Twenty minutes of wild exhilaration is balanced with paddles shipped and feet up, the wind and sun putting a glow on your face, and your spirit. With the steady, seductive rhythm of the oars dipping water, and the river’s currents slapping against the raft’s haul, watery miles glide effortlessly past.
Before our wild Farwell Canyon ride, expedition leader Mike Ford had led the energetic up a narrow, dirt trail to the east of the river, on a steep climb to the Farwell dunes. We trekked across the spine of a massive mountain of fine, white sand, its surface rippled and carved by fierce westerly winds. Considered B.C.’s largest dune, it was formed when sandstone eroded from the hoodoo formations of the nearby canyon. The hike allowed superb views of the sculptured canyon and the Chilcotin River far below.
Our first day on the river was a rainy and cool affair. After running the Class III Gooseneck rapids through Hanceville Canyon, we stopped at a gravel bar for lunch, and warmed ourselves beside a driftwood fire. The first camp was at the confluence of Big Creek and the Chilcotin, in a pretty treed setting above a boulder strewn beach. We helped put up the “big top” over our fire to protect us from the rain, a great blue tarp supported by the river oars. The river camps provide all the primitive luxuries that ingenuity can provide. One thing that the neatly ordered rafts allow, is the carrying of all needed equipment; a heavy iron grill for the fire, prep and serving tables for lunch and dinner, and a propane stove system. A pale of water and a foot-pump system provides running water. Even the lieu, a portable potty and privacy tent, is set in a secluded area with a grand view of Big Creek. After retiring to my tent for the night, the constant sound of the two rivers helped lull me into a deep, sound sleep. The second night is spent on the western shore of the Chilcotin River, a sandy beach location with tent sites on a higher, grassy bench. Before arriving we jumped out of the raft into the glacial waters. It is immediately exhilarating and, when back on board in the sunshine, quite cleansing and refreshing. After dinner Mike leads a few of us up on the bench lands behind the camp for a view of the sculptured hills, splendid in the evening light. Down river, we see the rocky narrowing of Big John Canyon, and the Class IV Railroad Rapids that will greet us early on day three. The clear, dark night sky is beautiful, bright stars twinkle like chipped-diamonds. Though marginally less wild than Farwell Canyon, the run through Big John Canyon is longer in duration, and some hard paddling is required to avoid such obstructions as the ominous Lucifer’s Ledge. I am impressed by the expertise of both Mike and Julie at the helm. Working with the river, they easily navigate its unbridled hydraulics, the boulders, roller-coaster waves, hidden rocks, logs, gravel bars and ledges, before steering easily into the safe harbour of an eddy. We stop for a break at the confluence of the Chilcotin and the Fraser, and hunt amongst the cactus for native kekuli hollows. Here the landscape is more varied, cut by deep river valleys and upland plateaus. Drought resistant grasses and shrubs thrive in an area too severe for most trees to find a foothold. This is bunch-grass country, where herds of California bighorn sheep roam grassland benches dotted with prickly pear cactus.
David, who travelled with his wife and teenage daughter from Chicago for the trip, tells me that the last time he was rafting was in Disneyland. There, at night, they turn the water off. Here, the rivers flow on, the adventure is real, the sound and movement is constant, and the landscape forever changing. Best of all, these rivers are private highways, allowing access into remote and spectacular canyons and forests. If you go ...The Waterpeople of Williams Lake offer one, three, or six day rafting adventures, and six day raft and hike combinations. Contact Mike Ford at 1-800-908-8138, e-mail trips@thewaterpeople.com or visit the web site www.thewaterpeople.com . What to bring ...The Water People provide wetsuits, life jackets and helmets. They also supply big, waterproof bags for the overnight trips to keep your clothes and camping gear dry. A smaller waterproof bag and carabineer clip is necessary to carry your day gear. An extensive gear and clothing list is available on the web site or by contacting Mike. If you would like to take pictures during the exciting rapid stretches, a waterproof disposable camera works great. Watershoes or wetsuit booties and gloves are nice for the cooler days. It is important to wear fleece or wool, never cotton. You will get wet! Photographs by Chris Harris |
|
TM
The
raft plunged downward into the huge river hole, spun around backwards, and
then popped out the other side, narrowly skirting the mid-river rock, before
bouncing wildly through a series of huge haystacks. “Left Back, Right
Forward!” There was an agonizing few seconds of confusion, (floating
backwards am I now right or still left?), but we did as beckoned, and the
bow swung downstream. We pounded over more waves and got drenched by a few
more blasts of icy water, before the river calmed. Whoops of exhilaration
filled the air, while Julie commended us on our excellent paddling. I am not
really sure we helped at all, but still, we are quite pleased with
ourselves. We had tackled the wild Farwell Canyon and survived.
The scenery is
spectacular and unexpected. Sand dunes, hoodoos, sagebrush and prickly pear
cactus, in a province known more for its lush forests and rugged mountains.
Multi-hued layers of rock have been exposed by the river’s down cutting.
Between the rim of the valley and the river, streams have dissected the
layered sediment, forming steep-sided coulees with deeply grooved slopes and
mushroom-like hoodoos. Spires and cathedrals stretch sharply skyward from
the river’s edge. Bizarrely twisted conifer trunks and root systems cling
precariously to even minute amounts of fertile soil, looking from below like
so many neatly sculptured bonsai trees.
One of
the beauties of a trip such as this, is that the hard-working guides take
care of the mundane bits. They do all the cooking, clean the pots, and lead
hikes into the surrounding bench lands. As for the food, it is gourmet, all
the way. The first night it is grilled chicken, wild rice, corn and salad,
white wine and beer, Baileys for the cowboy coffee and a chocolate cake
baked in an innovative earth oven. The second night is Mexican night, nachos
and fajitas, fresh guacamole and, of course, a tasty margarita or two.
The
Fraser is for drifting, with only some small rapids, boils and whirlpools.
Bald Eagles watch us from trees, or soar majestically above, and big horn
sheep stare inquisitively down from the cliff tops. We stop for lunch on a
sandy beach and find tracks from a black bear sow and her two cubs. At 3:30,
our trip ends at the Churn Creek Protected Area, and we are shuttled back to
Williams Lake along a picturesque canyon road.