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The Original Fantasy IslandsThe Thimble Islands of Stony CreekBy Karen ForrestTake a map - a treasure map - if you want to explore the historically rich enclave of Stony Creek, CT, home of the unique Thimble Islands. What better place to hide looted treasure than Captain Kidd's harbor where there really is a Treasure Island? The infamous pirate, who sailed through the Thimbles in the 1600s, is rumored to have stashed his loot near Kidd's Island. Then again, he had more than a hundred islands to choose from - from Horse Island to Money Island to the minuscule Tom Thumb Islands and the oddly-named Mother-in-Law Island. If you forget your map, Captain Mike Infantino Jr. of the 44 ft. Sea Mist vessel will supply you with a treasure map for a very reasonable $1 and only set you back $8 for a 45-minute narrated tour of these spectacular spits of rock, sitting like connect-a-dots in the shallow waters of Long Island Sound. What's so spectacular about the Thimble Islands? Since they were discovered in 1614 by Adrian Block from the Dutch West Indies, pioneers have been dragging wood, stone and glass out to the islands to build truly one-of-a-kind homes. Visitors stopping by unannounced? Not possible! One island is only large enough to hold a gazebo, which the owner uses for picnicking after taking a dip. Another island is large enough to accommodate a 27-room Tudor mansion, complete with tennis and basketball courts, located near the caretaker's house. About 100 families inhabit 25 of the islands, but only in the summer months, our captain said. Davis Island is one of six islands that has electric power; the others utilize generators, batteries or the obvious choice, solar power. Less than half of the homes pipe fresh water from shore; the rest use wells, rainwater catch basins, or haul their water on and off their fantasy islands, Capt. Mike said. The islands are named after a fruit, the thimbleberry, a relative of the black raspberry family. Many of the islands have nicknames; Wheeler Island, the closest one to shore, is known locally as Ghost Island. This house, which sits forlornly atop its rocky perch, reminds locals of a spectral Charles Adams cartoon. Our two-deck vessel cruised s past Little Pumpkin Island, Cut-in-Two Island and the aforementioned Mother-in-Law Island, also known as Prudden Island. It seems a couple, who were married on an adjacent island, rowed across the sound to their little piece of paradise for their honeymoon. Later that evening, the bride's mother showed up to make sure the newlyweds were all right (which they probably were, at least, up to that point.) The 27th President of the United States, William H. Taft, used the Thimble mansion on Davis Island for two summers, renaming it "The Summer White House." Money Island is large enough to encompass 32 homes, a church and a post office. And Kidd's Island was the reputed place where Captain Kidd spied on ships coming into Kidd's Harbor, laden with gold and silver, before helping himself to their bounty. Captain Mike said the island's new inhabitants are a bit friendlier, although they've been known to fly the skull and crossbones on occasion. Most of Kidd's treasure is believed to be buried closer to Gardiner's Island, 30 miles away (but you bought the map, just in case, right?) Almost all of the islands are privately owned. The largest island, the 17-acre Horse Island, is owned by Yale University and is used by the Peabody Museum for ecology purposes. Outer Island is used for the same purpose by Southern Connecticut State University; Frisbee Island has been designated as a bird sanctuary. A stone quarry on Bear Island supplied the building materials for bridges in Old Saybrook and Hartford. Pink granite from Stony Creek mines was used to build portions of the Statue of Liberty, Grant's tomb and the Lincoln Memorial, Capt. Mike said. The captain tours continued with tales of Indians, the great hurricane of 1938, and other tidbits of Thimble lore. Christopher Hauge, owner of Stony Creek Kayak, offers another way to view the sights- kayaking. Mr. Hauge, who has been guiding since 1992, offers guided tours, sunset tours, full moon tours, as well as private instruction. A three-hour tour (sound familiar?) costs $50; private instruction is $45 an hour (two-hour minimum.) Stony Creek Kayak also offers tours of the nearby Branford and Guilford Harbors and fresh water kayaking at Lake Quonnipaug in Guilford. Ray Lafarier of Stony Creek Auto gossiped that newswoman Jane Pauley and her cartoonist husband Gary Trudeau own a summer home one of the islands; Gretel Uhl, owner of Island Tastes boutique, semi-confirmed this information. Her store is located in a former grocery store, owner by her great-uncle from 1913-1960. He used to ferry supplies to the islanders, Ms. Utl said. Stony Creek represents "the most beautiful part of the Connecticut coastline, because of the islands," Ms. Uhl said. The pizza at the Stony Creek Market is "a must" for locals and visitors. "You can't beat the view," which overlooks the Stony Creek beach and harbor, she said. The Stony Creek Fish Market down the street offers lobster rolls, Rhode Island clam chowder and lobster bisque. There are a couple of other shops along Thimble Island Road, including the Moon Dance Gallery and Stony Creek Antiques, but without a doubt the most interesting stop along the street is the simply named Puppet House. This former silent movie house is home to the "Stony Creek Life-Size Sicilian Puppets." Puppeteer Joe Davis coerced a few puppets from their perches and explained how 4-foot tall puppets from Sicily ended up in America. Grace Weil, a local puppet collector, purchased the theater in 1960 to house her growing collection and start a puppet museum. After seeing a puppet show at Cavaliere Macri's Theatre in Sicily, Ms. Weil became friends with the puppeteer and his son, Salvatore. Salvatore Macri told Ms. Weil about a collection of Sebastiano Zappala puppets that were being stored in a small theater in Sicily. Mr. Zappala, known as the greatest craftsman in his field, created over 300 puppets at the turn of the century out of steel-reinforced hardwood, covered in hand-embossed brass armor. The avid collector bought them, asked Salvatore Macri to come to America teach her son how to operate the heavy, ornately-costumed works of art, and the "Macri-Weil Sicilian Puppet Theatre" was born. The name was changed in 1999 when Mr. Macri retired. From a bridge six feet above the stage, puppeteers move the 80-pound puppets with two steel rods, one moving the head and the other the arm. Each puppeteer takes on several roles during the performance. Scripts are based on ancient European poems, with a general plotline being followed with a lot of improvisation in between, Mr. Davis said. When asked to estimate the cost of the Stony Creek puppets, Mr. Davis declined, saying "I feel like they're real people." Mr. Davis, who has been a puppeteer for 27 years, is also the artistic director of the theater. The Stony Creek puppets have performed throughout America and are available for school demonstrations. Three tour boat companies offer passengers guided tours of the Thimbles: The Sea Mist with Captain Mike can be reached at (203) 488-8905 or www.seamistcruises.com ; Captain Bob Milne of the Volsunga IV or capt.bob@thimbleislands.com (203) 481-3345, or Connecticut Sea Ventures at (203) 397-3921. You can arrange for private charters, day or evening; take a wine and cheese or a fall foliage cruise or go on a seal watch in March or April. Each company offers different packages and rates; senior and children discounts are available. The boat tour is not recommended for children under 3. All boats are located at the town dock. Stony Creek Kayak Tours and Instruction: The Stony Creek Puppet House is located at 128 Thimble Island Road. Directions: Take 1-95 to Exit 56. At end of ramp, head south to the shore. Go straight for 2 miles on Leetes Island Road to 4-way stop. Go straight through stop and follow signs to Thimble Island Road. Scenic Route: We took Exit 53 and followed Route US 1 north to 146 east, a scenic-designated route. Lenny's Indian Head restaurant, a lobster and steamers seafood shack sitting on a salt meadow in Indian Neck, was packed the day we meandered by. (213-488-1500.) Continue following 146 and take a right at the Stony Creek intersection. |
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