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Pedals in Paradise!Soft Cycling Adventures in HawaiiBy Rick Millikan
Airlines charge little or nothing to transport bicycles. Although most airlines require bikes boxed, the task of removing pedals, handlebars, seat, wheels, and air from tires can be quickly done. Packing bike tools, pump & panniers in the box makes reassembling much easier. Remember an attached rack will carry your groceries as well as picnic and snorkel gear to any number of nearby beaches. If you wish to reassemble your bicycles at where you’re staying, most taxis accommodate boxed bicycles. Many cyclists decide to put their bikes together at the airport. After a typical 5-hour plane trip, these cyclists will stretch their muscles arriving energized at their new island home.
The Big Island, Hawaii, famous for the Iron Man Triathlon, accommodates every type of silver haired, bronzed skinned and green minded cyclist. The Kailua-Kona airport’s wide shouldered, scenic highway easily connects local resorts. I never tired of pedaling this elevated route south along fields of lava, enjoying the Pacific panorama, coasting into funky old Kailua, then continuing along Allii Drive’s beaches to our hillside Keauhou Condo. Our condo was a short coast back to Keauhou Beach Hotel’s historic grounds, which contain a reconstruction of Kamehameha III’s summer cottage, a temple, and petroglyphs. Adjacent Kahaluu Beach Park’s coral reef sheltered sea turtles and a rainbow collection of fish. After snorkeling away the morning there, I often returned along well-shouldered Alii Drive into laid back Kailua to shop, to explore its history, and connect to other adventures. Sometimes I would fill my panniers with local fresh fruit and vegetables at the colorful farmers’ market.
Allii Drive ends at the Kamehameha Hotel, which honors Hawaiian life and regal heritage with artifacts and paintings. There, Kamakahonu Beach, referred by locals as “Kids’ Beach”, provides a sheltered dip, refreshing swim or crystaline snorkel. Beside the beach, Kamehameha’s replicated home and temple guard Kailua Bay's entrance.
Up the street from the Kamehameha Hotel is Hilo Hattie’s. This long established Hawaiian merchandise store welcomes visitors with shell leis, juice, and coffee. So one day, as a thirsty, “touristy” cyclist, I entered into this “aloha” spirited shop. Happening to be the typical Friday, I was especially fortunate, the elders (kapuna) were entertaining with music, presenting "talk stories", and demonstrating handicrafts. Several interesting beaches lie just outside Kailua. On the northern edge of Kailua town, the original highway enters Old Airport State Recreation Area. Though there’s no sandy beach, a rock ledge provides easy access into the calm crystal waters. After pedaling up to and along the main highway to Honokohau Harbor, a rough lava trail connects an idyllic sheltered cove. Kaloko-Honokohau National Historical Park’s main entrance is three miles further. The former village has all but disappeared, yet amateur archeologists can pick out many signs of early inhabitation. There’s no postcard beach. It’s wild and raw. A narrow rock channel connects the snorkeler to deep crystalline water teaming with fish. Gliding through the shallows you feel and see the cold fresh water percolating up into the ocean. For hundreds of years Hawaiians have used these “ocean springs” for a potable water supply. A few miles beyond, you can now access the white sand Ka’uupulehu Beach at Four Seasons, which stretches around Mahaiula Bay.
The Bay is a sacred historic Hawaiian site. Above us in the cliff caves, Royalty was entombed. Captain Cook discovered Hawaii here, during a Hawaiian religious celebration. He anchored, stepped ashore, and was mistaken for a returning god, Lono. Cook was thus treated as a mighty god. Setting sail, his fortunes changed. After suffering through stormy seas, his ragged ships returned days later. Misunderstandings soon arose which resulted in his murder. A tall white British memorial stands on the edge of Kealakekua Bay as a tribute to Cook’s early explorations. The Big Island has many public mountain biking trail possibilities listed at Big Island Mountain Bike Association’s www.interpac.net/~mtbike . Ten routes are described, rated for difficulty, and mapped in detail. You'll be able to choose from vigorous trail rides to family fun along the shoreline.
Maui offers a unique cycling experience. Maui Downhill will shuttles tourists up the Haleakala volcano to see the crater sunrise, then guides visitors on an exhilarating bicycle ride down the crater! Picked up before dawn, we early birds put on canary yellow all-weather outfits with red “beaked” helmets.
Our descent continued onto country roads and into “cowboy-style” Makawao. After continuing our ride between pineapple and sugar cane fields, we arrived in funky Paia town. Matt high fived us as our 38-mile dream ride ended at sea level on Paia’s beach! What an adventure! Hawaii offers many exhilarating cycling possibilities. Tom Koch cycled these very do-able Islands. His up close and personal Six Islands on Two Wheels provides insights other travel books miss. His book not only provides inspiration to bring your health machine to every Island, but presents interesting local history, useful camping information, as well as a plethora of practical cycling suggestions. It’s time to embrace a new Aloha perspective!! So pack up those sunglasses, beach towels snorkeling gear, bicycles and a spirit of adventure!! Whether cycling is confined to short errands or outings or becomes your general transportation, a new zest will be added to Hawaiian holidays. Now you’re on your way to some unforgettable pedals in paradise. Photography by Chris Millikan Further information:Fair Winds Maui Downhill |
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What do you take for a sun-fun Hawaiian
vacation? We pack sunglasses, beach towels, snorkeling gear, and
bicycles. Bicycle adventures should not be detoured by too little
imagination and too much inertia. Rethink and recycle your holiday! Is
your trip about tropical gridlocks, see-food-and-eat diets, and lounge
potato existences? Or could your vacation be about relaxation, health and
adventure? You could pedal away mainland stress, then spend that saved car
rental expense on more good times! You could regenerate your body and soul
as well as rediscover your human potential. 
Hawaii exudes a bicycle friendliness. Bicycle shops
abound to readily rent, repair or give good advice. Most congested roads
have bicycle shoulders. Accustomed to cyclists, local motorists
courteously share their roads. If distances or terrain seem too
challenging, buses are often equipped to transport cyclists along major
routes. Many hotels and condominiums furnish extra services for cyclists’
needs. Some Resorts and Youth Hostels provide bicycles. Paradise can be car
free and carefree!
I always paid my respects to Hawaii’s first church.
Mokuaikaua was built of lava rock and coral in 1837 by sailing ship
deserters, who made this paradise home. They crafted Mokuaikaua’s ohia wood
structure and paneled it with koa wood. Across from the church stands
Hulihe’e Palace. Six feet and 400 pounds, Princess Ruth Keelikolani resided
there in regal fashion. Her size demonstrated Hawaiian prosperity and
dignity. Palace furnishings accommodated her dimensions. Both Mokuaikaua
and the Hulihe’e Palace are open for tours.
We returned to the Kamehameha Hotel luau grounds just
before sunset to experience the Royal Hawaiian pageantry of King
Kamehameha’s Luau. After a lei aloha greeting, two Mai Tais, three hulas
and four whoop it up tattoos, conchs called out the arrival of the royal
outrigger canoes. Chanters paid homage to the noble entourage. After
“Kamehameha the Great” led us, his royal guests, to witness the kalua pig
extracted from the imu (underground oven), we enjoyed a sumptuous luau.
Royal entertainers staged a full range of Polynesian dances. Our evening
ended with a moonlit pedal along Allii Drive, bordered with night blooming
cereus, waving palms and crashing surf.
Keahau Bay, birthplace of King Kamehameha, was a short
pedal south of our condo. Leaving our bikes secured there, we set sail on
the Fair Wind to Kealakekua Bay. After enjoying a cruise perspective
of the Big Island, we entered the extraordinary marine sanctuary. We were
treated to sightings of flying fish and acrobatic spinner dolphins. Then we
enjoyed snorkeling in pristine water, thriving with marine life. The Bay
pulsated with colorful life as well as embraced fascinating Island history.
Maui also offers many opportunities for cycling fun and
adventure. Miles of well-shouldered highways begin at Maui’s two airports
that connect to the popular Kihei and Kaanapali areas. Level Kihei Road
stretches along numerous beaches, parks and shopping areas. The best
snorkeling, however, lies to the south. After pedaling south and upward
through Wailea’s sumptuous resorts and golf courses, riders soon will are
rewarded by a more natural and scenic landscape. The road winds above
Makena Landing, then swoops down follow the long crescent of Makena Beach
onto the lava-strewn shores of Ahihi Marine Sanctuary and through a lava
flow into La Perousse Bay.
After witnessing a glorious sunrise, our guide Matt
gave us a safety talk and encouraged everyone to try out their sturdy, drum
braked, wide tired bicycles around the parking lot. Then we lined up single
file. Matt roared, “Let’s kick asphalt!” From the summit’s moonscape, we
zigzagged downward. At 10,000-feet, every island view was spectacular!
Leaving the rugged volcanic area, we passed through aromatic eucalyptus
groves, lush rolling pastures, fragrant flower farms and into Kula, where a
hearty Hawaiian breakfast awaited us.