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Maui Off Starboard!

Ocean Adventures!

By Rick Millikan

After discovering Maui’s fabulous beaches and “hang loose” style, tourists often return to make this paradise their home away from home. We decided to revitalize our holiday and embark for an island perspective and into ocean adventures.

Whale activity can be seen from many Maui beaches.  It’s colossal entertainment! For closer encounters of the baleen kind, we boarded Pacific Whale Foundation’s Ocean Odyssey.  Vessels may approach within 100 yards.  Curious whales narrow that gap.

Just outside Maalea Harbor, Humpback mothers and calves frolicked.  “Ooos and aaahs!”  followed the bonded duos’ graceful surfaces, acrobatic breaches and dives!  Escort males aggressively made splashy crashing head lunges, flipper flops, and tail slaps.

“Whales don’t find food here. So why do Humpbacks leave the rich northern Pacific feeding areas to winter here?” I asked.

“If they stayed, their calves would be easy prey for Orcas.  Cold water would also sap energy and the growth calories calves need. Humpbacks migrate 2,500 miles to this safe, warm-water nursery. Here, calves daily gain over 100 pounds!” explained an on board naturalist.

After disembarking at the Maalea quay, we strolled up to the nearby Maui Ocean Center  www.mauioceancenter.com. Its Whale Discovery Center activities developed further empathy for and insight into these magnificent mammals. Aquariums presented unequaled opportunities to understand Hawaiian marine life.  We soon learned that vibrant fish colors not only identify species, but also advertise maturity, gender and toxicity.  Some fish, like wrasses, change both color and sex!

While sitting in the deep-sea aquarium’s thick Plexiglas tunnel, a variety of big fish swam lazily above and around us. A naturalist spoke about their lives. “...Sharks and sting rays are born alive in shallow waters.  There, offspring can avoid predators.”  If ever confronted by these marine madonnas, I would be a most respectful snorkeler!

Two days later we drove to historic Lahaina to board Pacific Whale Foundation’s “Lanai Spinner Dolphin Watch and Snorkel” Catamaran.  In the 1800’s Lahaina was a major whaling port; now this seaport acts as the busy hub of ocean adventures. Our Catamaran was moored nearby the Carthaginian, once one of Lahaina’s 400 whaling brigs and now a whaling museum.

After we slipped out of Lahaina’s picturesque harbor, aromatic kona coffee, sweet coconut muffins, papaya, and succulent pineapple were served. As Maui shrank in the distance, whales often entertained us.  Captain Tom would veer off course to pause and take in their acrobatics, then piloted our boat onward to Lanai.

Upon arrival, a naturalist stressed several considerations before the plunge.  “...To protect the reef community, don’t step on the coral, or feed the fish!”  This naturalist guided a reef tour.

Manele Bay’s protective reef and rock formations provided crystal water views of magnificently colored coral and fish!

I eloquently burbled to a fellow snorkeler. “Snorkeling’s great! Better than bird watching, eh?  Think how it allows such close observations and associations in the reef community!  It’s marine nirvana!”

 “You saw a marine iguana?” He misunderstood my ecstasy.

“No, but there’s a snowflake moray under that rock!”  I gibbered and pointed.

After Captain Tom barbecued mahi mahi, chicken and veggie burgers for his hungry seafarers, he steered us back over a wind-whipped chop to the Lahaina Town docks. The Pacific Whale Foundation www.pacificwhale.org promotes research and conservation as well as educating the public.  Thanks to efforts like theirs, Maui waters have become a national marine sanctuary. That pristine nature should never be lost.

Maui proved more than a paradise retreat. Breathe in the salt air. Maui is an island to launch sea adventures.  Memorable voyages of discovery may await your next visit.

Photography by Chris Millikan

“Humpback Breaching” Photo © Pacific Whale Foundation

For further information:

Pacific Whale Foundation   800-whale-1-1  www.pacificwhale.org

Maui Ocean Center   808-270-7000   www.mauioceancenter.com

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