^TM

Nicaragua’s Solentiname Islands

The Islands That Inspired an Art Movement

By Sandra Scott

Paintbrushes have replaced the guns.  Today only the occasional shriek of a bird defending its nest pierces the quiet and solitude of the Solentiname Islands.  Tourists, instead of soldiers, explore the 36 islets that make up the archipelago located at the southern end of Lake Nicaragua.  Now that peace has broken out, the friendly Nicaraguans proudly show off the unspoiled beauty of their country and the talents of their artisans.

{place picture 1 about here}The artists readily open their homes to visitors and eagerly display their paintings.  The home of Rodolfo Arelleno on La Venda Island in the Solentiname Archipelago is typical of the island homes.  The house of weathered wood, perched on stilts on the hillside is nearly hidden by the dense tropical growth.

Rodolfo and his family paint by the open window in the light of the sun.  Everywhere he looks there is a scene waiting to be captured forever in paint.  The deep green of the tropical growth, the azure waters, the robin egg blue of the sky, the pure white of the egret, and the brilliant red of the hibiscus all make their way to his canvas.

In the Arellano home painting is the way of life.  Rodolfo Arellano, and his wife, Clarissa, inspired by the lifestyle and beauty of the Solentiname Islands, produce primitive paintings of world renown.  Their daughter, Silvia, is gaining a reputation to equal that of her father.  Silvia's young son prepares for his future as an artist by carving, then painting, birds made of balsa.

The love of the land and of painting is passed from one generation to the next.  The paintings glorify the tropical rain forest and the serene lifestyle on the Solentiname Islands.  Arellano's painting, El Paraiso, shows the beauty of the rain forest, with man and nature living in harmony. In his painting, La Quema, the birds and animals frantically flee the devastation brought on by the burning of the rain forest.  Many of the paintings detail tranquil everyday scenes such as fishing.

The artists of the Solentiname Islands hope that their paintings will cause an appreciation for the rain forest and a respect for those who live there.  In turn, it is hoped that this appreciation will lead to a commitment to preserve the rapidly diminishing rain forests.

In 1979, two years after most of the buildings on the main island were destroyed in the revolution, Ernesto Cardenal brought new life to the islands.  Impressed by the talents of the Solentiname inhabitants, Cardenal established a communal society of artists, poets, and craftsmen.  A school trained the local inhabitants in the art of painting.  Cardenal, a Nicaraguan poet, the former Minister of Culture, and a Catholic priest, still maintains a home on the main island.  Even though the school has disbanded art continues to flourish on the islands.

{place picture two about here}Most visitors drawn to the islands because of the artists quickly fall under the magical spell of the islands.  Here one can shed completely the pressures of the world and fall into the easy pace of the islands.

The islands are ideal for sport fishing.  In fact, some of the islanders still make their living from fishing.  The waters of Lake Nicaragua are noted for their tarpon, freshwater sharks, sawfish, and swordfish.  Even though rarely seen, the shark is the only known fresh water shark.  For those looking for a good fight, the tarpon, averaging around 60 pounds, is reputed to put up a longer and tougher fight than any other fish in Central America.

Lake Nicaragua, the largest lake in Central America and one of the largest lakes in the world, wasn't always peaceful and quiet.  During the 1600 and 1700 Lake Nicaragua and the Rio San Juan formed an important sea link between Granada, the Caribbean coast, and Europe.  The area has seen the likes of the Spanish conquistadors, the pirate Henry Morgan, and Horatio Nelson.

During the 1800's, steamships puffed their way between the Caribbean and the Pacific.  In the 1850's gold, goods, and passengers were transported to and from the gold fields of California.  In the early nineteen hundreds, after the first attempt at a Panamanian canal failed, the Rio San Juan, in conjunction with Lake Nicaragua, became the route of choice for the building of a transisthmus canal.  Hopes were dashed when the second attempt to build the Panama Canal was successful.  This was a blessing in disguise, because the area has retained much of its natural character and serenity.

On the largest islands, Macarron, there is a small museum where pre-Columbian artifacts are still in the process of being organized.  The museum also honors the islanders who died in the recent revolution.  Nearby, under the shade of a tree cloaked in red blooms, is a small church.  The interior is decorated with colorful pictures similar to the balsa carvings of Silvia's young son.

{place picture 3 about here)The islands are perfect for bird watching and hiking.  The area is home to 76 species of birds and a numerous variety of flowers.  In the town of Mancarron the houses, built by the Swedish government, line the long main street.  The people are friendly and there is always a soccer game in progress.

On one of the smaller islands, at the hacienda of Bosco Cantera, it is possible to play the part of a cowboy.  Besides raising cows, Cantera rents horses to those who want to explore the countryside.  After a hot dusty ride, a refreshing swim in the cool waters is a must.

On a small island, La Vendida, petroglyphs carved in the rocks at the entrance to a cave add an element of mystery. They are one of the few remains of the earliest inhabitants of the islands.  Little is known of these people, probably the Chichans, but similar petroglyphs are found in other area of Central America.

The Islands are one of the most remote and unsoiled parts of Nicaragua.  Boat service is available from San Carlos.  San Carlos can be reached from Granada by boat or overland from Managua. The islands are readily accessible from Costa Rica are often included as part of a Rio San Juan eco-tourist package. 

The Solentiname Archipelago is home to about 1800 people.  The fame of the artists will bring people to the islands, but when they spread the word about the untouched beauty of the islands, people will come to this paradise, not only for the paintings but to enjoy the beauty of the rain forest. And, that is just what Rodolfo and his family wants to achieve with their paintings.

If you go:

http://centralamerica.com/nicaragua/

http://www.lonelyplanet.com/destinations/central_america/nicaragua/obt.htm

Back to TravelLady Magazine