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Aranui 3: Freighter to ParadiseBy Mary Ashcraft
Aranui 3
The first view of the Marquesan people will be of the powerfully built, tattooed sailors of the Aranui 3, as they manage the massive cranes on the ship towering over the huge cargo doors and load the ship for its long journey. The hole is big enough to admit tons of supplies ranging from construction tractors to sports catamarans to crates of grocery items, and building supplies of all kinds. The Aranui is the absolute lifeline of the Marquesas. On the uppermost deck, presiding over the loading and checking the banks of computers and sophisticated navigation equipment is Captain Mapuhi Taputo, a powerfully built Marquesan with a lifetime of experience sailing these waters. He is a descendant of the greatest ocean navigators of all time---the ancient Polynesians.
In great contrast to the business half of the ship, Aranui’s stern is all cruise ship, accommodating 200 passengers in comfortable cabins or staterooms, or dormitories some with outside windows and some with private decks and picture windows. The staff is a multi lingual crew of Marquesans, Tahitians and French (all speak English) from Marquesan cruise director Francis to French head chef, Willy Kobylt. Willy makes certain everything goes like clockwork in the dining salon starting with a continental breakfast, (eggs on request), and then two gourmet meals daily with a choice of wine. There is an inviting lounge with self-serve tea and coffee all day plus four o’clock tea with a variety of sweets and, in addition, a library, conference and video rooms, fresh water swimming pool, and broad sun and star decks. The gracious, unofficial hostess and part owner of the Aranui 3, is the delightful Sophie Wong, making certain all her passengers feel at home. The pleasant informality of the ship is underscored when Captain Taputo at the end of a day at sea joins other musicians of the crew at the pool deck bar to play typical Polynesian music on his Marquesan ukelele, or homemade bass. There are no stiff uniforms here as the captain and his crew, many with traditional Marquesan tatoos, are dressed most generally in tee shirts, shorts and plastic sandals. Aranui, in Marquesan, translates roughly as “Great Highway,” and so begins the journey on the Great Highway. Only two days of the 16-day cruise are at sea with no land in sight as Aranui makes the long haul to and from the island of Tahiti to the Tuamotu Archipelago, the first and last day of each voyage. Takapoto Island on the Tuamotus is a low lying, almost featureless motu or coral reef atoll, and Aranui must anchor off shore just outside the razor sharp coral underwater wall. This is the time that passengers have their first experience going ashore in whale boats and wet landings. The sailors have this down to a science. It is a choreographed dance, this loading of passengers in the whaleboats, and seeing them safely ashore. Gauging the rise and fall of the ocean swells, the sailors on the wet and sometimes slippery stone docking sites grab a passenger while sailors in the boat lift at the same time and, voila, terra firma. Once the passenger is in the secure grasp of these Marquesan sailors, there is nothing to fear. The Tuamotu Islands
The archipelago of the Tuamotus extends over a thousand miles. Its islands, once the jagged peaks of volcanoes that were formed millions of years ago have been worn away by millennia of erosion by wind and water. The atolls now are almost featureless islands just feet above sea level and surrounded by coral reefs. The rings of coral enclose placid lagoons rich in sea life and acting as a barrier for the low-lying Tuamotus against the sometime angry Pacific waves. The atolls now are so low to the horizon and difficult to see that many ships through the centuries have crashed to their doom against razor-sharp coral walls. Those motus that are inhabited produce little that is exportable, and the people have led a subsistence-level existence. In recent years, this has changed when enterprising Japanese found international markets for the black pearls that thrive in those waters. These days, the Tuamotus are where the rare Tahitian black pearls are cultivated and have become the main export of some of the islands. On the Island of Takapoto, next to a clear blue-green lagoon where passengers may swim, islanders in open-sided tents lay out these pearls in their varying degrees of perfection to tempt Visiting Aranui passengers. There are loose pearls and some crafted into pieces of jewelry for sale. They are expensive, but there are no better bargains for them anywhere else. The Marquesas Islands
The Marquesas were formed between 7.2 and 1.35 million years ago when great sprays of molten magma erupted through the sea floor and thrust volcanoes above the sea surface leaving high, pointed mountains that are now covered with thick green vegetation. Even though they were all formed in this manner, each has its own defining characteristics where some of the volcanoes actually thrust themselves up around other volcanoes in strange and convoluted ways. Each has its own mysterious appeal. The Polynesians discovered the islands about 150 BC. They called themselves The Men, Te Enana, and named the islands Land of Men or Te Henua Enana. The islands to be visited in the Marquesas are Ua Pou, Nuku Hiva, Hiva Oa, Fatu Iva, Ua Huka, Fakarava, and Tahuata, where the sounds of these names roll off the tongue like a Polynesian love song. Fortunately, for modern day adventurers and explorers, the seldom-visited outposts of the South Seas remain unspoiled and stunning. These islands project a wild and dramatic beauty that must have been what Tahiti was like150 years ago. The Marquesas have attracted and sheltered famous artists, writers, and scientists. Paul Gauguin painted and sculpted mostly on Tahiti and Hiva Oa. Sailor Herman Melville jumped ship, lived in the cannibal valleys of Nuku Hiva, and later wrote about it in his novel “Typee.” Scottish writer Robert Louis Stevenson in search of a healthy climate sailed the South Seas and was deeply touched by the landscapes and textures of Nuku Hiva. Stimulated by those experiences, he wrote “Treasure Island” and “Kidnapped.” Charles B. Nordhoff and James Hall, also inspired by Nuku Hiva, wrote classics books that were later made into movies, among them the many versions of “Mutiny on the Bounty.” Thor Heyerdahl, the Norwegian ethnologist and adventurer, planned and led the famous Kon Tiki expedition and produced a journal to explain his controversial theories that the Polynesians originated in South America. North American writer and revolutionary Jack London sailed his ketch to the South Seas and about his first sight of Nuka Hiva, he wrote, “One caught one’s breath and felt the pang that is almost hurt, so exquisite was the beauty of it.” Well known music composer and singer Jacques Brel escaped his turbulent life in France and lived his last years in Hiva Oa. He is buried not far from Paul Gauguin in the same sunny cemetery. Ua Pou Island
Ua Pou Island is the first stop in the Marquesan group in the dramatic bay fronting the soaring cliffs behind Hakahau Village. In the center of the village a table of freshly cut tropical fruit in trays is set out for passengers to refresh themselves while enjoying their welcome ceremony. In the old days, before the missionaries, women painted their naked bodies in bright colors. Today, their love of colors is carried over in the mix of bright and flowered print fabrics of their pareus. Ladies and girls with flower wreaths on their heads and friendly smiles, welcome visitors with ka’oha nui, present them with a handmade fresh flower hei (lei in Hawaii), and put the national Marquesan Tiare flower behind one ear. If the person has a mate, the flower goes behind the left ear. However, if the person is still looking for someone, the flower is worn behind the right ear----a much better idea than the singles bar. There is always a welcome dance very akin to the Hawaiian Hula, with lovely hand and arm movements and wild hip movements. It is the same on all of the islands.
Ua Pou is known for its wood carvings and some of its masterful works may be seen in the St. Etienne church with its many extraordinary religious carvings. The outstanding pulpit is carved from one piece of tou wood depicting God’s ship cutting through the waves of purgatory. The base of the pulpit is covered with tattoo designs, Tiki faces, and hellish animals. The simple, wooden altar is covered by a cloth with typical Tapa motifs and an abundance of tropical flowers. The population is Catholic, but mass is given in Marquesan, and the religious statues all appear to be from one of the local tribes. Aranui is bringing visitors to the islands who are interested in and appreciate the traditional crafts like wood carvings, stone sculpture, expertly decorated Tapa cloth, unique jewelry from local shells to very high quality jewelry by artist Jean Marc made from local exotic woods like ebony, sandlewood or tou wood. Many local artists are now returning to their islands to continue these traditional crafts. After exploring Hakahau and shopping, it is time for lunch at Tata Rosalie’s Restaurant for a feast where tables are groaning with local delicacies such as roast pig, French-fried breadfruit, raw fish marinated in lime juice and coconut milk, seafood salads, banana and taro puddings and local beer. The sweet fragrance of the drooping flowers of the Ylang Ylang trees growing around the restaurant blends with the aromas from the busy kitchen. Ua Pou’s tranquil village is also where those living in more remote islands come to transact business, and children, at nine years of age, leave their far away villages to continue their schooling. Bye the way, visitors are welcome to visit the school. Hiva Oa Island
Hiva Oa is the second largest island in the Marquesas and has a ridge of peaks ranging over 3,300 feet. Puanau village is noted for its abundant and colorful gardens and for Tiki Valley which has the largest collection of ceremonial Tikis on the Marquesas, plus rocks with petroglyphs. Passengers may take the forty- minute up hill, hike from the dock to Meae Lipona, the Tiki site, or opt to jump in the back of a four-wheel drive for the trip. At the foot of a volcanic cliff, beneath Ironwood, Pandanas, Coconut, Mango, Papaya, and Breadfruit trees are large stone foundations on several levels. In the shade of these trees stands the unusual eight foot tall Tiki, Takaii, that is believed to be a powerfull tribal chieftan and warrior. Only on Easter Island are there larger Tikis than Takaii. Another Tiki known as the MakaiiTaua (te) Pepe, is thought to be one of the few representations of a female Tiki. It is shown in a horizontal position and possibly giving birth. Other Tikis stand their silent watch over this once sacred place, and islanders feel that ancient ghosts still wander this peaceful site.
Hiva Oa acquired international attention as the South Seas paradise immortalized in the paintings of French artist Paul Gauguin who lived his final years on the island. Recently, the May 3-18 Aranui cruise coincided with the hundredth anniversary of his death. Friends, strangers, beauty queens bagpipe players from Brittany, and a host of international journalists joined some of Gauguin;s descendents as they gathered at the flower covered gravesite to remember his life. He is buried in Cavalry Cemetery above the town of Atuona overlooking the bright blue waters of Traitor’s Bay. To prepare Aranui passengers for this celebration, lectures were given on board by noted scholars, Dr. Elizabeth Childs, associate professor Washington University in St. Louis and John R. Klein, associate professor University of Missouri-Columbia, experts on Paul Gauguin and Henri Matisse. Their fascinating and colorful talks presented new insights about these two sometime friends and complex human beings. In Atuona is the recently inaugurated Gauguin Museum, and a replica of his island house, Maison du Jour or House of Pleasure.
Each island has its own personality because of different tribal customs and the dictates of Mother Nature even though they all have dramatic mountains with diverse vegetation, waterfalls cascading into lush green valleys, and many streams flowing to the sea. Fortunately, for the rest of us, the Marquesans are trying to hold on to their traditions as they progress into the modern world. Maybe in some small way, Aranui and its shiploads of present day explorers are helping this to happen as they enjoy the pleasures of a distinct and ancient culture. This is a cruise for all of those who have the spirit of adventure, and romance in the heart.
Some Useful Links:Compagnie Polynisienne de Transport Maritime (CPTM) / Aranui: http://www.aranui.com/destinations.htm Cruise & Freighter Association: http://www.travltips.com/aranui.html Freighter World Cruises, Inc.: http://www.freighterworld.com/places/southpac.html Photo Images by: Rod Lopez-Fabrega & Mary Ashcraft |
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The
doorway to paradise opens in legendary Tahiti. The most common fantasy of
the island of Tahiti is of rippling pools, cascading waterfalls, lush
jungles and Palm tree studded beaches. Though still an interesting place to
visit, the capitol, Papeete, in reality is a colorful, crowded jumble of
human diversity, bumper to bumper traffic, an interesting mix of colonial
and 20th century architecture, botanical gardens, five-star fantasy hotels,
and Le Marche, a large, and fascinating municipal marketplace. Parallel to
its main street are a series of park areas and its busy harbor. Docked in
this maze of sea vessels and pier warehouses is the new state-of-the-art
freighter and passenger ship Aranui 3. All hands are on the dock and
readying the ship to take present day adventurers and romantics for a voyage
of a lifetime as it delivers its cargo 800 miles north of Tahiti to the
remote and seldom visited islands of the Tuamotus and Marquesas in French
Polynesia.
