Carmen, the Wine, Should be an Opera

By Darryl Beeson

Too many of the wineries from Chile have rested upon their laurels. Once recognized as great wine for little money, too many have become inexpensive wines that taste inexpensive. Not so with Vina Carmen.

Carmen Sauvignon Blanc, Valle Central, 2000
Price $8
Rating 89

Place your nose in the glass and observe the delicate grass/herb with a hint of lemon, mild melon. Sip and examine a mouthfull of soft dried herb, sautéed golden delicious apple, a bit of citrus and melon. The wine is crisp but not overly tart.

Vina Carmen, the oldest of the Chilean wine brands, founded in 1850, has

launched a new generation of wine. Fresh, bright, the fruit and the terroir's "soil" complexity are obvious. Carmen's peaceful vineyards are just one hour from the urbanly-complex city of Santiago.

Enjoy the Carmen Sauvignon Blanc with lightly skewered scallops and shrimp, or a simple salad of hearts of palm with pickled onion.

Carmen Cabernet Sauvignon, Valle Central, Chile 2000
Price $8
Rating 90

Consider an aroma of blackberry and then, not peppermint, but black pepper and vibrant mint. A sip re-inforces the blackberry, then there appears mocha/baker's chocolate, mint, and lime. This is complex wine. The price is crazy compared to the quality.

Winemaker Matias Lecaros belongs to a tradition of Chilean family vine growers rooted in the 17th century. In addition, he has worked vintages in the Rhone region of France. Lecaros sees the big picture of quality winemaking and translates the wines of Carmen into perfect portrayals of what fine Chilean wine can be.

This luscious $8 red wine is a great match to grilled meat, or even some seafoods grilled. Avoid assertive spice as the Carmen Cabernet Sauvignon is delicate but complex.

Carmen "Nativa" Chardonnay, Maipo, 1999
Price $15
Rating 89

The nose is delicate apple, a sip reveals orange/lemon nuance as well as fresh apple, laid in with somber mineral elements and restrained oak.

Says winemaker Matias Lecaros, "This wine is produced from grapes comimg from 30-year-old vines located in Alto Jahuel within the Maipo Valley. These wines have been grown using certified organic methods since 1994."

Try the Carmen "Nativa" Chardonnay with grilled, or even breaded and fried chicken.

Carmen Grand Vidure (Carmenere) 60%/Cabernet Sauvignon 40%, Maipo 1999
Price $15
Rating 91

The nose is dusty, earthy, with black fruit. The flavor profile is of plum, blackberry, dust and rich composted earth, mushrooms, mint. This red is very complex. Enjoy this bountiful red wine with seared sirloin. Enough said.

Carmen Petite Sirah Reserve, Maipo, 1999
Price $17
Rating 90

Aromas and flavors of raspberry and black pepper, softly lean dark fruit, earthy, roasted nuts, cassis, a drop of lime and a zesty bit of sliced peel. Match this wine with grilled sausage and garlic mashed potatoes.

Darryl Beeson travels the world looking for great wine values. In the past, he has been wine steward or cellar master for The Mansion on Turtle Creek, Voltaire, and The Adolphus Hotel. Not one for stuffiness or secret handshakes relative to wine, this Texan might now be described as a "ki-yi-yippee sommelier, sommelier." Beeson reports on wine, spirits, food and travel for numerous publications.