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Dwarika’s:Sleeping and Dining Among the Art of Ancient KathmanduBy Joyce DaltonWhile hoteldom claims a fair share of deluxe properties that incorporate art, antiques and/or traditional elements into their décor, Dwarika’s, situated in the Kathmandu Valley of Nepal, is perhaps the world’s only hotel to be constructed for the express purpose of preserving the unique architecture and art of its culturally rich environs. It all started with a jog. During his run one day back in 1952, the late Dwarika Das Shrestha passed carpenters cutting up two intricately carved and engraved wooden pillars, which only hours before had been part of an old building, demolished to make way for a contemporary structure. What’s more, bits of centuries’ old carved woodwork, destined for firewood, lay amidst the rubble. To Shrestha, this was not only the destruction of something fine and beautiful, but of his and all Nepal’s ancient culture, as well. On impulse, he convinced the workmen to exchange the damaged pillars for money plus new lumber. Thus began a quest to protect his nation’s wooden heritage.
There is a serenity and beauty in its courtyards and within the structures, surrounded as they are by 15th century hand-carved doors, window frames, lintels, pillars, friezes and sculptures of times long past. Guests and masterpieces live together, not separated from one another by showcases, museum guards and security cameras. The journey from that single salvaged pillar to a hotel of 73 guestrooms has been painstakingly accomplished over many years. It began when an American woman, working on a Masters’ thesis, needed a place to stay. Shrestha built a small guest house for her using ancient wood. Not surprisingly, she loved it and brought others to admire her temporary Nepalese home. Some local friends, however, assumed the Shresthas were short of funds if they had to use old items. After some time, a cow shed was converted into two rooms (minus the cow) and three more were added over the garage. According to Ambica Shrestha, the founder’s widow, so many antique pieces were stored around the grounds, it resembled a warehouse or museum. From outside the walls which surround the property, no one could guess what beauty lay within. By 1977, the room count had grown to ten and Dwarika’s officially opened as an inn; in 1981, a new 10-room structure was added. Today’s 73 guestrooms is the maximum the proprietor considers desirable. However, as is typical with upscale lodgings, Mrs. Shrestha always is thinking of ways to make the property more attractive and comfortable for her guests. During the summer of 2003, a pool was added and a fitness and wellness spa are scheduled. Dwarika’s offers three dining choices, including a fine Nepali restaurant, and several cocktail lounges. It has its own heritage workshop for restoring old treasures (each piece is numbered and catalogued) and building furniture. In fact, every piece of wooden furniture is made in this workshop, as are the terracotta floor tiles. Nepalese hand-woven carpets accent each guestroom as do wall niches holding unique objects d’art. Additional touches of Nepalese culture, such as signs of various deities carved into desks and mandalas outlined in the floors, can be found on closer inspection. Lighting is designed after old oil lamps used in temples and the homes of the wealthy. Since TVs are out of character in such surroundings, they are placed in guests’ rooms only on request.
Before he passed away in 1992, Shrestha had made sketches for what is now the front of the property, including the lobby area. All buildings are constructed of traditional bricks. Since few craftsmen know the old technique, only a certain number of bricks can be produced each year.
Alternately, guests may choose alfresco dining at The Terrace courtyard restaurant or international dishes (Continental, Chinese and Indian specialties as well as snacks) at the Toran Restaurant and Gardens. The original family cottage houses the Astamangal bar. For a property that has been called a “museum hotel” and a “collectors’ paradise,” it is hardly surprising that Dwarika’s has received the PATA (Pacific Asia Travel Association) Heritage Award. The hotel also was included in Asia’s Best Hotels and Resorts, based on a customer survey of more than 115,000 properties, and in Distinction World 2003, a collection of the world’s finest lodgings. Dwarika’s was the only hotel in Nepal so honored. Contact Information:Dwarika’s Hotel Rates run $135 single and $155 double for superior rooms, $175 single and $195 double for deluxe rooms and $300 to $1,500 for suites. Lunch at Dwarika’s Krishnarpan restaurant is $13.00 for four courses. Dinners are: $19 for six courses, $22 for nine courses, $25 for 12 courses and $28 for 16 courses. Facilities and services include airport transfers, car rentals, currency exchange, laundry, a business center, meeting center accommodating up to 100 persons, a library of travel and cultural books, travel services, safety deposit boxes, shuttle service for shopping, and Tai Chi, yoga and Qi Gong daily in the garden. Images by Joyce Dalton |
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As visitors to this Himalayan kingdom well know,
Kathmandu’s temples, sculptures, bronzes and terra-cotta comprise a living
museum of Newari art. Thanks to one man and his determination to preserve
his city’s cultural legacy, Dwarika’s Hotel allows guests to live among the
architectural and artistic beauty of the past. As a hotel spokesperson put
it, the property “gives asylum to wounded wood carvings” and proves that
tourism can aid in preserving a nation’s heritage and culture. 
No two guestrooms are alike in layout or furnishings.
In addition to 10 superior rooms, 59 are categorized as deluxe. The four
suites include a self-contained penthouse Royal Suite offering private
butler service and panoramic views of the mountains and Kathmandu Valley.
Accommodations are housed in several buildings facing courtyards of fine old
trees and brilliant flowers. Two deluxe rooms claim huge sunken baths with
glass walls overlooking private walled gardens. In every room, a coffee
table holds a game, described as somewhat similar to Chinese checkers,
shaped like a gold foil tiger. The entry of one room contains a design of
eight lucky signs cut into bricks. Composed of Nepali herbs, amenities
contain no chemicals. 
The courtyard serves as a pleasant respite, perhaps for
an evening cocktail, while a flutist and gorgeously costumed classical
dancer perform in front of a 13th century carved doorway. Moving on to dinner at Dwarika’s Krishnarpan restaurant, diners
are greeted by waitresses from various Nepalese ethnic groups clad in
traditional dress, each outfit authentic and unique, one from the other,
down to the jewelry and headdress. Low wooden chairs with thick comfy
cushions are aligned along tables designed with centuries old lattice
woodwork in the two dining rooms. Red and black predominate and the décor
includes intricately carved frames around the mirrors. Waitresses pour rice wine from silver Newari vessels, each topped, as
tradition dictates, by a bird. Plates, bowls, crockery and glasses are
crafted in traditional style and menu cards of handmade Nepali paper, are
printed individually for each guest
No
rushing through dinner here. A typical meal features six to 16 courses; most
dishes are highlighted by aromatic and tasty Nepali spices or herbs. Such
feasts have been termed a “culinary tour of Nepal.” The gentle grace of the
waitresses, the elegant service and the artful arrangement of each dish
combine to create the most pleasant of dining experiences. My dinner’s final
course was comprised of five combined nectars: milk, honey, yoghurt, butter
and sugar.