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Go West Young Man...And WomanA West Texas Honeymoon AdventureBy Autumn RheaWho says a renegade centipede, howling coyote and a mutant grasshopper can’t form an ideal welcoming committee for two newlyweds on their West Texas honeymoon adventure? We were set for our 1,200-mile journey, armed with cowboy hats, Skittles candy and the notion that our urban habits would soon be dissolving into the thick Texas dust.
After a late-night dinner at the hotel restaurant, Jett’s Place, (one of the few opened until 9pm) we called it a night in the historical abode. The Hotel Paisano was the backdrop for the 1956 movie “Giant” starring Elizabeth Taylor, Rock Hudson and James Dean. Dean had starred in films prior to “Giant” but it is known as his premiere debut. (Coincidentally, Dean’s character in the film is named Jett.) The hotel has recently been renovated and is stylishly decorated with colorful tile, stained glass and modern touches. However, the rooms maintain their historical appeal.
After experiencing Marfa’s consumer side, we were ready for a little high art, Donald Judd style. Tours are given Thursday through Sunday at The Chinati Foundation and we arrived on a Monday. Luckily we were given the abbreviated tour and were allowed to view the exhibits independently. The Chinati Foundation is located on 340 acres of land on the site of former Fort D.A.
The sculptures’ stark metallic features offer an interesting contrast to the blue skies and fields of grass. The numerous mutant grasshoppers (officially named desert lubber grasshoppers) were the most intriguing creatures at The Chinati Foundation. They rule this part of the Earth and wear a yellow and black armor to protect them from the harsh Texas climate. Other creatures observed include lizards (although I never successfully caught a glimpse of the famed horny toad) and cleverly decorated butterflies. Although the town is known internationally for the Marfa Lights, the townspeople seemed hushed about the phenomenon. Perhaps they have tired from the tourist attraction. Regardless, we began our drive to the light observatory to be added to the list of “those who’ve seen the lights.” In the velvet dark, we sped to the observatory, eager to understand the experience. I peered through the window and suddenly witnessed a burst of light. It had to be my eyes adjusting to the dark. And then suddenly, four other lights created a collision. I knew I’d seen them and nothing would change my mind. Chris was playing the driver role in order to avoid a wreck, held back his anticipation. Once we arrived, the lights became shyer. We changed out positions and finally settled against the wall. Then, they appeared, ever so slightly. Chris gave various reasons for the lights, including that they were reflections from cars across the highway. We described them to each other as overgrown fireflies. He finally gave in and added his name to the list of those who have been enlightened. Forgive the pun.
We were lucky enough to experience the El Presidente Suite, a rustic adobe cabin, where the hot spring water flows directly into the bathtub. The springs, known for its high mineral content and healing properties, flow at a constant temperature of approximately 110 degrees. The secret getaway is primitive and you must be able to lose your city trappings in order to understand Chinati’s magic. We lit candles and a serene feeling entered us, creating that “happy place” within me that I use for escapism now. We hiked into the surrounding area and discovered various forms of animals, plants and rocks. Chris surmised what animal belonged to what paw print and I secretly hoped that we didn’t meet the print makers in the daylight. Chris attracted me to a massive rock and showed me a bright yellow centipede, enjoying its environment. Suddenly aware of our presence, it went into attack mode and literally made a leap at me. Needless to say, the nature hike ended abruptly. And the centipede went about his business, satisfied that his threat had been heeded.
After our two-day retreat at the oasis in the Chihuahuan Desert, our journey continued. We drove into Ruidoso, a small “town” and met more locals who directed us to Ojinaga, Mexico for some authentic enchiladas. Ojinaga, known to some as the most unspoiled town on the US-Mexico border, was one of the bigger cities that we encountered during our adventure. We enjoyed (very) spicy enchiladas and an attempted a Spanish conversation with our waiter. Since border security has tightened the past year, the border patrol experience was a bit unnerving. We were questioned and searched and finally able to proceed on to our next destination: Terlingua!
After conversing for a while, we learned that we had all visited the Chinati Hot Springs at the same time. Pablo talked about the richness of Terlingua. “It’s beautiful and harsh at the same time,” he said. “It’s a hard life out here, but if you find your nitch, it’s paradise.”
Terlingua’s tourist season begins in October and lasts through May and thrives as an artist community, tourist attraction and has served as an international chili cook-off location for the past thirty years. The town is also known for its white water rafting tours along the Rio Grande. Far Flung Adventures is one well-known company that provides various river packages, tailored for the adventurer, gourmet and music lover.
One particular friend we made, nicknamed Sully, played the mysterious part exceptionally well. He was sleek and intellectual, with a well-manicured long mane and a cowboy-esque sense of style. When I questioned his occupation, he responded with “I do a little of this and that.” And when I asked where he was from, he answered, “Here and there.” His mysterious nature intrigued me, but in hindsight, I believe it was my own romantic notions that made him such a secretive person. Terlingua surprisingly boasts Internet connections and coffee houses and offers and mix of the past with the present. It’s the kind of place you can disappear, but still exist. While enjoying breakfast at the Big Bend Café (also nicknamed the “Straight Café” because the law enforcement and locals often mingle there) we encountered two German tourists. I overheard their conversation about the menu. “Excuse me,” said one young man to the café waitress. “We are from Germany. What is a grit??” The waitress seemed perplexed and then preceded to give them the spiel. It was a normal exchange of information at a café on the edge of the world. Once again, we packed our car and admired the thick coat of dust that engulfed it. We were destined for Big Bend and it was a short drive from Terlingua. The fog was heavy and the mountains used their superpowers to become invisible to the naked eye. After a continuous climb uphill, the fog cleared and the world of Big Bend showed itself to us. Chris remembered family trips to the land and how it held its timelessness. After the usual photo session, we dove into a canyon and admired the Rio Grande, while singing Aretha Franklin tunes along the way. We prepared to climb into a cave and along the treacherous way, discovered the sharp-edged rock was entirely quartz. With a few near misses and arriving breathless, we claimed our stake in one of many Big Bend caves. I daydreamed that Indians once stood where I stood and saw the land from their eyes. The pristine colors and open skies left me breathless and not just from climbing towards that cave.
“Are we there yet?” screeching in my ears. After our honeymoon, my perspective has changed and the slideshow now includes visions of bursting sunsets, peaceful strangers and my brand new husband, along for the ride. For more information:http://www.marfatx.com/marfabk_store.asp http://www.chinatihotsprings.org/cgi-bin/iowa/index.html http://www.travelhero.com/prophome.cfm/id/56053/hotels/reservations/ http://www.desertsportstx.com/DS/local.html http://www.nps.gov/bibe/home.htm Images by: Autumn Rhea |
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After a day’s drive across the Lone star state, we
arrived in Marfa as the sun set. We wondered how to locate the 1930's Hotel Paisano (a Spanish nickname for the word roadrunner) without clear
directions. As I was questioning our next move, we spotted a sign with
directions to turn at the courthouse in order to find our hotel. It seems
that Marfa is easier to navigate than recently suspected.
After visiting the much-publicized Marfa Book Company
and experiencing pure joy that such a small town offered any title
imaginable, we tested some local cuisine. I sampled the chicken fried steak
and Chris ventured into cheeseburger royal territory. We observed the town’s
citizens interacting with a slow ease never before seen in “the city.” We
were even coaxed into tasting some homemade lemon meringue delight.
The permanent collection includes Judd’s 100 aluminum
works housed in two converted artillery sheds and 15 outdoor concrete works.
Other artists’ work resides there as well, including 25 sculptures by John
Chamberlain, a large outdoor piece by Claes Oldenburg and Coosje van Bruggen,
an installation by Ilya Kabakov, poems by Carl Andre and drawings and
paintings by Ingólfur Arnarsson.
We mapped our next stop to Chinati Hot Springs. We
decided unanimously to brave the Pinto Canyon Road, 20 miles of beautiful
and rugged road. We embarked on the off-road experience with the “Grease”
soundtrack blaring and dust flying precariously. We were dangerously close
to the edge of the world and it felt thrilling and terrifying
simultaneously. After twisting round and round, we finally arrived at the
Hot Springs and were met by the site’s executive director and resort
manager Wendy Wright. She shared her amazing world of adobe rooms,
peaceful canyons and healing waters with us. 
At night, we left the door open and a cool breeze
flowed into our room. We admired the wide-open skies and glistening stars.
Music drifted throughout the camp and left us feeling a calm. The calm even
remained when I awoke to coyote howls. Normally, this would throw me into a
panic. But in this atmosphere, I felt at ease with the animals.
This place has a ghostly feel, but continues to survive
on the edge of the Earth. Terlingua, interpreted to mean three languages,
lends itself to the multi-culturalism of the area. We arrived at our motel,
the Chisos Mining Company, in Easter Egg Valley. Rumor has it that it gained
its name when the current owners purchased it from the previous owner. He
stated, “You can do whatever you want with it. Just don’t be too
extravagant.” So, the natural décor color choices were pink and green
pastels. The motel was reminiscent of the 1970s and sported wood paneled
walls and blaring orange décor. However odd, the theme fit perfectly with
our attitudes. 
We drove into town and perused the tourist shop on “the
porch.” After purchasing some kitschy Tex-Mex gifts, we decided to visit La
Kiva, a unique structure of massive sandstone boulders, cut into a terrace
overlooking Terlingua Creek. The restaurant provided a dimly lit atmosphere
with an eclectic mix of music, friendly clientele and bartenders. In
particular, we befriended a bartender named Pablo. 
Terlingua was a quicksilver (mercury) mining town and
in 1902 Howard E. Perry established the Chisos Mining Company. By the end of
World War I, Terlingua quicksilver dominated the industry in the U.S. but by
1942 Perry declared bankruptcy and Terlingua became a ghost town. The ghost
town portion remains, but the rest of the town continues to evolve. 
We also patronized the Starlight Theatre restaurant and
bar, an old movie theater remodeled into an airy adobe-walled eatery, and
enjoyed margaritas and more music. The town exuded a creative vibe that many
Texas towns boast, but cannot really deliver. There is an outlaw feel to the
town and that characteristic called to me. Since I pride myself in being a
“Nancy Drew” type, I was sometimes frustrated at the locals desire to keep
information to themselves. 
West Texas has always held childhood significance to
me. I see a slideshow of flickering images including dilapidated Dairy
Queens, overpriced gasoline stations and stray tumbleweeds. I always dreaded
the daylong drive, hearing echoes of the notorious,