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A French ExperienceA trip along the Verdon riverBy Silvia Monasterolo
A good base for your holiday in the Verdon region and an ideal starting point for your exploration, is Moustiers-Sainte-Marie, a small rocky village at the back of the river and of the canyon. The town’s small buildings have been constructed on the walls of the mountains, and make up two different neighborhoods. The first you encounter is the downhill part of the village with the old bell tower and this is where most activities are based. The river cuts Moustiers-Sainte-Marie into two, giving life to small waterfalls running among the walls of the houses built on the rock. The paved alleys lead you through a maze of small shops selling mainly pottery, faïence, responsible for the villages’ fame as a source of some of Europe’s the best ceramics, as early as the 17th century. A good place to buy nice – and not too expensive – items of French pottery is La Maison Provençal, in the small town center, opposite the bell tower square. Here you can find hand-painted bowls, vases, plates and cups, or just wander freely through the shelves stuffed with the provencal-style tablecloths in the lavender-scented atmosphere. Walking to the upper part of Moustiers, you reach the town’s other church, Notre-Dame de Beauvoir, and far up, la Chaîne, a long chain connecting the two rocky needles of the mountain. There is a silver star hanging from it, which is said to have been put there by a knight as a vow to Notre-Dame de Beauvoir at the time of the Crusades. From here it is possible to enjoy an amazing view on the green waters of the lake of Sainte Croix and the surrounding countryside. It is in the outskirts of Moustiers-Sainte-Marie, among the lavender fields, that you can find the best accommodation facilities. A wonderful place to stay at is La Ferme Rose, a small country house which has been converted into a charming hotel, set in a relaxing atmosphere, just off the D952 leading to Sainte Croix de Verdon. The two-story building is – as the name suggests – a welcoming pink-washed farm house a few minutes drive from the town center. All the rooms are en-suite, and each one is furnished in a different way, but always according to the provençal style: bistro-style tables and chairs, essential but charming items. The most amazing thing is breakfast, which – if you go there during the sunny summer months – is served in the porch on the iron-wrought tables. Allow yourself enough time for the banquet before starting your exploration of another town: to properly enjoy this wonderful spread deserves not less than one hour. Apart from tea, coffee and café au lait, you will be offered fresh orange and grapefruit squash, and then still warm baguettes on which you can spread lavender honey, and at least four different types of home-made jams and marmalades. Do not miss the vanilla-flavored yoghurt, served in small glass pots, which are bought from a local farm. Unfortunately, La Ferme Rose has no restaurant, but a few minutes drive from away you can have a wonderful dinner at La Bastide de Moustiers, where the well-known French chef Alain Ducasse has converted a mas (a traditional provencal farm) in a charming restaurant with a lovely garden.
But the most amazing aspect of your travel still has to come. Driving back to Moustiers-Sainte-Marie, and following the D957 in direction of Comps-sur-Artuby, you will find yourself on the shore of the lake of Sainte-Croix, which is the biggest among the Verdon’s lakes. Its “tail” goes up along the canyon starting from Pont de Galetas, the bridge which crosses the lake on the road between the town of Moustiers-Sainte-Marie and Aiguines. This is the right place to enjoy a little bit of the “seaside life”. Just past the bridge, there is a good stretch of sand, and the shores are dotted with small stalls where you can rent rowing boats, canoes and rubber dinghies. This is a good opportunity to sail the calm waters of the lake and – just rowing below the Galetas bridge – to enter the canyon, following the stream of the Verdon river among the high rocky walls. Otherwise, you can simply hang out on the sandy beach and enjoy the warmth of the sun and the relaxing landscape.
Just off the center of Aiguines, la Corniche Sublime has its start. It is a winding road that goes into the canyon, and the locals refer to it as ‘the most beautiful scenic route in France’. While driving there, you will agree that they are right. The best thing would be walking along it instead of driving. On one side of the road, there are the rocky walls of the mountains and, on the other hand-side, the river running along its bed deep down. You will find some panomaric points to park your car and stop for a picnic on the rocks overlooking the Verdon river. Do not forget to buy your food in advance, as you are not likely to find shops or bars up there. It will be a unique experience: laying on a blanket or on the naked rock savoring fougasse (flat bread with onions, olives and anchovies) and pain au chocolat (chocolate pastry) or a buttered baguette. After your picnic, driving along the D957, you can reach Pont su l’Artuby, which is doubtless where one can have the most spectacular view on the canyon. This is also a necessary stop for the most reckless people, who can experience bungee-jumping from the parapet of the bridge down into the canyon. But of course this is for the bravest only! Maybe this area is not as well-known as it deserves to be, but all things considered, this isn’t such a bad thing for those who have discovered its charms. The hotels, restaurants and shops will never be too crammed with people, and this will give you a chance to experience the peacefulness of the place. So if you do happen to be near the Verdon area, it is worth while spending a few days there – two or three will be enough – to discover the stunning scenery provided by the course of the river. FURTHER INFORMATION:La Ferme Rose La Bastide de Moustiers Galvin R. et S. La Maison de l’Horloge Images by Tomaso Bergesio Contact Silvia Monasterolo at silvia.monasterolo@virgilio.it |
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TM
Not
too far from the well-known Côte d’Azur, one could easily be bewitched by a
less glamorous – but surely far more stunning – landscape: the Verdon, in
the French region of Hautes Alpes, not too far Nice and Montecarlo. This is
Europe’s only “canyon”, where the river Verdon has eroded the limestone
rocks and created the area’s amazing topography. The green waters of the
river running through the deep gorge, between the steep cliffs of the
canyon, will charm you at first sight.
Not
too far from Moustiers-Sainte-Marie, following the road for Sainte
Croix de Verdon, you will find yourself on a one-lane country road that runs
among the lavender fields. The view is simply stunning: ochre-colored
fields, on which the lavender bushes bloom in their violet gleam, against
the light blue sky. This is Campagne le Serre, and the stillness of the
place is interrupted only by the buzz of the bees on the lavender blossoms,
and by some small farms. Stop at Monsieur Galvin’s farm, where you can buy
their products à la ferme in a tiny shop made out of the front room
of the farm. There you can find home-made honey, sweets, soaps and small
bags of lavender. In the same area, it is possible to find other farms
selling olives, fromage de chevre (goat cheese) and lambs wool as
well. 
Following
the D957, another stop you absolutely have to do is in Aiguines, a small
town surrounded by green fields and olive groves. There is a tiny center,
with a paved square, bistros and small bars with their terraces
looking out on the main square, dominated by the bell tower. You can rest
for a little while in one of these small bars, and try pastis, the
typical drink made up of anise-flavored liqueur and ice-cold water. After
that, pay a visit to La Mason de l’Horloge, a shop on the main road of the
town where dozens of honey varieties are sold. Going through the bright
violet wooden door, you enter a room very similar to a cave, with tables
along the white-washed walls, where all the different pots of honey are on
display. The owner, Olivier, is always eager to offer tastings and advice on
his honeys, or simply to stop and have a chat. He also sells honey sweets,
which Olivier makes himself, as he does with the honey and with
lavender-scented soaps that he also sells. Then walk to the Château, the
wonderful castle of Aiguines, where you can lay on the green lawns of the
white castle with its roof made of colored ceramic tiles. It is a pity that
the building is private property, and entrance is not allowed to the public.
In any case, the view from the lawn offers a spectacular view on the lake
and on the olive groves.