Medieval Castle Stands the Test of Time

by Marilyn Loeser

Although I treasure my time traveling and visiting historic locations in the United States, the United Kingdom also draws me to its shores year after year.

With a BritRail Pass, Great Britain Heritage Pass, alone or with a friend — the opportunities to explore ancient cultures and charming hamlets lay ahead of me every time my plane touches down in London, Birmingham or Newcastle.

And like nearly every other tourist, I make sure and visit at least one castle before I head back to America. On my last visit I fell in love with Goodrich Castle — situated in the borderlands between England and Wales.

It didn’t take me long to discover two important bits of advice for anyone planning to make this trek: it’s not a site to take young children, and wear comfortable clothing and shoes.

The castle is in ruins, the victim of Parliamentarian soldiers, the Civil War and a squat little cannon — Roaring Meg. The castle has been left as it was in 1646, changed only by Mother Nature and a few structural and safety additions.

Going back in time

Construction began in the late 11th-century, by the English thegn Godric who gave it his name. A generation later the keep, which still forms the castle’s core, was added by Richard de Clare, Earl of Pembroke, who owned the castle between 1148 and 1176.

When the castle only consisted of the 900 square-foot keep, residents, servants and guests entered the castle through an exterior staircase which led to the main floor.

Below this floor was the basement used for storage and the second floor was Earl Richard’s chambers, offering him an impressive view of the Wye River Valley.

The keep is one of three characteristics of castles from this time, so when the castle was expanded, a courtyard and gatehouse — the other two characteristics — were added.

As the castle expanded, the keep was most likely used for additional storage and servants’ quarters.

Today, visitors enter the castle the same way later residents did — through the gatehouse. Built around 1300, the gatehouse is situated in the northeast tower of the castle and features a 50 foot-long vaulted corridor.

Barred at each end by a portcullis, the vaulted chamber opens out and provides access to the lower areas of the tower. Facing the courtyard and to your right as you are entering the castle is another narrow corridor running along the wall leading to a guard house.

The upper floor of the tower housed a chapel for the garrison. Built into the castle are other passageways giving castle defenders access to pouring fire onto any assaulting force as they tried to breach the stronghold.

Next I walked into the courtyard. Goodrich is a good example of a castle where the courtyard was designed to take on a more important role than other castles — the great hall, the chapel, two additional towers with upper level living quarters and fireplaces. The courtyard area also was built around 1300.

In this area visitors are introduced to Roaring Meg.

In 1646, with the Civil War between Royalists — supporting King Charles I — and Parliamentarians, Colonel John Birch was ordered to clear the area of all Royalists.

The castle was held by Royalist Sir Henry Lingen. When he refused to turn his property over to Birch, Birch ordered the casting of a powerful mortar. Roaring Meg was built to fire a gunpowder-filled shell weighing more than 200 pounds.

The mortar hit the northwest tower. With some of the building in ruins, the castle was stormed and the royal garrison surrendered.

Behind a plain wire fence stands Roaring Meg, the last surviving mortar from the Civil War.

Next I visited the keep. Clinging to a rope to ascend a winding staircase, I climbed to the roof and the spectacular view of the Wye Valley.

By listening to recorded information and reading informative plaques, it’s easy to visualize the kitchen, situated next to the keep with its doorway opening onto the courtyard.

The great hall and private chambers are identified, the entrance to the Solar — or sitting room — and additional rooms below are all pointed out. A large chapel is another area complete with passageways and ornate additions carved into its facade.

Goodrich stands majestically on a wooded hill overlooking the river.

For centuries the red sandstone fortress guarded one of the most important crossings of the Wye between England and Wales. Today is keeps watch over a chapter in English history.

If you go:

There is a visitors’ center, including a café and shop, on site.

For more information: http://www.english-heritage.org.uk/server/show/nav.16571

With the Great British Heritage Pass you will be granted free entry to more than 580 heritage properties including Goodrich Castle.
For more information: www.britishheritagepass.com.

Traveling by train:
The BritRail website highlights maps and special price-saving passes for all your rail travel in the United Kingdom. Passes are the most convenient — one ticket is good on more than 18,000 daily train departures in England, Scotland and Wales — and economical because they can be purchased for different increments of time.
For more information: www.britrail.net.