Christmas Dinner in a Chef's Home
by Madelyn Miller, the TravelLady
 Eating at a chef's table
in a restaurant is an exciting experience. Being in the kitchen, usually
having a special menu prepared for the event is all such a heady experience.
Makes you feel like a real insider.
As a travel and food writer, my life has been filled with peak
experiences. I have been fed by some of the best chefs in the world.
But one meal that will always be a treasured memory is Christmas dinner
at the home of Kitchenette co-owner, Lisa Hall. Serving wonderfully
creative comfort food in colorful and homey surroundings, Kitchenette has
won New York Magazine's Best Apple Pie award, is included in The 50 Best
Brunches in New York restaurant guide. In the aftermath of 9/11,
it was one of only a few restaurants selected to feed the workers at Ground
Zero.
How did I get so lucky? Lisa Hall's mother, Edith Hall Friedheim is a
good friend of mine. And her family treats me like part of the family when I
visit over the holidays.
 Christmas dinner at
Lisa's starts the celebration. Her home is an eclectic blend of interesting
items she has picked up all over. I loved her collection of egg beaters and
was charmed by her kitchen.
The menu includes a standing rib roast (How does Lisa get it just right
so the exact number of people who want rare can get rare, and the exact
number of people who want well-done can get well done?) I loved the Caesar
salad made with real anchovies and the fresh steamed asparagus. The
Yorkshire pudding was a dense version with less eggs. Son Jesse, who appears
to be nurturing the culinary gene, compared the taste and texture to a
macaroni and cheese muffin. Who knows if that will be next year's trendy
item on menus all over.
 The red velvet cake that
is a favorite at both Kitchenette locations was frosted with a bright
Christmas green frosting and trimmed with a white Christmas tree. It tasted
even better than it looked. And Lisa displayed the desserts on an antique
plant stand. She must have the Martha Stewart gene.
You might not wangle an invitation to Lisa's but do try her restaurants
next time you're in New York City. Both locations are so popular, especially
during weekend brunch, that sometimes there is a wait for a table. If you
love desserts, you will find waiting in line beside the dessert cases
terribly tempting. Besides Red Velvet Cake there's the restaurant's
signature desserts, its own version of the Hostess Cupcake, seasonal Fruit
Pies and Crisps, Chocolate Layer Cake, English Trifle, Chocolate Pudding
like none you have ever tasted, and Sour Cream Coffee Cake, among many other
delicious bakery items. I wanted to order several desserts, but
fortunately, my healthy voice said meatloaf when the waiter asked what I
wanted to order.
Kitchenette, 156 Chambers Street (between Greenwich and W. Broadway),
Tribeca. Tel. (212) 267-6740.
Kitchenette Uptown, 1272 Amsterdam Ave. (between 122nd & 123rd Streets,
Columbia University Area. Tel. (212) 531-7600.
www.kitchenetterestaurant.com
Madelyn Miller is a travel and food writer who hopes to stay on Lisa
Hall’s holiday list. Read her stories on
www.travellady.com,
www.carladynews.com, www.yogayaya.com,
www.chocolateatlas.com,
www.cocktailatlas.com,
www.coffeeatlas.com and
www.teaAtlas.com
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