Thanksgiving Jazz Before the End of the Universe

by Jason Cogan

I’m not sure when or if the Universe is ever going to end. But the Mayans seemed pretty certain about it. According to that ancient civilization, December 21, 2012 is the date for the final explosive light show. And according to many, Chichen Itza in the Yucatan Peninsula is ground zero. So being an Ancient Alien devotee, I jumped at the chance to listen to some cool jazz, skip the traditional Thanksgiving Turkey, and contemplate the end of the universe on the Mayan Riviera. 

Jazz lends itself to a free flowing style, which is perfectly suited to the laid back charm of a Mexican beach town. The Riviera Maya Jazz Festival attracts some great acts, and even the performers admit to being swayed by the charms of the Riviera beaches and the hospitality of the resorts. After eight years, it’s stature as a world-class jazz extravaganza is well entrenched. In addition to showcasing heavyweights of the jazz world, like George Duke and Manhattan Transfer, the festival prides itself on discovering future stars of the jazz universe. With 15 acts over 4 days, there is definitely a variety of styles to suit every taste. 

I particularly loved Mike Stern and Dave Wecki, who have 10 Grammies between them, and for my money, were the highlight of the first evening. Mike Stern is every bit the guitarist as rock legends Robert Plant and Mark Knopfler, proving once again that Miles Davis was correct when he said “There’s just good music and bad music.”  

I asked Mike Stern about his love for jazz at the daily press conferences, and why he chose jazz over the more lucrative world of rock and roll. Mike admitted to being open to all types of influences, and he certainly loves a good blues or rock jam session. But jazz allows an interplay with other musicians not afforded by other musical styles. “I guess it’s true,” admitted Mike. “You don’t choose Jazz; Jazz chooses you.”

The Riviera Maya folks choose to place their jazz on display in a stunning open air beach amphitheater, directly under the moon and stars. The stage flows into the beach, and the gorgeous setting can easily accommodate 10,000 people or more. The concerts had plenty of security, but still maintained a laid back vibe. Wandering through the various picnic blankets assembled on the beach, I got a great sense of the global patrons that make this beach town so special. I have to admit that the concerts were especially enjoyable for me, since I could take in the music from our roped off press bar at the back of the concert venue. 

In addition to the four nightly concerts under the booming moon, the Riviera Maya offers a number of other great attractions. During the days, the beaches are divine, and the scuba and snorkeling are some of the best in the world.  I didn’t make it over to Cozumel on this trip, which is just a short boat ride from Playa. But snorkeling on the Playa reef itself is very convenient.

We took a trip to a shallow beach reef, where most things are easy enough to see and the water isn’t overly rough or dangerous. The Abyss Dive Center runs a 12:30 tour every day, for $25 per person including equipment. I am a PADI certified diver, so maybe I found the swimming less taxing than most in my group. But I also didn't feel bored in the least, and would definitely re-visit that site for an afternoon snorkel. Even better, the boat returned us directly to our Mahekal beach resort, so I could snooze in the hammock as soon as the dive was over.

Mahekal is a relaxed Mexican resort on one of the nicest beaches in Mexico. I would definitely recommend it for those travelers who do not want much in the way of activities, TV, phones, etc. Some people like to take vacations to get away from everything and just lie on a beach, and in that sense, Mahekal fits the bill perfectly. The pools are seductively warm, and the ocean is a stone’s throw away, even if you’re not Roy Halladay. I would have liked internet access in the room, but there’s internet access in the game room, lounge, and the restaurant. The casitas were clean and spacious, complete with a hammocked deck for afternoon napping. And a double room is less than $200 per night during the festival.

The Mahekal breakfasts, which are included in your booking, are delicious and plentiful. But save room for the food along the European promenades masquerading as Playa’s main drag. Fifth Avenue is the central boulevard of Playa, and it abounds with restaurants and cafes serving every imaginable cuisine. Menus are usually in English and most of the waiters speak fluent English. The farther away from Fifth Avenue you go, the cheaper meal costs become. Bottled water is available in every restaurant, and the restaurants use bottled water for cooking. There are a few special restaurants that might get filled up at peak times, but reservations are not required. Dress throughout Playa is casual, and you can drop in during the day to look at several choices.

One activity I particularly enjoyed was my visit to the Kantun-Chi Mayan caves, located 20 minutes from Playa and 200 meters south of the Barcelo hotel. I have been to many natural wonders throughout the world, but the Kantun-Chi caves are uniquely spiritual. The caves are filled with stalagmites and stalactites, and contain a series of connected pools and wandering caverns. It’s as if you’re floating in a netherworld between the past and the present, hearkening back to the simpler times of the Maya. Tours are offered seven days a week, and for $59 the guides also prepare an authentic Mayan lunch at the end of your journey. It’s always nice to combine the harmony of nature with a deliciously full belly.

As for the Mayan ruins themselves, Chichen Itza is a three-hour drive from Playa through the Yucatan back country. So you’ll need to schedule an entire day if you want to take in those spectacular sights on your Riviera Maya trip. But don’t fret. There are plenty of other archeological sites much closer, such as the ruins at Tulum. And if you want to venture a little farther, check out the jungle ruins at Coba, which are just 40 km more down the road. We rented a car, which is easy to do in Playa del Carmen and the best way to plan the day. Stop off for lunch in Tulum, at any number of roadside Taco stands. We ate at Mar Vista, a local joint with some tasty fried fish tacos. Lunch for two ran just 12 dollars with two beers and a tip.

So if you’re sick of the traditional Thanksgiving turkey, or just sick or your in-laws, why not expand your horizons and try something else next holiday season? Four days is perfect for a long getaway. It will leave you refreshed and ready to take on the holidays back home. 

Don’t worry about bringing your IPod. There’s plenty of music on display and fantastic weather to boot. And even if the Mayans were right about the world ending, they planned ahead. They still gave you two more years to experience Thanksgiving Jazz in Playa Del Carmen before turning the lights out.