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The Isles of Scilly – A Tranquil HavenBy Caroline M. Jackson
Although the Isles of Scilly comprise nearly 200 granite islands and islets, only five are inhabited and they have a total population of just over 2,000. Most people live on the biggest island, St. Mary's (biggest but still only five kilometres across at its widest), while 200 residents are scattered among the "off islands" of St. Agnes, Bryher, Tresco and St. Martins. Except for Tresco, all are owned by the Duchy of Cornwall – in other words, the Prince of Wales. The prince, one of whose titles is Duke of Cornwall, has a private residence on St. Mary’s, as does former Prime Minister Harold Wilson.
The Isles of Scilly are truly a haven for those who seek tranquillity and natural beauty. Boasting more than 2,000 pristine beaches, there's privacy for everyone, even at the height of the summer tourist season. So fine is the sand that before the invention of blotting paper, the white silica was once exported to dry ink. Footpaths snake all over the islands and the only unusual animal you are likely to spot is the Scilly shrew. Along the paths paralleling the seashore, the ground is carpeted in mossy murals of sage green and mustard. Between boulders, fresh green ferns lie curled in fetal position while purple thrift vibrates atop exposed rocks as if played by an unseen violinist.
For centuries, the sea has played a very important part in the islands’ history and today the area is an ‘in’ spot with divers because the waters are crystal clear and free from the discolouring effects of muddy rivers. Recently gold coins, pieces of eight, Dutch ducatoons and priceless vases have been retrieved from a few of the thousand or so wrecks which litter the ocean floor hereabouts. According to my companion, an ex-navy diver, ‘Sometimes it was like the Klondike gold rush around here but, retrieving treasure is very hard work – and expensive.’ One of the biggest tragedies occurred when the German steamer Schuller sank with the loss of 300 lives. It was carrying gold bullion and, amazingly, 95 percent of it was subsequently retrieved. The tragedy bonded the Germans and the Scillonians through two world wars and, in 1975, the German ambassador visited the Isles of Scilly to commemorate the centenary of the sinking. Many of the fascinating treasures can be seen in St. Mary’s Museum. The most popular sport on the islands is gig racing and, throughout the summer, visitors can watch the six-oared gigs compete in races. It was forbidden to have more than six oars because, in smuggling days, the gigs were too speedy for the Excise cutters to intercept. These lightweight boats were first used to rescue foundering vessels or to carry pilots out to ships trying to navigate their way through the treacherous waters. Gigs were also frequently used to salvage shipwrecks, so the more proficient the rowers, the greater the booty for the first gig on the scene. The spoils were ‘live’ when, in 1887, a ship carrying a herd of steers ran aground but, with great skill, many of the cattle were roped by the horns and rescued. Aside from natural beauty, the Isles of Scilly are doubly blessed with a warm climate. Because their shores are washed by the Gulf Stream, the islands lay claim to having Britain’s most equable climate and hence their original Celtic name of Sully (the sun islands). This unique climatic zone has given rise to the islands' second biggest industry - cut flowers (the number one industry is tourism). By the first week in November when the mainland is still wrapped in its winter woollies, Scillonians are packing their first daffodil and narcissus harvest off to London.
It is unlikely that the Isles of Scilly will become too commercialized. The building of private or public houses is limited. Part of the reason behind this stringent enforcement is the limited water supply, which comes from an underground well. Property values are extremely high and there’s also the ticklish matter of the deeds to each house, which state in a codicil that the Duchy of Cornwall has claim to all mineral, shooting and fishing rights. Such an arrangement might be unnerving for those who dread the prospect of Prince Charles, gun at the ready, racing through the kitchen in hot pursuit of a pheasant or a rabbit. Island accommodation includes self-catering chalets, farmhouses, camping (no caravans), bed-and-breakfast and guest houses with intriguing names such as Smugglers’ Ride and Freesia Guest House. Luxury can be found in a converted 400-year-old castle in St. Mary's. It was originally an Elizabethan fort built shortly after the defeat of the Spanish Armada as protection not only against further attacks from Spain but also from pirates and privateers; threatening Spanish vessels were frequently seen off the coast. The castle was designed in the form of an eight-pointed star with six-metre thick ramparts surrounded by a dry moat.
Sunsets are memorable in this, the most south westerly part of the British Isles, and it is also the perfect place to slow down and smell the daffodils. Travel tips:The Isles of Scilly can be reached by air from London Gatwick and Stanstead, connecting at Newquay, and from Land's End; or by helicopter from Penzance. Daily ferries from Penzance take two and a half hours to cover the 45 kilometre stretch of ocean. UK Information: http://www.visitbritain.com Images by Caroline M. Jackson |
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The
helicopter blades whipped the air into a frenzy as the great whirlybird
soared out over the glistening Atlantic, the noise of its engine fading
slowly to become no more than the drone of a distant bumblebee. Garrulous
gulls wheeled effortlessly above the tiny airstrip where the sun warmed my
pale winter skin. It was early May yet already holidaymakers were flocking
to the Isles of Scilly, an archipelago which lies just 45 kilometres off the
tapering sea-girt peninsula of Cornwall, the English mainland’s westernmost
point. 
The
port of entry for most visitors is Hugh Town on St. Mary's.
Scillonians boast that they are a quarter of a century behind the mainland
and newcomers experience a transition almost as dramatic as the change of
pace between New York and Newfoundland. In this part of the world, time
miraculously loses its significance and the salty scent of sea air laced
with the perfume of flowers is a heady experience. Roads on St. Mary’s total
fourteen kilometres and, with only 300 registered cars, rush hour is hardly
a problem. Bicycling and walking are preferred means of locomotion, so 'grockles',
as visitors are known, are encouraged to leave their vehicles behind in
Penzance. Even Sunday papers do not arrive till Monday.
Although
the islands have a colorful history of smuggling – more contraband was
reputed to come from the Isles of Scilly than from the whole legal port of
London – today crime is almost unheard of, as the existence of a tiny gaol
attests. 
Popular
pastimes for visitors are boat trips to isolated islets for picnics on
crescent-shaped beaches or for a closer look at the wildlife. On the
migratory path of many birds and a permanent sanctuary for others, the Isles
of Scilly make an ideal resting place for thousands of seabirds. A favourite
is the parrot-like puffin which nests on rocky outcroppings and bobs about
in the swirling ocean like a bathtub toy. Other animals with a propensity
for rocky shelves are the grey seals that quickly nose-dive into the foaming
surf when observers get a little too close for comfort.
The
first recorded inhabitants date from the Bronze Age, around 2000 BC, when
the present isles were all joined together, as is evidenced by the
fascinating megalithic burial chambers. Later, the Romans also occupied this
part of the world.
One
of the most popular islands is Treso which was the site of a twelfth century
Benedictine priory. Today it is renowned for its sub-tropical Abbey gardens
where palms, banana trees, prickly pears and Chinese paper plants grow in
profusion. Also housed on the grounds is a unique collection of figureheads
assembled from the numerous shipwrecks around the rocky coast – a reminder
that Scillonians have always depended on the bounty of the sea.