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Palacios, TexasA seaside town fit for a kingBy Angela Fox
Founded in 1902 on a secluded stretch of the Texas Gulf Cost, Palacios is bordered on the east and south by Tres Palacios Bay, which opens into Matagorda Bay and the Gulf of Mexico. Tres Palacios is Spanish for “three palaces ”and legend has it that both the town and the bay were named after a mirage of royal proportions seen by Spanish sailors over 300 years ago. It's a much more colorful story than the real one: that the bay was named after Jose Felix Trespalacios, Mexican governor of the area when Stephen F. Austin established his colony back in the 1800s. Eventually the town became known as Palacios and the pronunciation was Americanized to” Puh-LASH-uhs” rather than the proper Spanish Pa-las-ee-ohs. Legendary Texas cattle baron Shanghai Pierce once owned the land where Palacios is today. In 1901 the land was bought from Pierce by The Texas Rice Development Company. They then sold the town site to their own subsidiary - The Palacios City Townsite Company – in 1902. From the beginning, Palacios’ developers saw it as a coastal resort -- thus, the two biggest construction projects in those early years were the Luther Hotel (still in operation today) and an events pavilion (a version of which is also standing today) overlooking the bay.
The area’s roots actually date back to 1685 when French explorer Robert Cavelier, Sieur de La Salle sailed into Matagorda Bay on his famous expedition and founded nearby Fort St. Louis. Each summer Palacios re-enacts the historic event, with costumed citizens taking the parts of LaSalle and his crew landing on the shores of East Bay. Other key events in the town’s history are depicted on colorful murals adorning several buildings around town.
Retail therapy is also popular in Palacios. Etched in Time offers glass vases, bowls, picture frames and more, all embellished with hand-etched designs. An art gallery featuring work by area artists is planned for the space next door. Browse for second-hand treasures at Palacios Antiques and Resale or pick up a Palacios souvenir or fishing supplies at the Pier Drive-Inn. D’s Gifts on Main Street has nautical gifts, scented candles and home accessories, while Family Dollar and Dollar General offer everything from clothing and home items to food and beach supplies.
Readers and Internet fans will enjoy the Palacios Public Library, affectionately known as “the best little library in Texas.” Founded in 1907 by five women and located on Main Street, the library has several computers available for public use, a wide range of local and Texas history books, the latest novels and non-fiction works and a good children’s section.
Photographs by Virgil Fox FOR MORE INFORMATION Palacios Chamber of Commerce |
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Palacios means “palace” in
Spanish but you won’t find any sprawling mansions ruling this kingdom by the
sea. You won’t find any beach resorts or chain hotels here, either, and no
water parks, T-shirt shops or goofy golf. What you will discover is a quaint
seaside town of just over 5,000 fulltime residents that’s brimming with
history and natural charm.
Palacios boomed during World
War II with Camp Hulen, an Army base where thousands of troops trained
before shipping out to foreign battlefields. Hollywood’s finest came to
entertain those troops and stayed at the Luther (a signed photo of Rita
Hayworth still graces the lobby of the hotel). The town’s population reached
its high point of 15,000 during the war, then declined after the base
closed. Today all that remains of Camp Hulen is a historical marker on the
western edge of town.
Palacios is also known as the
“Shrimp Capital of Texas” and is home to the largest fleet of commercial
fishing boats in the state. The town boasts seven miles of shoreline so
recreational fishing is big here, too, as are sailing, kayaking and
canoeing. There’s a stretch of sandy beach on the bay for swimming and
sunbathing, plus a large community pool open to the public. Palacios is
situated directly on the central flyway, a migration route where four major
bird groups converge during the spring and fall. Not surprisingly, birding
is a popular pastime and you can spot painted buntings, scarlet tanagers,
roseate spoonbills, hummingbirds, warblers, red-tailed hawks, white and
brown pelicans and great blue herons.
Additional attractions
include the Palacios Seawall, a 1.5 mile concrete seawall that is a favorite
spot for walkers. There are also free boat ramps and numerous lighted
jetties and piers for fishing. Golfers can play the nine-hole Palacios Golf
Course, a public course located adjacent to the Municipal Airport, or the
nearby Rio Colorado Golf Course. Brush up on local history at the Palacios
Museum, where you’ll find exhibits about the history of the town, plus
displays about the Belle, one of ships belonging to French explorer LaSalle
that sank in the bay in 1686 and was recovered in 1995. The museum is in a
temporary space on Commerce Street but will eventually move to the historic
1910 Hill Building across the street.
From barbecue to seafood,
Mexican to Oriental, Palacios offers a diverse array of dining options. Los Cucos and Palacios Mexican offer reasonably priced Mexican fare. Janie’s
Snack Bar is great for home-cooked brisket, tacos and fried seafood
platters. The Outrigger offers seafood, burgers and steaks, plus hearty
breakfasts, live music on the weekends and a shrimp boil the first Saturday
of each month. Baytown Seafood also serves seafood in a casual setting.
Tran’s has Oriental fare. Fast-food options include Simple Simon’s Pizza,
Subway, Sonic and Dairy Queen. Other local favorites are Matamora’s Taco
Stand and Martin’s Donut Shop and Bakery. Accommodations range from
bed-and-breakfast inns to vacation cottage rentals. Most are on the bay or
just a few blocks from it.
Palacios is an easy drive from Houston
(110 miles), Corpus Christi (110 miles), Austin (150 miles), Dallas (325
miles) and San Antonio (200 miles).