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St. Thomas: Asked and AnsweredBy Niambi Brown DavisWe had a long list and little time to choose. In the end, only St. Thomas and Jamaica were left standing; St. Thomas won out simply because my daughter and I had never been there. Most people I talked to raved about the duty-free shopping, which for me was the last reason to visit the Caribbean. I didn’t know what to expect, but the beaches, blue water and sunshine were reasons enough. With those attractions in place, how bad could it be? At the end of the week, the questions I asked had been answered to my complete satisfaction. Thanks to a check-in delay, I had time to wander around the pale gold lobby of the Wyndham Sugar Bay with a complimentary rum punch in hand. The tall potted palms, slow motion whir of ceiling fans and plantation shutters gave the hotel an old world British colonial feel. But instead of expatriates dressed in cool white cotton, the lobby was full of couples, parents with children and a bride-to-be whose fiancé held her wedding dress bag like a B-movie lifeguard rescuing a beautiful woman from the waves. I was drawn to the display of sun-softened tropical print clothing on display outside of the Castaway, the hotel’s souvenir and sundry shop. In a conversation with the owner, I discovered that she had recently located to St. Thomas from the Baltimore area, across the Chesapeake Bay and not far from our own home on the Eastern Shore of Maryland.
Sun, sand and shopping are the triple treats that lure visitors to St. Thomas.Tourists descend on the streets, foraging for bargains like starving hordes let loose in an all-you-can-eat buffet. And there are bargains to be had – both in town and at Havensight Mall – a shopping mall near the cruise ship docks. Most of Havensight is open only when the ships come in, but they offer the same liquor, watches, gold, diamonds, perfume and cameras as the famed duty free shops in town.
Over a leisurely lunch under the green awnings of Café Amici, we dined on huge plates of fettuccine and salad, and watched the steady stream of tourists making their way from Main Street to the waterfront. I made it my mission to taste some authentic West Indian cooking from a Caribbean hand. On our second trip into town, we found family sized portions of oxtail, plantain and peas and rice served up at Gladys’ Café’. I couldn’t leave without purchasing a bottle of the same hot pepper sauce I sprinkled over my meal and carried it back home in my purse, wrapped in three protective layers of paper. I’d heard of reports of rude treatment by locals, but everyone we met was only too happy to help and chat. People usually respond well to respect and the good behavior of guests in their home. After all, it’s hard to be gracious while being patronized or treated like a servant. And that tour guide or taxi driver could be a retired educator supplementing their income or an astute businessperson capitalizing on the tourist trade.
Photo Credits: Niambi Brown Davis |
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Wyndham is on the East End of St. Thomas, a short ride from the funky town
of Red Hook, where ferries depart for St. John and the British Virgin
Islands of Tortola and Jost Van Dyke. Our 5th floor room gave us an
expansive view of turquoise water dotted with jet skiers and parasailers,
and in the distance, the sister island of St. John. Twice we caught the
flurry of activity and excitement as couples exchanged their vows on the
hotel’s flower-bedecked wedding cupola just below our balcony.
The
hotel is carved out of the side of a mountain and although we felt like we
were on top of the world, there was another property even higher above us,
accessible by a winding thread of road. At night, shrouded in clouds and
moonlight, it looked like the set of a stylish 40s film noir.
Before
there was a resort, the mountain had been the natural habitat of tropical
birds, animals, trees and flowers. To its credit the Wyndham preserves that
heritage. Part of the 34 landscaped acres includes mangrove, coconut and
flamboyant trees and the homes of herons, iguanas and seabirds. For me, the
tree of life has always been the coconut palm. There had been no runner-up
until I encountered the majestic traveler’s trees that stood in like wide
open ladies’ fans along the sloping hill that led to the spa, pools and
café. 
The
resort’s wildlife inhabitants are quite comfortable among the temporary
human guests. At mealtime, seagulls lined up on the rail of the café deck,
waiting for a crumb to drop or for a distracted diner to look away. Iguanas
ambled around like miniature dinosaurs, bold in their attempts to snag a
piece of fruit dangling from a tropical drink or from the tray of chilled
watermelon, pineapple and orange slices passed around by the recreation
staff. One snatch and grab is reminder enough - keep food and drink
well-attended or firmly in hand. 
We’d
gotten a glimpse of Charlotte Amalie and heard of the Royal Dane Mall and
Main Street (or Dronnigen’s Gade), names that reflect the island’s Danish
past. In my mind, a mall is defined as the sprawling structures such as
Maryland’s Annapolis and Montgomery Malls – where could a building this size
fit on the narrow streets of the city? I soon discovered that the unique
downtown malls were like nothing I expected. Instead of glass and steel,
they were constructed from the bricks and ballast left behind by cargo ships
during the island’s seafaring days. Formerly warehouses for rum, molasses
and lumber, shaded mazes of walkways and shops can now be found behind the
arched doorways and long corridors. Baskets of tropical plants and flowers
decorate the labyrinth of local fine art, handmade glass and bright, resort
wear. We turned a corner and found antique books, maps and postcards. At the
opening to another alley, bold, bright paintings depicted Caribbean life and
culture. 
Except
for the brave, foolhardy or experienced driver, safari taxis are the main
method of tourist transportation around St. Thomas. They’re everywhere –
some are simply three metal benches bolted to the back of a truck. Others
are worthy contenders to the tricked out makeovers of popular TV shows – I
couldn’t resist taking a picture of the immaculate white on white muscle
pick-up custom fitted with steps and a scalloped canvas covers. In a
congested Red Hook parking lot, we saw bright gleaming vehicles painted with
elaborate scenery and slogans. One afternoon, at the height of rush hour we
sped from town to our hotel in a taxi owned by a Trinidadian driver,
accessorized with items bearing the blue and yellow logo of Carib, the
national brew of Trinidad and Tobago. He careened around the Red Hook
curves as if he was back home on the country’s east to west speedway
otherwise known as the Churchill Roosevelt Highway.
For
some a visit to St. Thomas means the opportunity to purchase luxury items at
duty-free prices. For others shopping is merely the undercard to the main
event - the chance to sail and swim in the sapphire waters, or lounge on
the sandy beaches. In spite of a man and his donkey named Monica Lewinsky,
the highlights of our St. Thomas guided tour were the views from the
Mountaintop and the St. Peter Great House. In another life it had been a
luxurious private residence, but now the house, vibrant tropical gardens and
observation deck are open to the public. From 1500 feet, we could see
Charlotte Amalie’s red tiled roofs sloping down to the blue-green harbor.
Magens Bay, St. John and the British Virgin Islands were in plain view. It
was truly breathtaking - on that clear day, we could see forever.