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Best White Wine in the World - Wine of the Year J. J. Prüm

By Darryl Beeson

“We know our vineyards. We make the best effort. We can only grow our size slowly,” explains Dr. Manfred Prüm. “I prefer these wines with some age because they express more in the glass.” Each year at this time, this wine writer has the honor of selecting a “Wine of the Year” for the worldwide, UK-based www.wineontheweb.com.

The J.J. Prüm wines have a reputation for being very long-lived and Dr. Prüm suggests that even his Kabinett wines be cellared for five years. Unlike his late father, he prefers to drink the light and racy Kabinetts which are so typical of the region.

For centuries the Prüm family has called the village of Wehlen home. Their ancestors were living in or near Wehlen as early as the year 1156. Many authorities in wine agree that they could now be the greatest white wine producer in the world. To learn more, visit www.cellarsinternational.com.

Joh. Jos. Prüm Riesling Kabinett Wehlener, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer 2003
Price $28
Rating 92
The nose is rich with classic petrol oiliness. There is resounding mineral. The fruit flavors are lean, but this powerful white deserves aging to show its complex potential. There can be found dried fig and more mineral.

Joh. Jos. Prüm Riesling Spätlese Zeltinger Sonnenuhr, 2003
Price $35
Rating 93
The nose is rich with classic petrol oiliness. There is resounding mineral. The fruit flavors are lean and maybe piquant. There is dried apricot with a little spice. Floral appears in the end of the long length.

Joh. Jos. Prüm Riesling Spätlese Graacher Himmelreich, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer 2003
Price $25
Rating 94
The lean nose leads with mineral. The sip reveals oily complexity that coats the palate. There is bright apple with cinnamon, pear, vast floral and more mineral in the long length.

Joh. Jos. Prüm Riesling Spätlese Wehlener Sonnenuhr, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer 2003
Price $40
Rating 95
The nose leads with lean mineral aspects. The sip offers oily, mouth-coating richness. There are nutty, roasted peanut-like qualities, candied lime, complex mineral and nice floral.

Joh. Jos. Prüm Riesling Auslese Bernkasteler Badstube, 2003
Price $50 plus
Rating 97
The nose is closed. It is much too soon to be drinking this great white. It requires aging to show its beauty. The mouth is nutty with a yeasty complexity, though they separate the wine from the yeast in the February following the vintage date. Dried mango, dried apricot, nougat (maybe even nut toffee) can be found among the classic floral and mineral of this great white wine. The length is extraordinary.

Joh. Jos. Prüm Riesling Auslese Graacher Himmelreich, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer 2003
Price $50 plus
Rating 97
The aromas are lean. The sip reveals a complex array of dried fruits like apricot, mango and peach. There are flavors of nutty nougat, cashew butter, floral and mineral.

Joh. Jos. Prüm Riesling Auslese Wehlener Sonnenuhr, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer 2003
Price $50 plus
Rating 97
The aromas are lean, now showing only a lilt of dried fruit. The sip is bright and perfectly balanced. There are flavors of dried apricot, dried pear, a signature nuttiness like nougat, lime peel, lavender and mineral in the extraordinary length on the palate.

Darryl Beeson travels the world looking for great wine values. In the past, he has been wine steward or cellar master for The Mansion on Turtle Creek, Voltaire, and The Adolphus Hotel. Not one for stuffiness or secret handshakes relative to wine, this Texan might now be described as a "ki-yi-yippee sommelier, sommelier." Beeson reports on wine, spirits, food and travel for numerous publications.

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