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Fetzer Vineyards
By Amy Reiley
In the mid-1980’s, the Fetzer family started one of the
best-recognized, environmentally-conscious wineries in the world, Fetzer
Vineyards. The Fetzers left their namesake winery, which continues to
preserve the original ideal of organic farming and environmentally friendly
manufacturing. The winery grew to include a second label, Bonterra. The
Fetzer family recently return to winegrowing, with a new, biodynamic winery
named Ceago. This month, we recognize three of the most forward-thinking
wine labels with our picks from the best of these environmentally conscious
bottlings.
2001 Bonterra Cabernet Sauvignon, North Coast
A wine with tangy acid and bright cherry and berry flavors, its firm tannins
shape its big body and grip. $
2003 Bonterra Viognier, Mendocino County
A fun departure from the typical Mendocino Chardonnay, this light, crisp
white offers pretty aromas and apricot and peach flavors. $$
2001 Ceago Cabernet Sauvignon, Mendocino County
A remarkably interesting wine. Although it is a little lean on aromas, its
caramel, black fruit, bramble and spice flavors evolve from tip of the
tongue to a lengthy, peppery finish. Most alluring is the black pepper
tingle that lingers on the tongue. $$$
2003 Ceago Chardonnay, Mendocino County
An extremely juicy wine with aromas and flavors of tropical fruit, its sweet
freshness tingles the tip of the tongue. But a wine of substance, it
finishes long with flavors hinting of toast and vanilla. $$
2000 Ceago Merlot, Mendocino County
A big, bright wine, Ceago’s Merlot nicely matches acidity with cherry fruit
flavors. The toasted oak used in aging gives it an interesting cedar note
and a lovely vanilla finish. $$$
2003 Ceago Sauvignon Blanc, Mendocino County
Lemongrass and honeysuckle aromas lead the way to a sweet, honeyed flavor.
Surprisingly sweet and aromatic for a Sauvignon Blanc, its luscious flavors
finish clean with lemon acidity. $$
Fetzer 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon, California
Made from grapes grown in California’s coastal regions, Fetzer’s Cab boasts
cranberry acidity. With soft tannins and red fruit flavors it is an
extremely easy-drinking Cabernet. $
2003 Fetzer Chardonnay, California
This wine is pure North Coast classic, with aromas and flavors of crisp
apples and pears. Its acidity hints of lemons and grapefruits and its oak
influence gives length to the finish. $
2003 Fetzer Pinot Grigio, California
Lovely green melon and floral aromas and flavors make this a refreshing and
well-priced choice for a picnic or light meal. $
2001 Fetzer Shiraz, California
Fruity, food friendly and full of character, this pleasant Shiraz is a crowd
pleaser. Soft tannins and ample cherry/currant flavors and just a hint of
anise and pepper, its a well-priced, easy-drinking wine.$
$ under 15USD
$$ 15-25USD
$$$ 25-50USD
$$$$ over 50USD
Woman on Wine is the syndicated wine column from Master
of Gastronomy Amy Reiley’s monthly enewsletter, Life of Reiley, available
from www.lifeofreiley.com.
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