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Milz-Laurentiushof – Top German wines from 2003

By Darryl Beeson

Since 1520, the Milz family has been active in viticulture at Trittenheim. In 1890, extensive vineyard holdings belonging to the Knight of Warsberg and to the Count of Hunolstein were purchased.

The original Milz house is located near the church in the center of Trittenheim. A part of the cellar was completed in 1680, and other parts of the manor house date back to 1715. Over the years there have been many additions and changes, but the original architectural style of the house and cellar have been well preserved. The cellar is equipped with the latest in modern technology, and the wines produced by Milz reflect the tradition and care that make them the finest produced in Trittenheim.

What are generally considered the finest Trittenheim sites - the Leiterchen and the Felsenkopf - are wholly owned by Milz. They also have substantial holdings in the Altärchen and Apotheke. All the Trittenheim vineyards are planted 100% to Riesling.  To learn more, visit www.cellarsinternational.com.

Milz-Laurentiushof Riesling Spätlese TRITTENHEIMER LEITERCHEN, 2003
Price $29
Rating 93
The nose invigorates with notes of fresh melon and slate/mineral. The sip is bright and uplifting. There is fresh apricot, lemon, fresh fig, subtle floral and mineral in the long, crisp length.

Milz-Laurentiushof Riesling Spätlese TRITTENHEIMER FELSENKOPF, 2003
Price $29
Rating 93
Slate/mineral dominates the nose. Then there are flavors of vibrant fresh fruit; First there is fig, then apricot, bracing lemon/lemon peel and complex floral-like spice.

Milz-Laurentiushof Riesling Auslese TRITTENHEIMER APOTHEKE, 2003
Price $40+
Rating 95
The nose resembles limestone, though the soil in the vineyard is slate. Subtle fresh fruit notes are in the nose. The sip offers apricot nectar, dried fig, dried cherry, spritzy citrus peel, diverse floral and mineral in the long length.

German wines in general can make excellent food pairings. The following is a detailed explanation from the US importer of the above wine, Rudi Wiest:

“The pursuit to optimize the enjoyment of wine and food will likely never end. Generally changes and fads are much more prevalent in the food area. Barely was regional cookery, such as Cajun in, then came Tex-Mex, Southwestern, California and Pacific Rim cuisine. Most prevalent, however, is the ever increasing mingling of Oriental and European cuisine's especially Oriental/French and Oriental/Italian. Oriental can of course mean the various cuisine's of the China (Cantonese, Mandarin, Hunan, Szechwan), Japan, Thailand, Vietnam, and Korea. Herbs, spices and textures in these Asian preparations are forcing a look at new wines because traditional wines, especially wines with significant oak and alcohol overpower the subtleties in this new taste environment. It demands wines that have bright, pure flavors with some residual sweetness, lots of fruit and acidity. Many of these dishes also bring heat to the palate, which is best handled by trading off alcohol for sugar i.e. wines that have very little alcohol but significant amounts of residual sugar. “

“Ethnic oriental cuisine's from Thai to Vietnamese to Korean have invaded the neighborhoods with traditional Chinese and Japanese cookery holding strong, because they offer interest to the palate and a good value to the consumer… These preparations demand pure, bright dry wines. Classically styled Chablis and dry styled Spätleses and Ausleses offer perfect matches. Oak is not spoken for many of these sophisticated preparations. As health consciousness continues to rise, extreme novelle cuisine factions moderated and recognized that finesse and elegance in a dish can be achieved only by using the finest ingredients. However, techniques for lighter and healthier preparations are now firmly entrenched in all styles of cooking. These trends provide an ever larger window for fine German wine.”

Darryl Beeson travels the world looking for great wine values. In the past, he has been wine steward or cellar master for The Mansion on Turtle Creek, Voltaire, and The Adolphus Hotel. Not one for stuffiness or secret handshakes relative to wine, this Texan might now be described as a "ki-yi-yippee sommelier, sommelier." Beeson reports on wine, spirits, food and travel for numerous publications.

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