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Milz-Laurentiushof – Top German wines from 2003
By Darryl Beeson
Since 1520, the Milz family has been active in
viticulture at Trittenheim. In 1890, extensive vineyard holdings belonging
to the Knight of Warsberg and to the Count of Hunolstein were purchased.
The original Milz house is located near the church in
the center of Trittenheim. A part of the cellar was completed in 1680, and
other parts of the manor house date back to 1715. Over the years there have
been many additions and changes, but the original architectural style of the
house and cellar have been well preserved. The cellar is equipped with the
latest in modern technology, and the wines produced by Milz reflect the
tradition and care that make them the finest produced in Trittenheim.
What are generally considered the finest Trittenheim
sites - the Leiterchen and the Felsenkopf - are wholly owned by Milz. They
also have substantial holdings in the Altärchen and Apotheke. All the
Trittenheim vineyards are planted 100% to Riesling. To learn more, visit
www.cellarsinternational.com.
Milz-Laurentiushof Riesling Spätlese TRITTENHEIMER
LEITERCHEN, 2003
Price $29
Rating 93
The nose invigorates with notes of fresh melon and slate/mineral. The sip is
bright and uplifting. There is fresh apricot, lemon, fresh fig, subtle
floral and mineral in the long, crisp length.
Milz-Laurentiushof Riesling Spätlese TRITTENHEIMER
FELSENKOPF, 2003
Price $29
Rating 93
Slate/mineral dominates the nose. Then there are flavors of vibrant fresh
fruit; First there is fig, then apricot, bracing lemon/lemon peel and
complex floral-like spice.
Milz-Laurentiushof Riesling Auslese TRITTENHEIMER
APOTHEKE, 2003
Price $40+
Rating 95
The nose resembles limestone, though the soil in the vineyard is slate.
Subtle fresh fruit notes are in the nose. The sip offers apricot nectar,
dried fig, dried cherry, spritzy citrus peel, diverse floral and mineral in
the long length.
German wines in general can make excellent food
pairings. The following is a detailed explanation from the US importer of
the above wine, Rudi Wiest:
“The pursuit to optimize the enjoyment of wine and food
will likely never end. Generally changes and fads are much more prevalent in
the food area. Barely was regional cookery, such as Cajun in, then came
Tex-Mex, Southwestern, California and Pacific Rim cuisine. Most prevalent,
however, is the ever increasing mingling of Oriental and European cuisine's
especially Oriental/French and Oriental/Italian. Oriental can of course mean
the various cuisine's of the China (Cantonese, Mandarin, Hunan, Szechwan),
Japan, Thailand, Vietnam, and Korea. Herbs, spices and textures in these
Asian preparations are forcing a look at new wines because traditional
wines, especially wines with significant oak and alcohol overpower the
subtleties in this new taste environment. It demands wines that have bright,
pure flavors with some residual sweetness, lots of fruit and acidity. Many
of these dishes also bring heat to the palate, which is best handled by
trading off alcohol for sugar i.e. wines that have very little alcohol but
significant amounts of residual sugar. “
“Ethnic oriental cuisine's from Thai to Vietnamese to
Korean have invaded the neighborhoods with traditional Chinese and Japanese
cookery holding strong, because they offer interest to the palate and a good
value to the consumer… These preparations demand pure, bright dry wines.
Classically styled Chablis and dry styled Spätleses and Ausleses offer
perfect matches. Oak is not spoken for many of these sophisticated
preparations. As health consciousness continues to rise, extreme novelle
cuisine factions moderated and recognized that finesse and elegance in a
dish can be achieved only by using the finest ingredients. However,
techniques for lighter and healthier preparations are now firmly entrenched
in all styles of cooking. These trends provide an ever larger window for
fine German wine.”
Darryl Beeson travels the world looking for great wine
values. In the past, he has been wine steward or cellar master for The Mansion
on Turtle Creek, Voltaire, and The Adolphus Hotel. Not one for stuffiness or
secret handshakes relative to wine, this Texan might now be described as a "ki-yi-yippee
sommelier, sommelier." Beeson reports on wine, spirits, food and travel for
numerous publications.
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