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Sideways in SonomaBy Valerie Summers
Sonoma County, one of California’s great wine regions lies just 56 miles north of San Francisco. Driving through the countryside interwoven with rural roads my colleague and I delighted in viewing the rolling hills, vineyards and charming villages but most of all we appreciated the friendliness of Sonoma’s inhabitants. We were amazed to find ongoing courtesies as we attempted to get into the correct lane at the last minute, trying to find our way to a particular destination. Upon checking into our hotel, later than expected, I was advised to chill out and relax. There was no rush. It took around 24 hours, but I did manage to slow down and realize that no catastrophe would befall us if we were a little late. Visiting off-season offers its rewards. Even though the weather did not invite us to hike through the countryside, we had no crowds to deal with whether visiting a winery or stopping at a restaurant sans reservations. We also enjoyed the brilliant colors of autumn even in late December. Sonoma’s offerings are many and varied including its world renowned wineries. We chose to visit several boutique wineries, not as universally recognized as some of the larger facilities but ones which people in the know have patronized for years. They are ahead of the game, ordering cases of their favorite vintage often before it is available for consumption. Several of the vineyards where we stopped for samplings had a most impressive list of devotees including several United States presidents. The tasting rooms ran the gamut from the palatial to the funky, but each offered several choices which pleased our palates.
One evening we ambled over to Santa Rosa’s Old Courthouse Square, where the old courthouse used to stand. In its place we found an office building, several restaurants and a newly opened and already trendy wine bar, Upper Fourth. We dined on the square at Flavor Bistro, the ever-popular, always crowded local’s hangout, bright and lively and featuring a varied, well-priced menu.
Healdsburg, a jewel of a town, offered first class shopping in one of kind boutiques surrounding the town square. Upon recommendation, Bistro Ralph was our choice for lunch and we delighted in the offerings. The cabbage and garbanzo soup which sounded like an odd combination, turned out to be delicious. The luscious lamb-burger and tasty salads were also excellent choices. We found that many of Sonoma’s restaurants favor organic products and businesses support growers and vendors who utilize sustainable farming and fishing practices. Just two blocks from the main square, we toured one of Relais & Chateaux’s newest members, Les Mars, a handsome 16 bedroom boutique hotel meticulously furnished with European antiques and offering 21st century technology. As a bonus, this luxurious, romantic establishment is conveniently situated just next door to Cyrus, the recent recipient of the coveted Michelin’s two star award. This restaurant is bound to achieve the same status as the revered French Laundry in the near future.
The last stop of our tour of Sonoma took us back to Santa Rosa and to another fledgling wine bar, the Wine Spectrum Bar & Shop. This company has been in business for more than 15 years, specializing in obtaining rare and hard to get wines but this is their first retail operation, and a very attractive one at that. Wines by the glass range from very reasonably priced to very expensive. The shop sells good bottles of wine for as little as $23 but in the vault, the prices can soar to over $1000. In this comfortable, sophisticated setting, we enjoyed our final toast to Sonoma, to its wines, its beauty and its hospitality. For information: Armstrong Woods State Park Charizma Wine Lounge Cyrus Restaurant Ferrari Carano Flavor Bistro Hartford Family Winery Hotel La Rose Imagery Winery Iron Horse Vineyards J Vineyards and Winery Les Mars Hotel Wine Spectrum Shop and Bar |
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The lure of California’s wine
country is attracting a new breed of oenophile to the tasting rooms. They are a
sophisticated group who prefer samplings at a couple of wineries each day, then
a spa treatment, a bit of shopping, gallery gazing, balloon rides, a good meal
and some relaxing time.
Our base during our Sonoma tour was the
conveniently situated La Rose Hotel in Santa Rosa. Celebrating its 100th
birthday, the hotel has anchored the city’s historic Railroad Square since 1907.
The legend of a haunting still prevails after nearly a century. On some nights
people have reported hearing weeping sounds on the fourth floor. It is said
that a young boy was accidentally shot there and his spirit still roams the
halls. In 1985, La Rose underwent a major renovation, but maintained the
original character of the grand building with its old world charm while adding
the amenities and conveniences of a modern hotel. The guest rooms were
spacious, comfortable and featured up to date bathrooms and private patios.
Adjoining the hotel, one evening we feasted on sumptuous French country cuisine
at the very attractive, candlelit Josef’s Restaurant & Bar where the charming
Swiss proprietor greeted us warmly. We also found it a delightful place for a
nightcap.
Around the town statues of Charles
Shultz’s Peanuts family brings smiles to passers by, a reminder that Santa Rosa
was home to Shultz. The Charles M. Shultz Museum and Research Center offered us
a glimpse at original artwork and memorabilia which has brought a lot of
happiness to a lot of people over the years.
Our exploration of the
wine country began outside the town of Healdsburg at the sumptuous Ferrari-Carano
Vineyards and Winery. Although having nothing to do with car manufacturers,
this establishment appeared more like an estate with a palatial home and
exquisite gardens than a business where wine was produced. We enjoyed our tour
through the gardens and the heart of the operation, then to the tasting area
where we sampled several of its fine offerings.
Our next stop, J Vineyards &
Winery, also boasted a Healdsburg address. Its youthful owner’s personality was
reflected in the clean, modern look of the tasting room and simple handsomely
stylized “J” which adorns her wine bottles. Judy Jordan grew up in a famous wine
family, learned the business from bottom to top and successfully launched her
own brand of fine wines in 1986. She counts many celebrities among her loyal
following.
We continued on to Glen Ellen’s Imagery Estate
Winery & Art Gallery which produces small quantities with big tastes. The
tasting room, which is combined with a gallery, claims to display the world’s
largest single-themed art collection, each piece featured on a past wine label.
The original art pleased our eyes and the limited edition wine tasting pleased
our palates. Glen Ellen is the town where Jack London lived and wrote many of
his most famous stories. A favorite destination for visitors is Jack London’s
Beauty Ranch which has been transformed into a state historic park, a continuing
memorial to this exceptional, multi-talented author.
Before departing for Iron Horse Vineyards, we
were warned to call ahead to be sure the road was open in case there had been a
hard rain. As it happened, the day was lovely as we drove up the hill to our
next stop. This tasting bar was not even a room, but an outside rustic, picncky
sort of set up. However, the wines were excellent and the list of patrons
impressive. An imposing group of pictures, letters and newspaper articles from
several past presidents who had served Iron Horse wines during official White
House dinners lined the office walls. On a lighter note, in Robert B. Parker’s
adventure novels featuring the Boston PI Spencer (For Hire), Iron Horse
sparkling wines were mentioned regularly.
The Armstrong Woods State Park in
Guerneville was our next stop and one not to be missed. We drove the serene
three mile loop through the coastal redwood grove of massive trees, wondering at
their majesty. The reserve is home to these remarkable trees which often live
to be 500-1,000 years old, grow in diameter to 12-16 feet and often stand from
200-250 feet tall. A few trees have survived more than 2,000 years and tower
towards the sky at over 350 feet. Had there been more time, we surely would have
preferred a day spent hiking through this area.
Our final winery visit was to
the Hartford Family Winery in Forestville, another second generation wine
establishment. Founded in 1993, these vineyards are situated about 15 minutes
from the Pacific Ocean which creates an ideal climate for producing much of
their limited production of 15 types of wine. The Hartford winery’s most notable
treasures are the 80-100 year old Russian River Valley Zinfandel vineyards. On
this, our final stop, we treated our taste buds while increasing our knowledge
of the wine making process with Hartford’s winemaker, Jeff Mangahas.
In Guerneville, we dined at the new Charizma Wine Lounge which also offers a food menu. The owner’s Swedish
heritage came through in many of the dishes served in this charming wine and
dinner lounge. Several tables were set with white linen table cloths ready for
dining on one side of the room while cozy chairs and sofas were available for
guests sipping some of the great wines of Sonoma and other locales.