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UPSCALE INDIAN IN THE HEART OF LONDON

By Heather Hobson

For many, traveling and eating are synonymous. I had an exquisite experience at an Indian restaurant in Berkeley Square called Benares. Owner and acclaimed chef Atul Kochar adapts homemade recipes he acquires while traveling in India, then adds his own twist to craft an eclectic and savory menu with contemporary panache.

We went to Benares on a Monday night in July ’06 without a reservation. There was nothing available in the dining room but we were seated in their elegant lounge. The design, lighting, and ambient music complimented one another to create a tranquil yet groovy atmosphere.

While the food was spectacular, from seafood curries to lamb shank to chicken dishes, what struck me most was the uncompromising service. The staff was magnificent. They were very knowledgeable, not only about the menu items but also about the chef and his philosophy. When my companions decided to throw me an impromptu birthday party, the Benares staff went out of their way to provide a birthday cake. They didn’t have anything on hand so they went to a bakery to purchase a cake then served it as if it was one of their own creations. When we were done with our meal they even arranged a taxi to pick us up.

The menu is a bit pricey, starting at about 18 GBP for entrée items. Count on spending about 40 GBP per person. Despite the price tag, the flavors, service, and ambiance are unbeatable. Benares is located at 12a Berkeley Square House, Berkeley Square, London, W1J 6BS. They can be reached at 020 7629 8886 or visit them on the web at www.benaresrestaurant.com .

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