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 TM
Woman on Wine
By Amy Reiley
 Normally, my column offers a grab bag
of wines, a little something from here, a little something from over there. But
every once in a while, one winery grabs me so tightly that I can’t see beyond
its finely crafted charms. Tasting through this year’s new releases from
Sonoma County’s Ravenswood Winery, I knew I was in the embrace of a Zinfandel
obsession. This month I bring you the many zins of Ravenswood, perfect wines
for warming up a cold snap or sipping apres a good old fashioned leaf jump.
2004 Belloni Vineyard, Russian River Valley
I’d call this one a woodsy wine. Aromas and flavors are both earthy and fresh.
But don’t think you’ll be tasting twigs, the wine also boasts tart cranberry and
blackberry flavors. A tiny catch of black pepper at the back of the palate
rounds out the fruit and forest tango. Sex-y. $$$
2004 Barricia Vineyard, Sonoma Valley
Tinged with sweetness, this is one of those super jammy, big, fun and - of
course - alcoholic Zinfandels. With just a hint of smoke, it cries out for BBQ,
but its big, fruity sweetness might make it just the match for dessert. $$$
2004 Teldeschi, Dry Creek Vally
A stealth Zin in that classic Dry Creek style, Ravenswood’s Teldeschi offers
blackberry bramble aromas and that beautiful, open, red and black fruit flavor
for which the region is known. Ripe tannins and just a mere hint of black pepper
add to the character. Love it. $$$
2004 Old Vine, Sonoma Valley
This is the big daddy of Ravenswood wines. Its complexity eclipses most
California Zins. With hints of cocoa and ripe tannins playing with the classic
cherry and blackberry flavors, this is a great big bear of a wine.
Unfortunately, the finish disappoints a bit for such a big, bad wine. $$$$
2004 Dickerson, Napa Valley
Like many Napa Zins, this tastes more like a Zin/Cab blend than the kind of
wines we come to expect from Sonoma soil. A lightweight, it is more food
friendly than many Zinfandels, with red cherry dominating the aromas and
flavors. $$$
2004 Big River, Alexander Valley
Great, soft tannins give the wine character without bite. Aromas are very cherry
cola, though the flavors offer raspberry pie and just a hint of white pepper on
the tip of the tongue. $$$
$ under 15USD
$$ 15-25USD
$$$ 25-50USD
$$$$ over 50USD
Woman on Wine is Master of Gastronomy Amy Reiley’s monthly
wine column. Amy is also the author of Fork Me, Spoon Me: the sensual cookbook,
www.forkmespoonme.com.
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