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The Azores
Discovering the Islands of the Explorers
 The nine islands of the Azores archipelago are a thousand
nautical miles from any place else. They exist at the very spot that the
tectonic plates for Europe, Africa and North America meet. These are wild
and diverse bits of earth, built from ancient volcanic eruptions. The
Azores, an autonomous region of Portugal, are unlike anywhere else on earth.
And, just four hours by plane from Boston, they are a breathtaking
destination, undiscovered by most Americans.
Situated about 1,000 miles from the European coast and about
2,000 miles from North America, the Azores consists of nine unique islands
divided into three groups:
* the eastern (São Miguel and Santa Maria)
* the central (Terceira, Graciosa, São Jorge, Pico and Faial)
* the western (Corvo and Flores).
It is said that in the Azores, people still remember what
the rest of the world has forgotten. Life moves at a different pace, and a
handshake means more than an e-mail greeting. While these are without
question some of the most beautiful islands in the world, they remain an
emerging destination. Rather than focusing on the mass tourist market, the
government of the Azores has nurtured an infrastructure to welcome the
visitor who seeks a personalized and unique experience. In the towns,
valleys, and seashore, fine hotels have been built in ancient monasteries
and palaces. Azoreans are truly pleased to share their homeland with
visitors.
Unspoiled, Authentic, and Diverse
To find the Azores, look at a map of North America and draw a line due east
from New England. The islands were created by dramatic volcanic activity
hundreds of millions of years ago, building an environment that is both
unexpected and varied. From the 7,700-foot peak of Pico island, to the blue
and green lakes at Sete Cidades on São Miguel, the Azores offers a lush and
sculptured landscape that is reminiscent of many places: The green fields
and gentle hills resemble Ireland. The baroque cities and classical
architecture are like those of the north of Portugal. The mountains and
valleys resemble northern California. The geysers and craters remind one of
Iceland.
There are sapphire blue and emerald green lakes; stone
wall-lined prairies, volcanic cones and craters; wild hydrangeas and
azaleas; 15th-century Gothic churches, and grand manor houses. This
ocean-enveloped land enjoys a mild climate year-round (between 57°F and
71°F) and is lightly populated with 240,000 inhabitants in 868 square miles.
The volcanic genesis of the Azores is unmistakable.
Thousands of years of vegetation cannot hide the deep craters, some of which
are filled with deep lakes today. Geysers and sulfur springs are common. The
Azores are also known for their rolling landscapes, sprinkled with tiny
settlements of whitewashed or black stone houses. The hillsides are planted
with vineyards, tea, and fruit orchards. Some coastlines are strewn with
black rocks, rugged and often plunging hundreds of feet into the emerald
sea. But, there are plenty of welcoming bays, natural pools, beaches, and
inlets for swimming and sunbathing (the water temperature is warm enough
year-round). Watersports, fishing and whalewatching are widely available.
Equally popular is yachting, horseback riding, cycling and hiking.
A New England Connection
 The ties that bind the Azores to New England go back 300 years, when many
English ships carrying colonists to the New World stopped in the Azores for
supplies and rest. Azoreans were among the first to fish the waters of North
America. Many Portuguese historians believe that sailors from the Azores
sighted North America years before Columbus.
For centuries, sailors had stopped in the Azores to take on
oranges, the only way to ward off scurvy. It is also certain that every
major whaling expedition from Nantucket, New Bedford, Edgartown, and other
ports, sailed first on to the Azores for supplies, dories, and sailors. This
built the foundation of a strong commercial bond between the sailing ships
of New England and the Azores. From Moby Dick, to the New Bedford whaling
museum, the Azores became a vital piece of New England whaling. In fact, it
was New Englanders who taught the Azoreans the value of whaling. They became
so expert in their tiny boats at landing giant whales that American sea
captains came to the Azores just to get crews.
In the 18th and19th centuries, the islands became the main
port of call for transatlantic clippers. Boston merchants were at home in
Ponta Delgada on São Miguel. An 18th century American consul, Thomas
Hickling, built a fine mansion on that city's main avenue. Today, it is a
hospitality school and hotel, offering fine food and lodging with New
England flair (Hotel São Pedro). Hickling's original estate is in the resort
town of Furnas. Here, Hickling built a lush botanical garden, using the
heated waters from the local geysers. The garden, adjacent to the art deco
Terra Nostra Hotel, is open to the public today. In 1944 an American airbase
was set up on Santa Maria, and was later transferred to the NATO airbase at
Lajes on Terceira.
As the whaling industry declined following the introduction
of crude oil in the 1870s, many Azoreans began to immigrate to New England.
They brought their work ethic to the mills in southeastern New England, and
to the fishing industries around New Bedford and Gloucester, Massachusetts.
They also made a significant cultural impact on New England. Popular summer
feasts and festivals in Portuguese communities in New England all trace
their roots to the Holy Ghost festivals of the Azores.
Foods that are commonplace in New England kitchens are also
uniquely Azorean – Portuguese sweet bread, Portuguese muffins, red pepper
paste, and linquiça sausage. Even the way New Englanders often pronounce
Portuguese foods – "churrice" for chouriço sausage – show the range of
Azorean influence. By 1998, immigration from the Azores had ended. Today,
there are twice as many people of Azorean decent living outside the Azores
today than in the country.
A Quick History of the Azores
 A Portuguese sailor, Diogo de Silves, claimed the Azores for Portugal in
1427. Within 12 years the Portuguese had charted seven of the islands, and
in 1443 built the first settlements.
In1452, Captain Diogo de Teive sighted the final two islands
of Corvo and Flores. The settlement of the islands was broken into
captaincies, with each captain responsible for bringing settlers and
building infrastructure. The rich farmlands, abundant water, and mild
climate made the Azores an inviting place for the new arrivals. They grew
wheat and other grains, and soon found out that a wide variety of plants,
collected by Portuguese explorers from around the world, could flourish.
Because of the Azores' strategic geographic position, the
archipelago became the center of navigation between Europe, Africa, the East
and the Americas during the 16th and 17th-centuries. This period saw several
major naval battles off the coast of the Azores between Spanish and English
fleets, as well as with pirates. Subsequent centuries saw the development of
the islands, the introduction of new agriculture, and the development of
cattle breeding and fishing industries.
Isolated from the rest of the world, the Azores progressed
at their own pace, fending off pirates, building trade with both sides of
the Atlantic, and living through periods of great prosperity due to high
demand for their oranges, wines, and whaling. Today the Azores are an
autonomous region of Portugal with a regional parliament and government.
Ponta Delgada is the seat of the government ministries, while the regional
parliament meets at Horta, and the regional president has offices in Angra.
The elegant and expansive architectural palette of the
islands reflects that history. Ranging from gothic, to mannerist, to
baroque, the Azores offer every major Portuguese style since 1450, and with
a unique local flair -the use of volcanic stone for building materials. The
period from the 15th to the 18th-centuries brought great public works and
religious building projects. Azorean baroque has a character all its own due
to the local black stone and the lag time with trends from the rest of
Europe.
Angra do Heroísmo (a UNESCO World Heritage Site) was the
first Atlantic city built according to Renaissance 16th century planning
standards and is rich in cultural heritage, with well-preserved churches,
palaces and fortresses
The Azores developed their own culture and lexicon, and a wealth of writers
and poets. Azoreans are their own people. They are proud of their heritage,
independence, and strong character that helped them turn nine islands in the
middle of the Atlantic into such a special place.
The Nature of the Azores
One of the wonders of this archipelago is the bio-diversity of its trees and
plants, brought from locations around the world. The Azores began, for the
most part, as lava. Then the winds brought grasses and bit of organic debris
By the time humans arrived there were plants and evergreen forests
throughout the islands. Humans brought new plantings, such as the
cryptomeria conifer (Japanese cedar) from Japan. All told, there are some
800-plus species of plants – only 300 of them are native. Cedar trees,
heather, ling, mountain grapes, white wood, ginger, dogwood and the tamujo
bush are a few of the local species. The newcomers include the acacia tree,
flowering hydrangea and azaleas, camellia, incense and other ornamental
plants. Despite their proximity, each island has its own look, feel, and
climate. And, thus the fauna can vary dramatically from island to island.
The Azores' commitment to the environment led the European
Union to recognize the islands in 1995 in the European Awards for Tourism
and the Environment The Azores offer numerous natural reserves, protected
landscape, parks and forests.
The Azores takes it name from the sea hawk, and birds can be
seen and heard everywhere on the islands, from the night calls of the
cagarro, to the nests of swallows. The most common non-domesticated animals
on the Azores are birds. More than 150 species can be seen, of which about
35 breed in the Azores
They include various types of seagulls, plovers, terns,
chaffinches, sparrows, bullfinches, buzzards, goshawks, and doves. The
priolo, a native species, the hawk, blackbird, cagarro, wood pigeon, and
common and red garajau are also common. The sea off the Azores is home to
many species of fish and shellfish, as well as sperm whales. Not
surprisingly, underwater diving and snorkeling are very popular.
Whalewatching
From the beginning, the Azoreans hunted whales for oil. They were so
successful that every major Atlantic whaling expedition would stop in the
Azores. In 1979, Portugal not only outlawed whaling, but also made the deep
waters around the Azores a natural reserve. The economic impact to the
whaling industry was replaced by the eco-tourism of whale and marine-life
watching that soon took over. Former whalers became guides, spotters, and
hosts in museums.
Today, whale watching in the Azores often means going out to
sea in a small semi-inflatable motor boat in search for the largest mammal
on the planet. Launches ferry people to the whales for a close-up encounter.
New laws passed by the Regional Government protect the whales and the
visitors by limiting the number of boats, and the speed and distance they
can use to approach a herd. Experienced guides offer insights into the lives
of these creatures and, best of all, seeing a whale is almost guaranteed.
This is because on mountainsides throughout the central group of islands,
former whalers are posted as spotters, radioing in the position and number
of whales to the boats. Local whales include sperm whales, northern
bottlenose, pilot, sowerby's beaked whales, and occasionally orcas. Two
excellent whaling museums may be found on the island of Pico, detailing the
history and culture of the now-banned trade.
The dolphins that are commonly sighted on these trips
include: Atlantic bottlenose, risso, Atlantic spotted and striped. The
protected waters has not simply been good for the whale watching industry,
but has helped numerous whale species to recover and prosper, making whale
watching an exciting and unique experience.
Peter Café Sport, Faial
Tel: 351 292 292327
www.whalewatching-azores.com
Espaço Talassa, Pico
Tel: 351 292 672010
www.espaotalassa.com
Azorean Cuisine
Food in the Azores has a Portuguese base, but with a strong local flavor.
Limpets (a shellfish), crayfish and rabbit stews are specialties. Octopus
stewed in wine is typical of São Miguel, while beef stew is traditional on
Terceira. Fish chowders are rich and tasty, and the fresh catch of the day
is featured at most eateries.
The wide variety of local fish is a benefit of being in the
middle of the ocean, and each island has its own way of preparing the bounty
of the sea. On land, there is no shortage of cows, grazing in natural
pastures. Thus, the Azores offer fine beef, served in numerous ways
including grilled and roasted in a wine sauce. And, the Portuguese staple of
salted codfish is omnipresent here, with unusual local and traditional
mainland recipes.
There is a large variety of local cheeses, mostly made from
cow's milk. São Jorge's cheeses are famous throughout Europe. And, São
Miguel, Pico, and Faial also produce excellent cheeses. Try them on any of
the many local breads, from the sweet breads, to the flat breads of Pico, or
the levedo muffins of São Miguel. And, the vast array of pastries and cakes
makes the Azores a sweet place to visit. Try grilled pineapple, Dona Amelia
cakes, or the cheese cakes from either Graciosa or Vila Franca on São
Miguel.
Pineapple hot houses are unique to the Azores, with the
island of São Miguel boasting more than 6,000. The local pineapple is quite
different than any other, with a small crown, and an intense flavor. Better
yet, it is grown year-round. Add pineapple to the many pastries and cakes of
the Azores, and any local meal is guaranteed to end well.
While there is no shortage of table wines from the mainland,
fine wines, liqueurs and brandies are distilled on the islands. Be sure to
try the wines of the lava soil of Pico, the excellent wines of Graciosa, and
wine from the north coast or Terceira. Exotic fruits are made into liqueurs
and potent brandies. And, Especial, the local beer, is an excellent lager.
Golf and Sports
With a mild climate and lush vegetation, the Azores are perfect for outdoor
sports. Golf, tennis, bicycling, hiking, parasailing and horseback riding
are all offered. Yachts from around the world dock in the harbors of Horta,
Ponta Delgada, and Praia da Vitoria. Deep-sea fishing, diving, surfing, wind
surfing, and sailing are also to be found on all of the islands.
Golf is special here, with three excellent courses (two on
São Miguel and one on Terceira). Verdegolf on São Miguel operates two
beautiful world-class courses, the 1939 Furnas course, and the new Batalha
course. Both take advantage of vistas and natural features to offer a unique
golfing experience. In June of 2003, another nine holes were added to the
Batalha course, to make it a golfing destination all its own. And new course
is also planned for Pico.
Verdegolf
Tel: 351 296 498-559
Fax: 351 296 498-284
E: verdegolf@virtualazores.com
Walking and Biking Tours
>From seacoasts to valleys, from gardens to forests, the Azores offers a
wide range of landscapes to explore on foot. Country hedgerow lanes and open
fields leading to extinct volcanic craters. The Azores are best appreciated
slowly and on foot, and most islands have designated hiking areas, with maps
offered at the local tourism office.
Another great way to experience the Azores is by bicycle.
Little used country roads, mountain passes, and seaside roads lend
themselves to visitors in search of sweeping mountain and ocean views,
waterfalls, and volcanic lakes. Well-paved and graded roads make cycling a
pleasure for any experience level For the more adventurous, dirt backroads
lead to hidden valleys, gardens, and tiny towns. Peter Café Sport offers
one-way biking tours down from the heights of Faial to Horta.
Easy Rider Tours
Tel: 800 488-8332
Fax: 978 463-6988
E: info@easyridertours.com
www.easyridertours.com
Azorean Crafts
There is long tradition of local crafts in the Azores. Shoppers will find
many quality handmade items to browse through, from scrimshaw, to baskets,
ceramics and textiles, and furniture. Folk figurines, flowers made from
dried fish scales, embroideries and lace, and knit blankets and bedspreads
are other typical treasures. Using local materials, the Azorean artisans in
Lagoa also make blue and white ceramic pieces. And, the scrimshaw art
continues with whalebone and teeth recovered from the sea (where it was
dumped in the whaling days) being carved and etched. Jewelry pieces, such as
pendants and earrings are also crafted with whalebone. The Azores are also
known for their miniature whaleboats. Lastly, some island produce dolls made
from the pith of fig trees, corn husk and hydrangea.
Getting There
Azores Express Airlines, a member of the SATA Group, offers
daily service from Boston Logan Airport to the Azores and Lisbon from June
to September. Azores Express also offers two, four-hour flights every week
to the Azores in the winter and spring (with connecting service to Lisbon
and Madeira). The airline offers direct flights on wide-body aircraft to São
Miguel, the main island in the Azores archipelago, and to the historic
island of Terceira in the summer. Direct flights to Portugal's capitol of
Lisbon are offered in the summer, with one-stop connecting service offered
the rest of the year. SATA offers connecting flight to all of the islands.
Azores Express has connected New England with the Azores and
mainland Portugal for 14 years. The carrier is part of the SATA Group, which
connects the Azores, an autonomous region of Portugal, with the world. SATA,
founded in 1946, offers connecting service to all nine islands in the
Azores. The SATA Group was one of the few European airlines to report an
operating profit in 2002.
The airline operates a fleet of new Airbus A310s on
Trans-Atlantic routes. For more information and reservations, contact a
travel agent, or Azores Express at 800-762-9995, or visit its Website at
www.SATA.pt.
Azores Express
P.O. Box 2819
South Main Street
Fall River, MA 02721
Tel: 800-762-9995
Edited by Dave Shultz
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