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Cousiño-Macul, Great Food Wine

By Darryl Beeson

According to the Cousiño family, the selection process begins in the vineyard with restriction of the yield per vine and continues throughout the winemaking program. The winemaking objective for the Chardonnay is to produce a rich wine with concentrated fruit and acid balance that is intricately structured to age gracefully. 

Cousiño-Macul Antiguas Reservas Chardonnay, Chile 2002
Price $12.99
Rating 90

The 2002 Antiguas Reservas Chardonnay is the winery's first to be made entirely from the new Cousiño-Macul estate vineyards in Buin, which was acquired six years ago. Yields are controlled by Regulated Deficit Irrigation, canopy management, leaf stripping and green harvesting of the clusters at veraison. For the Antiguas Reservas, the goal is to concentrate the fruit flavors.

Explains Arturo Cousiño, "The Chardonnay is gently oaked to allow its sleek apple, nectarine and white peach fruit to shine through. On the palate there are subtle flavors of vanilla, cinnamon and nutmeg but the acidity keeps the flavor focus on the apple, citrus and kiwi fruit. The finish is long and persistent."

Cousiño-Macul Antiguas Reservas Cabernet Sauvignon, Chile 2002
Price $12.99
Rating 92

Six years ago, Cousiño Macul acquired a new site called Buin in a sub-region of the Mapio Valley. In response to technological advances being made in vineyards and winery practices, Cousiño family siezed the opportunity to develop Buin and make a leap into the future. Chile's oldest family-owned winery moved into its modern era just in time for the 2002 harvest. "As one of the few remaining independently-owned wineries on the international scene, Cousiño Macul's goal is to make world-class wines that offer high quality, are authentically Chilean and have true varietal character and express Chile's unique terroir," says Cousiño.

This Buin site was chosen for many different reasons, all contributing to the over-all quality of the wines being produced from these vineyards. The primary factors for chosing this site are soil, proximity to the Yeso (gypsum) River, and climate. The soil is shallow calcareous and has a sandy-silty texture as well as being rocky. These soils are generally less fertile which forces each vine to develop a stong root system to obtain nutrients. The combination of infertile soils and well-drained soils, contributes to vine stress which curtails vigor and encourages smaller berries and clusters that translate inot more concentrated flavor componets. The Yeso River has high a concentration of calcium which provides excellent nutrients to the vines. The micro-climate enjoys optimum sunlight and high daytime and low nighttime temperatures which encourages slow, incremental sugar development and contributes to color intensity, aroma profiles and natural fruit acidity.

"A powerful wine with great depth and concentration, this Cab is juicy and ripe with sweet, mature tannins and an excellent balance of fruit and French oak," suggests Cousiño.

Cousiño-Macul Finis Terrae, Chile 2002
Price       $20
Rating 92

"Dark garnet, this wine exhibits a complex aroma of blackberry fruit, with lovely highlights of violets, dark plum, cocoa powder and vanilla spice. On the palate the black fruits blossom and yield to flavors of cherry, rosemary and a hint of black truffle. The slightly firm tannins carry over into a lengthy, spicy finish," observes Cousiño. Match any of there wines with a lusty roasted leg of lamb.

Roast Leg of Lamb
with Potatoes A Lo Pobre
Recipe taken from www.billingtonwines.com.

Serves 8

1Whole leg of lamb, 6 - 8 pounds, bone inSalt and freshly ground black pepper10Whole cloves of garlic, peeled1 sprigRosemary plus a few rosemary sticks without the leaves1/4 cupOlive oil1 tablespoonSherry vinegar1 cupDry white wine 4 poundsPotatoes3 sprigsParsley
1. Season the leg of lamb with salt and pepper. Use a small knife to make small incisions all over

2. Mince 5 cloves of garlic and the one sprig of rosemary. Push some of the garlic-rosemary mixture into a few of the holes in the lamb. Insert the rosemary sticks into the rest of the holes. Massage 2 tablespoons of olive oil into the leg and let the lamb rest for two hours

3. Heat the over to 425 degrees.

4. Put the lamb into a shallow roaster and bake for one hour. Turn the lamb and back for 30 minutes.

5. Remove the fat from the pan. Add sherry vinegar and white wine and cook another 15 minutes (to test for doneness, use an instant read thermometer. Medium Rare is about 135 to140 degrees.) Remove the lamb from the oven and let it rest for 20 minutes, loosely covered with foil.

6. Peel the potatoes, cut into ½ inch rounds and put into a roasting pan with salt, minced parsley, the 5 remaining garlic cloves, mashed, and ¼ cup olive oil.

7. Roast at 425 degrees until tender.

8. To serve, slice the lamb and serve with potatoes and juices from lamb.

Darryl Beeson travels the world looking for great wine values. In the past, he has been wine steward or cellar master for The Mansion on Turtle Creek, Voltaire, and The Adolphus Hotel. Not one for stuffiness or secret handshakes relative to wine, this Texan might now be described as a "ki-yi-yippee sommelier, sommelier." Beeson reports on wine, spirits, food and travel for numerous publications.

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