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Refreshing Warm Weather Wines
By Darryl Beeson
Though one on these wines, the Morgan Pinot Gris, is a
dry white wine, the others retain a touch of sweetness offset by a balance
of bracingly crisp acidiity. All make for wonderful warm weather food
pairings.
Beringer Gewürztraminer, California 2003
Price $8
Rating 88
Grapes for the 2003 Beringer Gewürztraminer were grown
in White Hills Vineyard in California’s Central Coast, where cool Pacific
breezes and morning fogs maintain moderate daily temperatures, enabling the
delicate floral and stonefruit flavors of this varietal to develop evenly
throughout the growing season. A few concentrated hours of sunshine in the
afternoons helps the grapes achieve a full, ripe character that contributes
to a long, smooth finish in the resulting wine.
To retain Gewürztraminer’s delicately balanced aromas
and flavors, Beringer’s winemakers used the traditional technique of a long,
cool fermentation. Immediately following crush, the must (grapes and skins)
was chilled. Temperatures were kept cool throughout fermentation and just
before the wine reached dryness, winemakers chilled the must even further,
capturing fresh white peach and fragrant honey characteristics. The
resulting wine has heady aromas of citrus and orange blossom leading into
rich flavors of stonefruit and spice.
Beringer Chenin Blanc, Californi 2003
Price $6
Rating 88
The long, warm days and cool nights in California’s
Coastal vineyards provided ideal growing conditions for Beringer’s 2003
Chenin Blanc. Daytime sun encourages the fruit to ripen, developing soft
peach and ginger-honey flavors, while fog-shrouded evenings bring forward
crisp citrus and mineral notes. Additionally, dry summers that stretch
without rain from April through October allow the grapes a long, even
growing time to build more layers and complex flavors. Vineyard Manager Bob
Steinhauer commented: "It turned out to be a very good year. The late start
and long, cool season, allowed for a nice ripening curve that gave the
whites fantastic flavors."
Gentle handling and careful attention was given to the
Chenin Blanc grapes from the vine to the glass. To retain delicate, crisp
melon, citrus and pear varietal flavors, Beringer’s winemakers chilled the
juices immediately following crush and continued to closely monitor the
temperatures, keeping them cool throughout fermentation. Just before
dryness, the wine was cooled even further to halt fermentation and to retain
a smooth, lush mouthfeel and lingering finish.
Beringer Johannisberg Riesling, California 2003
Price $8
Rating 88
Grapes for the 2003 Beringer Johannisberg Riesling were
grown predominately in California’s Central Coast. The cool Pacific
influences combine with well-drained, rocky soils to create ideal growing
conditions for the Riesling varietal. Mornings masked in fog slowly burn off
to yield warm sunshine by early afternoon, enabling the grapes to develop
rich flavors. By evening, the fog returns, slowing the sugar development and
protecting the balancing acidity.
Riesling benefits from cooler temperatures throughout
the vinification process to retain its delicate floral and white peach
aromas and flavors. The result is a bright, crisp wine, popping with fresh
peach and jasmine flavors, highlighted with hints of orange blossom and
baking spice.
Morgan Pinot Gris,"R&D Franscioni Vineyard" Santa
Lucia Highlands 2003
Price $16
Rating 91
This delicate white wine is golden straw colored with
hints of pale green. There are notes of mandarin orange, mango, bracing
mineral, along with citrus, melon and pear within the sip. The finish is
bright and clean. Morgan Winery suggest pairing this winner of a food wine
with their local Monterey spot prawns sauteed with a touch of wine and
lemon, or sole in a light sauce.
Morgan specializes in Burgundian varietals from
Monterey County, focusing on the Santa Lucia Highlands, the cool east-facing
benchland overlooking the Salinas Valley.
Chateau St. Jean Johannisberg Riesling, Sonoma 2003
Price $12
Rating 89
Chateau St. Jean is a winemaking estate located at the
foot of Sugarloaf Ridge in the Sonoma Valley near Kenwood, California.
Founded in 1973, Chateau St. Jean produces exceptional wines solely for the
premium market. The glass offers tart green apple, grapefruit, orange/citrus
and lichee aromas and flavors. The noticeable, but not cloying sweetness at
just under 3 percent residual sugar. It is balanced by a bracing acidity.
Chateau St. Jean Gewürztraminer, Sonoma 2003
Price $12
Rating 89
This refreshing white is bursting with spicy fruit and
orange blossoms, along with ripe pear in the well-balanced citrus finish.
Try this Gewürztraminer with spicy food or fresh Summer salads.
Darryl Beeson travels the world looking for great wine
values. In the past, he has been wine steward or cellar master for The Mansion
on Turtle Creek, Voltaire, and The Adolphus Hotel. Not one for stuffiness or
secret handshakes relative to wine, this Texan might now be described as a "ki-yi-yippee
sommelier, sommelier." Beeson reports on wine, spirits, food and travel for
numerous publications.
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