Travellady MagazineTM


My Italian Family

By Madelyn Miller, the TravelLady

I am not Italian. None of my relatives have ever lived in Italy. But when I joined a group of travelers for 17 days in Italy, I had an instant Italian family. We bonded over food, wine and funny situations that only make you laugh if you share them.

People had chosen GoAhead Vacations “MAGIC OF ITALY” trip to Venice, Milan, Rome, Assisi and Sorrento for various reasons. Most wanted a vacation where everything was chosen for them and they could just relax and not worry about a thing. Several of the group had traveled with GoAhead before. Karen, who works with a travel agency, had done ten other trips with GoAhead and actually had done this very same trip six years before. Talk about customer loyalty.

On average, most of the travelers had done at least one GoAhead trip. I was a GoAhead virgin (is that an oxymoron?) although I had almost done this trip a few months ago http://www.travellady.com/Issues/August04/902TheTrip.htm

What I Expected

Because of the length of the trip, I thought there would be lots of older, retired people who would need some help getting around. Wrong, wrong, wrong. This was a very active trip, and I have to admit to being one of the stragglers. The average age of our group was less than 50. spanning from 20 to a little past 70.

So how did these lucky people get so much vacation time? We had two students who were not even 21 (they loved the drinking age in Europe and met two handsome young Italian men the very first day). A family of three from Ohio all worked in a hospital and had been there long enough to have earned longer vacations. A business owner and his wife from West Virginia found that their company had a record month while they were away—so they are already planning their next GoAhead Vacation. A dentist and his wife had finally gotten their kids out of college and could travel. And we did have a retired couple from Wyoming. Five divorced or widowed women made up the rest of the tour.

What I Liked Best

I loved our group of travelers. Maybe it was the guide who kept our spirits up through early wake-up calls, long bus rides, and accidents on the road and etc. Since I am a very independent, happily divorced individual, I wondered if I would really enjoy being with the same people for almost 50 meals. And since I travel about 200 nights a year, would I be in synch with people on their special-but-only two week vacation? Would I be sympatico being with people seeing Europe for the first time when I had been in Italy only six months before?

I wish I could find a dating service that matched up members as well as this group jelled. After days of being together, there were no personality conflicts and an amazing spirit of camaraderie. We were truly a family.

When I missed a wakeup call, everyone shared their snacks of breakfast bars. Offers of shawls, hats, sun-tan lotion and band aids were always made when needed. When one man accidentally erased all his photos on a digital camera, everyone pledged to send him theirs. If we were a kindergarten class, we would get top marks for sharing. And we stuck together until we graduated from the trip, weary but wiser, exhausted but exhilarated from the experience.

Sometimes we were so exhausted we could hardly remember which church we had seen the day before, but we never forgot who liked red wine, or white wine, or hated vegetables, or wanted chocolate. We were a family after a few days and watched out for each other’s allergies or weaknesses. We slowed down for the less energetic walkers. We waited patiently for the last minute shoppers. We knew who had to always make bathroom stops.

     

What I Liked Least

I am paradoxical. I always seem to want something different from other people. These energetic, high achieving travelers wanted total relaxation while they absorbed everything. By that I mean they loved the fact that the guide set every wakeup call, chose every meal, and made lots of decisions for the group. They wanted to learn a lot, see a lot, but not have to think about every little thing. That made sense given the hectic, somewhat overachieving lifestyles of our group. Kim, who works in a hospital emergency room, makes life and death decisions all day, every day. She really did not care what she had for dinner, as long as someone else prepared it and presented it to her on time.

I don’t take so long to get ready in the morning, so each night I would over-ride the wakeup call for a later time. One of the joys of eating out for me is choosing from a menu, so I was a tad frustrated eating the same meal with the same people every night. Just ask my children how I enjoy tasting everyone else’s meals. Not an option when everyone has the same thing.

I know that I was the only one on the trip that felt this way. Everyone else felt pampered by having everything pre-selected and pre-arranged for us.

GoAhead understands their market and caters to it meticulously. No wonder so many people travel with them again and again.

What I Would Do Differently

The optional excursions and dinners offered by GoAhead in each city were excellent. I was glad I choose each one. But I did not think it through well enough. If I only had two days in Florence, did I really want to spend one of them on an out-of-the-city excursion?

As I mature as a traveler, I am learning that I prefer more time in fewer places. But when I read a brochure, I am so tempted to sign up to see it all.

I can’t really make a recommendation here. I loved what I did—but wished I had more time for everything. But that is a reflection on how I live my life.

       

What I Wish I Had Known Before

I did a pretty good job of packing light. But when you are only at each hotel for about 36 hours, you must wash things out the minute you arrive or they might not be dry when you get your next 6am wakeup call. I twice found myself packing bundles of wet clothes in my hand luggage, only to have it dry out at the next destination. I travel with synthetics, but nothing seemed to dry quickly in Italy.

What I Wish I Had Taken

I wish I had brought:
1. More things to read on the bus rides between destinations. But since the group was so sharing, we exchanged guidebooks and magazines.
2. A few little presents for some of the local guides—perhaps Texas wine or something from my home to give them in addition to tips.

My Best Souvenirs

Lemoncello from Sorrento.
Scarves from markets everywhere (the perfect gift since one size fits all and they are lightweight to carry)
Interesting beads and necklaces from almost each city where we stopped.

My Favorite Places To Shop

I love markets. Here were a few I look forward to going back to.
The weekend market in Perugia.
The Saturday Market in Milan
Sunday Porta Puglese in Rome
The late night market open every night until 11 in Sorrento

And Coin Department Store will probably invite me back since I spent so much at so many of their stores.

The Best Optional Excursions

The Tenors in Rome was a wonderful introduction to the city. Extremely talented singers perform numbers from top operas each night. The food was good, the pace lively, and the tenors were world-class.

     

I also loved the day trip to Perugia. We lucked out by being there on a market day. There was a great guide to this interesting walled city and then we had a wine lunch at an Enotech. The pasta dish there is one I plan to try at home—fava beans, chopped tomatoes, and ricotta and spinach-stuffed ravioli served cold with an olive oil dressing. Cool, refreshing and very picturesque.

In Sorrento, there was an evening in an old ruin with folkloric music and fabulous food. I would go back there just to dine –and that is an unusually high compliment for a dinner theatre. The performance was colorful and charming—but it was a late night after an early morning wakeup—and I almost found myself dozing. Am I becoming one of those old people I worried about traveling with?

         

How To Save Money On a Goahead Vacation

Booking ahead yields substantial savings. And signing up for all  the optional trips as a package makes them very affordable. If you decide not to take an optional trip, or the excursion is cancelled, you get a credit for your next trip.

Go Ahead Vacations offers travelers the opportunity to experience the life-changing experience of travel.  As a member of one the world's largest tour companies offering over 175 itineraries and with over 100 affiliated offices in 40 countries around the globe, Go Ahead Vacations is  the leader in educationally-focused escorted sightseeing journeys, providing outstanding service and quality holiday and tour packages to the savvy traveler eager to experience “learning through discovery.”
http://www.goaheadvacations.com/master/destination/country.asp

1-888-GO-AHEAD (or 1-888-462-4323)

Best Way To Get To Italy

US’s seventh-largest airline, serving 181 communities in the U.S., Canada, Europe, the Caribbean and Latin America, US Airways, US Airways Shuttle and the US Airways Express partner carriers operate approximately 3,400 flights per day.  For more information on US Airways flight schedules and fares, visit US Airways online at WWW.USairways.com or call US Airways Reservations at 1-800-428-4322

Best Way to Get Around in Italy

RailEurope offers a Trenitalia Pass network which covers 16,000 km (10,000 miles) running daily through beautiful landscapes to connect big cities and small towns, all famous for their art and history. The trains are comfortable and quick and easy to navigate. I got to Turm directory from Venice in about three hours, it took just a little longer to get from Turm to Milan.
WWW.RAILeurope.com

Great Guidebooks

Gelato
Finding Italy’s best Gelaterias

Happy Belly Guide
Fancy Pants Press
www.happybellyguides.com
info@happybellyguides.com

more about Gelato from Travellady’s expert http://www.travellady.com/Issues/January05/1178Gelatos.htm

GREAT SLEEPS ITALY
By Sandra Gustafson
Florence. Rome. Venice
www.chroniclebooks.com

GREAT EATS ITALY
By Sandra Gustafson
Florence. Rome, Venice
www.chroniclebooks.com

Italy: INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE*
By Nan McElroy
*when all else fails, read the instructions
The personal, on-site assistant for the enthusiastic but inexperienced traveler
www.Italyinstuctions.com

Fodor’s see it Italy
Detailed maps and lots of color pictures
www.fodors.com

THE COMPLETE IDOIT’S GUIDE to ITALIAN HISTORY AND CULTURE
By Gabrielle Euvino with Michael San Filippo
www.idiotsguides.com

ITALY
INSIGHT GUIDES
www.insightguides.com

FODOR’S 04 ITALY
Shows you the way on and off the beaten path
WWW.fodors.com

Rick Steves Italy 2005
Avalon Publishing
www.ricksteves.com

BERLITZ POCKET GUIDE ITALY
www.berlitzpublishing.com

Speak Like an Italian

THE COMPLETE IDIOT’S GUIDE TO LEARNING ITALIAN
By Gabrielle Euvino
www.idiotsguides.com

THE POCKET IDIOT’S GUIDE to Italian
By Gabrielle Euvino
www.idiotsguides.com

Rick Steve’s ITALIAN PHRASEBOOK AND DICTIONARY
Avalon Travel Publishing
www.Ricksteves.com

BERLITZ Surviving in Italian
A handy mini phrase book with maximum information
www.berlitzpublishing.com

BERLITZ Shopping in Italian
Pocket-size with easy to read pronunciation
www.berlitzpublishing.com

Eat Like An Italian

LA DISPENSA DI FIE
By Stefan Pramstrahler
Hugendubel
www.hugendubel.de

BERLITZ Eating and Drinking in Italian
Convenient pocket size
www.berlitzpublishing.com

How to Pronounce French, German and Italian Wine Names
By Dianna Bellucci
They also include a bonus of Austrian, Spanish and Portugese Wine Names
Luminosa Publishing
www.howtopronounce.com

LANGENSCHEIDT’S POCKET MENU READER ITALY
A gastronomic dictionary, phrasebook and guide

EUROPE’S TOP RESTAURANTS 2004
Zagat Survey
www.zagat.com

Shop Like An Italian

Suzy Gershon’s Born to Shop Italy
The Ultimate Guide for People Who Love to Shop
www.frommers.com

Cook Like An Italian

Order your own set of The Best of Ciao Italia..in Umbria and The Best of Cias Italia..in Tuscany. You can enjoy four of Mary Ann’s favorite programs that capture the hearat and soul of Umbria, a delightful, unspoiled and undiscovered region of Italy known for taste-tempting food markets, glorious street festivals, aroma-filled kitchens, fine art, friendships and more. The sets include interactive menus and printable PDF recipes.

THE BEST OF GOURMET
Featuring the Flavors of Rome
From the editors of Gourmet Magazine.
Random House
www.randomhouse.com

MANGIAMO  Let’s Eat!
A collection of family recipes by Sylvia Sebastiani
Sebastiani Vineyards

Taste Italian Food at Home

Try Sacla’s Classic Basil Pesto Sauce on your pasta at home. Robust bail leaves, fresh Grana Padano and Pecorino Romano cheese, ripened pine nuts, biting garlic and pure olive oil.

Listen To Italian Music

Italian Café Music
Putumayo World Music
www.putumayo.com

Most Socially Correct Souvenir

Orphange Africa Love Beads
Sexy e Solidali
By Missoni

Made in Ghana, all profits from this lovely necklace or belt (if your waist is small enough) go to an African orphanage. Made from thin, flexible tubes filled with colorful little beads, each piece of jewelry also has three bells inside in accordance with some African superstituion. You can buy this jewelry in any Missoni store or at
www.oafrica.org

Madelyn’s favorite Italian wines

Rosa Regale by Castello Banfi
Prosecco
Brachetto

Rome

RICK STEVE’S ROME 2004
Avalon Travel Publishing
www.Ricksteves.com

SHOPPING IN ROME
Insights Guide
www.insightguides.com

INSIGHT GUIDE INSTANT ROME
www.insightguides.com

ACCESS ROME
By Richard Saul Wurman
HarperResource
www.harpercollins.com

INSIGHT FLEXIMAP ROME
Laminated for durability
www.insightguides.com

Wear your favorite city on a scarf! Tasaram's 100% silk Map Scarves feature detailed street plans of London, Paris, Rome, New York, San Francisco and Washington, D.C. with more cities coming soon.
www.mapscarves.com

BERLITZ City Guidemap
www.berlitzpublishing.com

WHERE TO EAT
Try brunch at the Cavalieri Hilton or dine in their rooftop Garden which has two Michelin stars
Rome Cavalieri Hilton
via A. Cadlolo, 101
00136 Rome, Italy
tel+39 06 35092233
fax+39 06 35450331
www.cavalieri-hilton.it
www.hilton.com

L’Olimpo is a rooftop restaurant above Ber…….with a fabulous view of Rome. Enjoy a wonderful panorama over the town from a very central location
SINA HOTELS -Piazza Barberini,23 - 00187

Gui dal Ponte
Il Ristorante Galleggiante
335 231119 or 349 679651
Lunch 12:15 to 2:30 Pm
Dinner 7:45 to 10:45 pm

My best Roman buddy, artist and entrepreneur Barbara Reale, is a frequent diner here and she shared this favorite with me. An award winning international chef is running the inspired kitchen. Fresh fish that tastes like it just jumped out of the water and exquisitely presented pastas are followed by some of the best desserts I have had in Rome. Don’t miss the crispy sugar basket filled with lemon cream and garnished with raspberries.
You can get there by car or take the glorious river boat Tevere Green.

Antica Trattoria Trilussa
Via di Ponte Sisto, 80
Roma 00153
Phone 06 5883411
My friend Rose Lee Hayden who lived in the Trastevere area took me to this local favorite. Reasonable prices, great food, and friendly service. Sit outside on a nice day.

BEST MEAL DEAL IN ROME
I ate my last super here, and I was frustrated I had not found this wonderful local restaurant sooner. The trendy graphics and lighting caught my eye. I wandered in for a pizza, and found they had a free buffet of pasta, pizza and salad if you ordered a drink. I had a sweet red bubbly wine (5 euro) and gorged myself on pizza. They have a salad and do it yourself sauce pasta at lunch plus an inexpensive breakfast buffet. Right near the train and not far from the metro, this is a bargain in a city where there are not many dining bargains. When coke costs 4 euro in a nothing special place near the Vatican, it is hard to believe you can get a good glass of Brachetto and a whole dinner for only a Euro more. Be sure to go downstairs (the steps are see through glass) to see the trendy bathroom and wine cellar.
The name means Double Zero.

Doppiozeroo
Via Ostiense 68
06 5730 1961
www.doppiozeroo.it
info@doppiozeroo.it

http://www.travellady.com/Issues/June05/1534BestMealDeal.htm

WHERE TO SHOP
The God Store
If shopping is your religion, you will worship this store. It has nothing to do with the Vatican, but sells many religious items and great souvenirs at absolute bargain prices. I bought two necklaces for five Euro each (just over Six dollars). Scarves were less than four euro. This could be a wonderful one stop shopping place for gifts to bring home.
Brunelli Dr. Armando
Vicolo del Quartiere 7
06 5895690
info@brunelliarmando.com
www.brunelliarmando.com

MOST RELAXING WAY TO SEE ROME FROM TIBER
Take a scenic riverboat ride down the Tiber on specially designed boats that are quiet and do not disturb the local animals. Imagine hearing the birds chirping and fish jumping out of the water in the middle of Rome. This is a great morning tour for weary travelers who will be refreshed by the fresh air and interesting commentary on the historic journey Romans took down this river at different times in history. The boat tour goes to Giu dal Ponte restaurant where you can get a wonderful meal. Once a month there is an evening romance cruise.
www.teveregreen.it
info@teveregreen.it
335 231119 or 349 679651

BEST CHOCOLATE SHOP
If you tire of Italian gelato, the next best indulgence is always chocolate. Try their delicious pralines with peperoncino and the sacher torte.

VALZANI
Via Del Moro n. 37 a/b
06/580 3792
Fax 06/580 3792
valzani@tiscali.it
www.valzani.it

Milan

WHERE TO EAT IN MILAN
FOUR SEASONS HOTEL MILANO
Cognoscenti all gather at the Four Seasons for power meals, whether they be in fashion, finance, or just in Milan to have fun.

I had dinner at La Verandah the first night I was in town and it certainly set the standard. Zucchini blossoms where in season, so I had the zucchini in blossom stuffed with ricotta cheese and mint. A feast for the eyes and the palate, this delicious dish is the only food dish pictured on the menu. Wise choice. I tasted my companion’s Zibello ham with spring salad and melon pearls and although it was delicious, the zucchini blossoms make my must-order-this-whenever-I-am-in-Milan list.

Our next course was a whole-wheat “cannelloni” pasta with burrata fresh cheese and mozzarella, dried and fresh cherry tomatoes and arugola. I barely had room for the typical Veal cutlet, Milanese style.

When I told the maitre d that my favorite Italian wine was Rosa Reglia from BAnfi Costello, he suggested a local wine from the “Po” River (70 miles from Milan) Cabanon Rose was a wonderful choice.

L’OPERA in the Hotel de Ville is the place for a power lunch when you are in the downtown financial district. The elegantly traditional room serves classical Italian cuisine and I had my best risotto Milanese here. Another standout dish is the smoked tuna with yogurt sauce and melon pearls, a daily special on the afternoon I dined there.
L’Opera
Via Hoepli, 6
20121 Milano
02 805 1231

BEST ICE CREAM
Italians love their gelatos, and tourists also find them a treat. One of my favorite guidebooks, Knopf Mapguides, lists the best ice cream stores in each region. Although I would have loved to have done that research, I will share with you the most unique ice-creams and sorbets that I found. They were at the Four Seasons Milan. Just a few of the fabulous flavors include: yogurt and broad bean, fennel (these are the two I tried and both were much more delicious than they sounded). Other times you can try saffron, basil-tomato, oil oil, mandarin and mint, mandarin and rosemary and red hot chili pepper sorbet.

DESIGNING PALATES
There seems to be a trend for designers and top stores to have restaurants. Try some of these delicious designer restaurants but don’t eat too much or you will never fit into the Italian clothes.
10 Corso Como Café
02 6592015

Just Cavalli
Via Camonens Torre
Branca Milano
02 311817

Bozart Café
Look for the jewelry on the first floor in the Bozart corner.
02 76316153

MOST EROTIC RESTAURANT NAME
69. This small restaurant is a refined, exclusive place that unites the best in the latest rends in design, music and high cuisine. The garden is a strong point for romantics. The bar is an imposing island faced in onyx marble and back lighted.

BEST CHOCOLATE DESSERT
L’Opera in Hotel de Ville has the richest, most decadent chocolate dessert in Milan (although I will continue on researching this project). A chocolate soufflé-like cake with a thick, creamy center that flows out over the surrounding fresh strawberries, blackberries and raspberries.
L’Opera
Via Hoepli, 6
20121 Milano
02 805 1231

BEST COFFEE SERVICE
Individual shots are served at Café Noir in the Gray Hotel. Choose your coffee from an impressive presentation and then sit back and sip in the most sensual coffee lounge in town.
Café Noir
Via San Raffaele, 6
20121 Milano, Italy
39 02 720 89 5.50

MOST EROTIC ROOM AMMENITY
Both the hotels I stayed in offered Delicate Wash in a bottle in the bathroom. I finally discovered this was for washing your private parts, not your underwear or cleaning the bidet.

BEST CEMETERY
People in Milan do everything with Style. Even their cemeteries are worth touring.  Milan  Monumental Cemetery is worth an hour or two if you appreciate architecture and design.
Cimitero Monumental
P.le Cimitero Monumentale
02 6599938
Open Tuesday to Sunday 8:30 to 17:30
Closed on Monday
Underground line 2. Stop Garibaldi FS (seems appropriate to take the underground to a cemetery). This was actually included by bus on my GoAhead tour.

MILAN
KNOPF MAPGUIDES
The city in section by section maps
www.aaknopf.com

Venice

WHERE TO EAT IN VENICE
The Met. This Michelin Star restaurant in the Metropole Hotel got rave reviews from everyone I spoke to. I planned to eat there and had already selected what I was going to order –the donkey stew, the eight part chocolate dessert and more. But an impending train strike meant I had to leave early to get to my next destination. Just one more good reason to get back.
Riva degli Schiavoni, 4149, I - 30122 Venezia, Tel. +39 041/5 20 50 44

Osteria  da Bacco. When in Italy, eat where the Italians eat. I followed this maxim, (actually, I followed three handsome gondoliers) to Osteria da Bacco. A friendly bar with wonderful sandwiches at bargain prices, it was a great stop. They sell half sandwiches, so you can try more. I enjoyed a fresh mushroom sandwich, a poscuitto and cheese sandwich and a grilled eggplant and cheese with tomato on a rosemary foccacio. Including a bottle of water my tab was less than 9 Euro, or about ten dollars.
Osteria da Bacco, Di Angiolin Franco, Castello 4620. Tel 041-522-2887

RICK STEVES’ VENICE 2005
Avalon Travel Publishing
www.ricksteves.com

BERLITZ Venice City GuideMap
www.berlitzpublishing.com

VENICE IN CONTEXT
By Robert Wayne
Includes two CD’s
www.europeincontext.com

INSIGHT POCKET GUIDE VENICE
www.insightguides.com

INSIGHT GUIDE INSTANT VENICE
www.insightguides.com

Florence

BERLITZ Florence City GuideMap
www.berlitzpublishing.com

MUSEUMS AND GALLERIES OF FLORENCE
Insight Guides
www.insightguides.com

Rick Steve’s Florence and Tuscany 1004
Avalon Travel Publishing
www.ricksteves.com

INSIGHT FLEXIMAP FLORENCE
Laminated, easy to use
www.insightguides.com

INSIGHT MUSEUM MAP FLORENCE
Includes all major museums and galleries
www.insightguides.com

Tuscany and Umbria

Walking and Eating in Tuscany and Umbria
By James Lasdun and Pia Davis
This book brings walkers and food lovers into the dazzling landscapes and hidden delights of two the Italy’s loveliest provinces.
A Penguin Book
www.penguin.com

ITALIAN LAKES

Knopf Mapguides
Italian Lakes
www.aaknopf.com

Italian Literature To Get You In The Mood

VENETIAN STORIES
By Jane Turner Ruylands
Pantheon Books
www.pantheon.com

The thoroughly engaging characters who are the focus of these stories are from different backgrounds and various Venetian neighborhoods, but their lives—and the stories—overlap and intersect in surprising and playful ways.

CASA ROSA
By Francesca Marciano
(author of Rules of the Wild)
Pantheon Books
www.pantheonbooks.com

A mesmerizing story of three generations of a twentieth-century Italian family who lived in a farmous in Puglia.

JOHN PAUL II
A personal portrait of the Pope and the Man
By Ray Flynn
St. Martin’s Press
www.stmartins.com

BEHIND LOCKED DOORS
By Frederic Baumgartner
The author is a former president of the American Catholic Historical Association and takes readers behind the scenes and offers an insider’s view on the highly secretive Papal Conclave.
Palgrave Macmillan
www.palgrave-usa.com

DANCES WITH LUIGI
By Paul Paolicelli
A moving an intimate memoir of award-winning television journalist Paul Paolicelli’s ancestral search.

UNDER THE SOUTHERN SUN
By Paul Paolicelli
Stories of the Real Italy and the Americans it Created
Part Travelogue, part journalism and part sociological study, this book follows Paolicelli as he explores Southern Italy dealing with the concept of heritage.
Thomas Dunne Books
A division of St Martin’s press
www.stmartins.com

VENICE AGAINST THE SEA
A city Besieged
By John Keahy
In a few years, much of Venice may be under water...can this beautiful city be saved?
Thomas Dunne Books
A division of St Martin’s press
www.stmartins.com

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