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My Italian Family
By Madelyn Miller, the TravelLady
I am not Italian. None of my relatives have ever lived in
Italy. But when I joined a group of travelers for 17 days in Italy, I had an
instant Italian family. We bonded over food, wine and funny situations that only
make you laugh if you share them.
People had chosen GoAhead Vacations “MAGIC OF ITALY” trip
to Venice, Milan, Rome, Assisi and Sorrento for various reasons. Most wanted a
vacation where everything was chosen for them and they could just relax and not
worry about a thing. Several of the group had traveled with GoAhead before.
Karen, who works with a travel agency, had done ten other trips with GoAhead and
actually had done this very same trip six years before. Talk about customer
loyalty.
On average, most of the travelers had done at least one
GoAhead trip. I was a GoAhead virgin (is that an oxymoron?) although I had
almost done this trip a few months ago
http://www.travellady.com/Issues/August04/902TheTrip.htm
What I Expected
Because of the length of the trip, I thought there would be
lots of older, retired people who would need some help getting around. Wrong,
wrong, wrong. This was a very active trip, and I have to admit to being one of
the stragglers. The average age of our group was less than 50. spanning from 20
to a little past 70.
So how did these lucky people get so much vacation time? We
had two students who were not even 21 (they loved the drinking age in Europe and
met two handsome young Italian men the very first day). A family of three from
Ohio all worked in a hospital and had been there long enough to have earned
longer vacations. A business owner and his wife from West Virginia found that
their company had a record month while they were away—so they are already
planning their next GoAhead Vacation. A dentist and his wife had finally gotten
their kids out of college and could travel. And we did have a retired couple
from Wyoming. Five divorced or widowed women made up the rest of the tour.
What I Liked Best
I loved our group of travelers. Maybe it was the guide who
kept our spirits up through early wake-up calls, long bus rides, and accidents
on the road and etc. Since I am a very independent, happily divorced individual,
I wondered if I would really enjoy being with the same people for almost 50
meals. And since I travel about 200 nights a year, would I be in synch with
people on their special-but-only two week vacation? Would I be sympatico being
with people seeing Europe for the first time when I had been in Italy only six
months before?
I wish I could find a dating service that matched up
members as well as this group jelled. After days of being together, there were
no personality conflicts and an amazing spirit of camaraderie. We were truly a
family.
When I missed a wakeup call, everyone shared their snacks
of breakfast bars. Offers of shawls, hats, sun-tan lotion and band aids were
always made when needed. When one man accidentally erased all his photos on a
digital camera, everyone pledged to send him theirs. If we
were a kindergarten
class, we would get top marks for sharing. And we stuck together until we
graduated from the trip, weary but wiser, exhausted but exhilarated from the
experience.
Sometimes we were so exhausted we could hardly remember
which church we had seen the day before, but we never forgot who liked red wine,
or white wine, or hated vegetables, or wanted chocolate. We were a family after
a few days and watched out for each other’s allergies or weaknesses. We slowed
down for the less energetic walkers. We waited patiently for the last minute
shoppers. We knew who had to always make bathroom stops.

What I Liked Least
I am paradoxical. I always seem to want something different
from other people. These energetic, high achieving travelers wanted total
relaxation while they absorbed everything. By that I mean they loved the fact
that the guide set every wakeup call, chose every meal, and made lots of
decisions for the group. They wanted to learn a lot, see a lot, but not have to
think about every little thing. That made sense given the hectic, somewhat
overachieving lifestyles of our group. Kim, who works in a hospital emergency
room, makes life and death decisions all day, every day. She really did not care
what she had for dinner, as long as someone else prepared it and presented it to
her on time.
I don’t take so long to get ready in the morning, so each
night I would over-ride the wakeup call for a later time. One of the joys of
eating out for me is choosing from a menu, so I was a tad frustrated eating the
same meal with the same people every night. Just ask my children how I enjoy
tasting everyone else’s meals. Not an option when everyone has the same thing.
I know that I was the only one on the trip that felt this
way. Everyone else felt pampered by having everything pre-selected and
pre-arranged for us.
GoAhead understands their market and caters to it
meticulously. No wonder so many people travel with them again and again.
What I Would Do Differently
 The optional excursions and dinners offered by GoAhead in
each city were excellent. I was glad I choose each one. But I did not think it
through well enough. If I only had two days in Florence, did I really want to
spend one of them on an out-of-the-city excursion?
As I mature as a traveler, I am learning that I prefer more
time in fewer places. But when I read a brochure, I am so tempted to sign up to
see it all.
I can’t really make a recommendation here. I loved what I
did—but wished I had more time for everything. But that is a reflection on how I
live my life.

What I Wish I Had Known Before
I did a pretty good job of packing light. But when you are
only at each hotel for about 36 hours, you must wash things out the minute you
arrive or they might not be dry when you get your next 6am wakeup call. I twice
found myself packing bundles of wet clothes in my hand luggage, only to have it
dry out at the next destination. I travel with synthetics, but nothing seemed to
dry quickly in Italy.
What I Wish I Had Taken
I wish I had brought:
1. More things to read on the bus rides between destinations. But since the
group was so sharing, we exchanged guidebooks and magazines.
2. A few little presents for some of the local guides—perhaps Texas wine or
something from my home to give them in addition to tips.
My Best Souvenirs
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Lemoncello from Sorrento.
Scarves from markets everywhere (the perfect gift since one size fits all and
they are lightweight to carry)
Interesting beads and necklaces from almost each city where we stopped.
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My Favorite Places To Shop
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I love markets. Here were a few I look forward to going
back to.
The weekend market in Perugia.
The Saturday Market in Milan
Sunday Porta Puglese in Rome
The late night market open every night until 11 in Sorrento
And Coin Department Store will probably invite me back
since I spent so much at so many of their stores.
The Best Optional Excursions
The Tenors in Rome was a wonderful introduction to the
city. Extremely talented singers perform numbers from top operas each night. The
food was good, the pace lively, and the tenors were world-class.
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I also loved the day trip to Perugia. We lucked out by
being there on a market day. There was a great guide to this interesting walled
city and then we had a wine lunch at an Enotech. The pasta dish there is one I
plan to try at home—fava beans, chopped tomatoes, and ricotta and
spinach-stuffed ravioli served cold with an olive oil dressing. Cool, refreshing
and very picturesque.
In Sorrento, there was an evening in an old ruin with
folkloric music and fabulous food. I would go back
there just to dine –and that is an unusually high compliment for a dinner
theatre. The performance was colorful and charming—but it was a late night after
an early morning wakeup—and I almost found myself dozing. Am I becoming one of
those old people I worried about traveling with?
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How To Save Money On a Goahead Vacation
Booking ahead yields substantial savings. And signing up
for all the optional trips as a package makes them very affordable. If you
decide not to take an optional trip, or the excursion is cancelled, you get a
credit for your next trip.
Go Ahead Vacations offers travelers the opportunity to
experience the life-changing experience of travel. As a member of one the
world's largest tour companies offering over 175 itineraries and with over 100
affiliated offices in 40 countries around the globe, Go Ahead Vacations is the
leader in educationally-focused escorted sightseeing journeys, providing
outstanding service and quality holiday and tour packages to the savvy traveler
eager to experience “learning through discovery.”
http://www.goaheadvacations.com/master/destination/country.asp
1-888-GO-AHEAD (or 1-888-462-4323)
Best Way To Get To Italy
US’s seventh-largest airline, serving 181 communities in
the U.S., Canada, Europe, the Caribbean and Latin America, US Airways, US
Airways Shuttle and the US Airways Express partner carriers operate
approximately 3,400 flights per day. For more information on US Airways flight
schedules and fares, visit US Airways online at
WWW.USairways.com
or call US Airways Reservations at 1-800-428-4322
Best Way to Get Around in Italy
RailEurope offers a Trenitalia Pass network which covers
16,000 km (10,000 miles) running daily through beautiful landscapes to connect
big cities and small towns, all famous for their art and history. The trains are
comfortable and quick and easy to navigate. I got to Turm directory from Venice
in about three hours, it took just a little longer to get from Turm to Milan.
WWW.RAILeurope.com
Great Guidebooks
Gelato
Finding Italy’s best Gelaterias
Happy Belly Guide
Fancy Pants Press
www.happybellyguides.com
info@happybellyguides.com
more about Gelato from Travellady’s expert
http://www.travellady.com/Issues/January05/1178Gelatos.htm
GREAT SLEEPS ITALY
By Sandra Gustafson
Florence. Rome. Venice
www.chroniclebooks.com
GREAT EATS ITALY
By Sandra Gustafson
Florence. Rome, Venice
www.chroniclebooks.com
Italy: INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE*
By Nan McElroy
*when all else fails, read the instructions
The personal, on-site assistant for the enthusiastic but inexperienced traveler
www.Italyinstuctions.com
Fodor’s see it Italy
Detailed maps and lots of color pictures
www.fodors.com
THE COMPLETE IDOIT’S GUIDE to ITALIAN HISTORY AND
CULTURE
By Gabrielle Euvino with Michael San Filippo
www.idiotsguides.com
ITALY
INSIGHT GUIDES
www.insightguides.com
FODOR’S 04 ITALY
Shows you the way on and off the beaten path
WWW.fodors.com
Rick Steves Italy 2005
Avalon Publishing
www.ricksteves.com
BERLITZ POCKET GUIDE ITALY
www.berlitzpublishing.com
Speak Like an Italian
THE COMPLETE IDIOT’S GUIDE TO LEARNING ITALIAN
By Gabrielle Euvino
www.idiotsguides.com
THE POCKET IDIOT’S GUIDE to Italian
By Gabrielle Euvino
www.idiotsguides.com
Rick Steve’s ITALIAN PHRASEBOOK AND DICTIONARY
Avalon Travel Publishing
www.Ricksteves.com
BERLITZ Surviving in Italian
A handy mini phrase book with maximum information
www.berlitzpublishing.com
BERLITZ Shopping in Italian
Pocket-size with easy to read pronunciation
www.berlitzpublishing.com
Eat Like An Italian
LA DISPENSA DI FIE
By Stefan Pramstrahler
Hugendubel
www.hugendubel.de
BERLITZ Eating and Drinking in Italian
Convenient pocket size
www.berlitzpublishing.com
How to Pronounce French, German and Italian Wine Names
By Dianna Bellucci
They also include a bonus of Austrian, Spanish and Portugese Wine Names
Luminosa Publishing
www.howtopronounce.com
LANGENSCHEIDT’S POCKET MENU READER ITALY
A gastronomic dictionary, phrasebook and guide
EUROPE’S TOP RESTAURANTS 2004
Zagat Survey
www.zagat.com
Shop Like An Italian
Suzy Gershon’s Born to Shop Italy
The Ultimate Guide for People Who Love to Shop
www.frommers.com
Cook Like An Italian
Order your own set of The Best of Ciao Italia..in Umbria
and The Best of Cias Italia..in Tuscany. You can enjoy four of Mary Ann’s
favorite programs that capture the hearat and soul of Umbria, a delightful,
unspoiled and undiscovered region of Italy known for taste-tempting food
markets, glorious street festivals, aroma-filled kitchens, fine art, friendships
and more. The sets include interactive menus and printable PDF recipes.
THE BEST OF GOURMET
Featuring the Flavors of Rome
From the editors of Gourmet Magazine.
Random House
www.randomhouse.com
MANGIAMO Let’s Eat!
A collection of family recipes by Sylvia Sebastiani
Sebastiani Vineyards
Taste Italian Food at Home
Try Sacla’s Classic Basil Pesto Sauce on your pasta at
home. Robust bail leaves, fresh Grana Padano and Pecorino Romano cheese, ripened
pine nuts, biting garlic and pure olive oil.
Listen To Italian Music
Italian Café Music
Putumayo World Music
www.putumayo.com
Most Socially Correct Souvenir
Orphange Africa Love Beads
Sexy e Solidali
By Missoni
Made in Ghana, all profits from this lovely necklace or
belt (if your waist is small enough) go to an African orphanage. Made from thin,
flexible tubes filled with colorful little beads, each piece of jewelry also has
three bells inside in accordance with some African superstituion. You can buy
this jewelry in any Missoni store or at
www.oafrica.org
Madelyn’s favorite Italian wines
Rosa Regale by Castello Banfi
Prosecco
Brachetto
Rome
RICK STEVE’S ROME 2004
Avalon Travel Publishing
www.Ricksteves.com
SHOPPING IN ROME
Insights Guide
www.insightguides.com
INSIGHT GUIDE INSTANT ROME
www.insightguides.com
ACCESS ROME
By Richard Saul Wurman
HarperResource
www.harpercollins.com
INSIGHT FLEXIMAP ROME
Laminated for durability
www.insightguides.com
Wear your favorite city on a scarf! Tasaram's 100% silk Map
Scarves feature detailed street plans of London, Paris, Rome, New York, San
Francisco and Washington, D.C. with more cities coming soon.
www.mapscarves.com
BERLITZ City Guidemap
www.berlitzpublishing.com
WHERE TO EAT
Try brunch at the Cavalieri Hilton or dine in their rooftop Garden which has
two Michelin stars
Rome Cavalieri Hilton
via A. Cadlolo, 101
00136 Rome, Italy
tel+39 06 35092233
fax+39 06 35450331
www.cavalieri-hilton.it
www.hilton.com
L’Olimpo is a rooftop restaurant above Ber…….with a
fabulous view of Rome. Enjoy a wonderful panorama over the town from a very
central location
SINA HOTELS -Piazza Barberini,23 - 00187
Gui dal Ponte
Il Ristorante Galleggiante
335 231119 or 349 679651
Lunch 12:15 to 2:30 Pm
Dinner 7:45 to 10:45 pm
My best Roman buddy, artist and entrepreneur Barbara Reale,
is a frequent diner here and she shared this favorite with me. An award winning
international chef is running the inspired kitchen. Fresh fish that tastes like
it just jumped out of the water and exquisitely presented pastas are followed by
some of the best desserts I have had in Rome. Don’t miss the crispy sugar basket
filled with lemon cream and garnished with raspberries.
You can get there by car or take the glorious river boat Tevere Green.
Antica Trattoria Trilussa
Via di Ponte Sisto, 80
Roma 00153
Phone 06 5883411
My friend Rose Lee Hayden who lived in the Trastevere area took me to this local
favorite. Reasonable prices, great food, and friendly service. Sit outside on a
nice day.
BEST MEAL DEAL IN ROME
I ate my last super here, and I was frustrated I had not found this
wonderful local restaurant sooner. The trendy graphics and lighting caught my
eye. I wandered in for a pizza, and found they had a free buffet of pasta, pizza
and salad if you ordered a drink. I had a sweet red bubbly wine (5 euro) and
gorged myself on pizza. They have a salad and do it yourself sauce pasta at
lunch plus an inexpensive breakfast buffet. Right near the train and not far
from the metro, this is a bargain in a city where there are not many dining
bargains. When coke costs 4 euro in a nothing special place near the Vatican, it
is hard to believe you can get a good glass of Brachetto and a whole dinner for
only a Euro more. Be sure to go downstairs (the steps are see through glass) to
see the trendy bathroom and wine cellar.
The name means Double Zero.
Doppiozeroo
Via Ostiense 68
06 5730 1961
www.doppiozeroo.it
info@doppiozeroo.it
http://www.travellady.com/Issues/June05/1534BestMealDeal.htm
WHERE TO SHOP
The God Store
If shopping is your religion, you will worship this store. It has nothing to do
with the Vatican, but sells many religious items and great souvenirs at absolute
bargain prices. I bought two necklaces for five Euro each (just over Six
dollars). Scarves were less than four euro. This could be a wonderful one stop
shopping place for gifts to bring home.
Brunelli Dr. Armando
Vicolo del Quartiere 7
06 5895690
info@brunelliarmando.com
www.brunelliarmando.com
MOST RELAXING WAY TO SEE ROME FROM TIBER
Take a scenic riverboat ride down the Tiber on specially designed boats that
are quiet and do not disturb the local animals. Imagine hearing the birds
chirping and fish jumping out of the water in the middle of Rome. This is a
great morning tour for weary travelers who will be refreshed by the fresh air
and interesting commentary on the historic journey Romans took down this river
at different times in history. The boat tour goes to Giu dal Ponte restaurant
where you can get a wonderful meal. Once a month there is an evening romance
cruise.
www.teveregreen.it
info@teveregreen.it
335 231119 or 349 679651
BEST CHOCOLATE SHOP
If you tire of Italian gelato, the next best indulgence is always chocolate.
Try their delicious pralines with peperoncino and the sacher torte.
VALZANI
Via Del Moro n. 37 a/b
06/580 3792
Fax 06/580 3792
valzani@tiscali.it
www.valzani.it
Milan
WHERE TO EAT IN MILAN
FOUR SEASONS HOTEL MILANO
Cognoscenti all gather at the Four Seasons for power meals, whether they be in
fashion, finance, or just in Milan to have fun.
I had dinner at La Verandah the first night I was in town
and it certainly set the standard. Zucchini blossoms where in season, so I had
the zucchini in blossom stuffed with ricotta cheese and mint. A feast for the
eyes and the palate, this delicious dish is the only food dish pictured on the
menu. Wise choice. I tasted my companion’s Zibello ham with spring salad and
melon pearls and although it was delicious, the zucchini blossoms make my
must-order-this-whenever-I-am-in-Milan list.
Our next course was a whole-wheat “cannelloni” pasta with
burrata fresh cheese and mozzarella, dried and fresh cherry tomatoes and arugola.
I barely had room for the typical Veal cutlet, Milanese style.
When I told the maitre d that my favorite Italian wine was
Rosa Reglia from BAnfi Costello, he suggested a local wine from the “Po” River
(70 miles from Milan) Cabanon Rose was a wonderful choice.
L’OPERA in the Hotel de Ville is the place for a power
lunch when you are in the downtown financial district. The elegantly traditional
room serves classical Italian cuisine and I had my best risotto Milanese here.
Another standout dish is the smoked tuna with yogurt sauce and melon pearls, a
daily special on the afternoon I dined there.
L’Opera
Via Hoepli, 6
20121 Milano
02 805 1231
BEST ICE CREAM
Italians love their gelatos, and tourists also find them a treat. One of my
favorite guidebooks, Knopf Mapguides, lists the best ice cream stores in each
region. Although I would have loved to have done that research, I will share
with you the most unique ice-creams and sorbets that I found. They were at the
Four Seasons Milan. Just a few of the fabulous flavors include: yogurt and broad
bean, fennel (these are the two I tried and both were much more delicious than
they sounded). Other times you can try saffron, basil-tomato, oil oil, mandarin
and mint, mandarin and rosemary and red hot chili pepper sorbet.
DESIGNING PALATES
There seems to be a trend for designers and top stores to have restaurants. Try
some of these delicious designer restaurants but don’t eat too much or you will
never fit into the Italian clothes.
10 Corso Como Café
02 6592015
Just Cavalli
Via Camonens Torre
Branca Milano
02 311817
Bozart Café
Look for the jewelry on the first floor in the Bozart corner.
02 76316153
MOST EROTIC RESTAURANT NAME
69. This small restaurant is a refined, exclusive place that unites the best
in the latest rends in design, music and high cuisine. The garden is a strong
point for romantics. The bar is an imposing island faced in onyx marble and back
lighted.
BEST CHOCOLATE DESSERT
L’Opera in Hotel de Ville has the richest, most decadent chocolate dessert in
Milan (although I will continue on researching this project). A chocolate
soufflé-like cake with a thick, creamy center that flows out over the
surrounding fresh strawberries, blackberries and raspberries.
L’Opera
Via Hoepli, 6
20121 Milano
02 805 1231
BEST COFFEE SERVICE
Individual shots are served at Café Noir in the Gray Hotel. Choose your coffee
from an impressive presentation and then sit back and sip in the most sensual
coffee lounge in town.
Café Noir
Via San Raffaele, 6
20121 Milano, Italy
39 02 720 89 5.50
MOST EROTIC ROOM AMMENITY
Both the hotels I stayed in offered Delicate Wash in a bottle in the bathroom. I
finally discovered this was for washing your private parts, not your underwear
or cleaning the bidet.
BEST CEMETERY
People in Milan do everything with Style. Even their cemeteries are worth
touring. Milan Monumental Cemetery is worth an hour or two if you appreciate
architecture and design.
Cimitero Monumental
P.le Cimitero Monumentale
02 6599938
Open Tuesday to Sunday 8:30 to 17:30
Closed on Monday
Underground line 2. Stop Garibaldi FS (seems appropriate to take the underground
to a cemetery). This was actually included by bus on my GoAhead tour.
MILAN
KNOPF MAPGUIDES
The city in section by section maps
www.aaknopf.com
Venice
WHERE TO EAT IN VENICE
The Met. This Michelin Star restaurant in the Metropole Hotel got rave
reviews from everyone I spoke to. I planned to eat there and had already
selected what I was going to order –the donkey stew, the eight part chocolate
dessert and more. But an impending train strike meant I had to leave early to
get to my next destination. Just one more good reason to get back.
Riva degli Schiavoni, 4149, I - 30122 Venezia, Tel. +39 041/5 20 50 44
Osteria da Bacco. When in Italy, eat where the Italians
eat. I followed this maxim, (actually, I followed three handsome gondoliers) to
Osteria da Bacco. A friendly bar with wonderful sandwiches at bargain prices, it
was a great stop. They sell half sandwiches, so you can try more. I enjoyed a
fresh mushroom sandwich, a poscuitto and cheese sandwich and a grilled eggplant
and cheese with tomato on a rosemary foccacio. Including a bottle of water my
tab was less than 9 Euro, or about ten dollars.
Osteria da Bacco, Di Angiolin Franco, Castello 4620. Tel 041-522-2887
RICK STEVES’ VENICE 2005
Avalon Travel Publishing
www.ricksteves.com
BERLITZ Venice City GuideMap
www.berlitzpublishing.com
VENICE IN CONTEXT
By Robert Wayne
Includes two CD’s
www.europeincontext.com
INSIGHT POCKET GUIDE VENICE
www.insightguides.com
INSIGHT GUIDE INSTANT VENICE
www.insightguides.com
Florence
BERLITZ Florence City GuideMap
www.berlitzpublishing.com
MUSEUMS AND GALLERIES OF FLORENCE
Insight Guides
www.insightguides.com
Rick Steve’s Florence and Tuscany 1004
Avalon Travel Publishing
www.ricksteves.com
INSIGHT FLEXIMAP FLORENCE
Laminated, easy to use
www.insightguides.com
INSIGHT MUSEUM MAP FLORENCE
Includes all major museums and galleries
www.insightguides.com
Tuscany and Umbria
Walking and Eating in Tuscany and Umbria
By James Lasdun and Pia Davis
This book brings walkers and food lovers into the dazzling landscapes and hidden
delights of two the Italy’s loveliest provinces.
A Penguin Book
www.penguin.com
ITALIAN LAKES
Knopf Mapguides
Italian Lakes
www.aaknopf.com
Italian Literature To Get You In The Mood
VENETIAN STORIES
By Jane Turner Ruylands
Pantheon Books
www.pantheon.com
The thoroughly engaging characters who are the focus of
these stories are from different backgrounds and various Venetian neighborhoods,
but their lives—and the stories—overlap and intersect in surprising and playful
ways.
CASA ROSA
By Francesca Marciano
(author of Rules of the Wild)
Pantheon Books
www.pantheonbooks.com
A mesmerizing story of three generations of a
twentieth-century Italian family who lived in a farmous in Puglia.
JOHN PAUL II
A personal portrait of the Pope and the Man
By Ray Flynn
St. Martin’s Press
www.stmartins.com
BEHIND LOCKED DOORS
By Frederic Baumgartner
The author is a former president of the American Catholic Historical Association
and takes readers behind the scenes and offers an insider’s view on the highly
secretive Papal Conclave.
Palgrave Macmillan
www.palgrave-usa.com
DANCES WITH LUIGI
By Paul Paolicelli
A moving an intimate memoir of award-winning television journalist Paul
Paolicelli’s ancestral search.
UNDER THE SOUTHERN SUN
By Paul Paolicelli
Stories of the Real Italy and the Americans it Created
Part Travelogue, part journalism and part sociological study, this book follows
Paolicelli as he explores Southern Italy dealing with the concept of heritage.
Thomas Dunne Books
A division of St Martin’s press
www.stmartins.com
VENICE AGAINST THE SEA
A city Besieged
By John Keahy
In a few years, much of Venice may be under water...can this beautiful city be
saved?
Thomas Dunne Books
A division of St Martin’s press
www.stmartins.com
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