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Soda Pops Nostalgic Soda Fountain & Sandwich Shop in Eagle River, Wisconsin Offers Up Lots of Snap, Crackle, and... Pop!By Naomi K. Shapiro
Exec. Chef and Proprietor, Jason Meinholz', unique hobby is collecting and restoring old-time soda machines; and thus he helps guests step back in time with his 1900s soda fountain -- and step forward in time with his new concept restaurant. This is one of the oldest operating soda fountains in the State of Wisconsin, and the restored Victorian tin ceilings, marble soda fountain, and old booths embody the flavor of the late 1800s. Jason told me that Dave Schlack originally built this historic Railroad Street business as a tavern in the late 1800s, until prohibition came in 1919, and the original soda fountain was born when Schlack's Whiskey was transformed into Schlack's Sodas. Dave's daughters took over the operation until 1970 and were followed by several consecutive owners under the name, Colonial House, until Meinholz became the owner of the ideal building for his old-time soda machines in 2002. He carefully began the painstaking process of restoration by returning all soda fountain components to their original working state. He stripped and repainted and restored the decorative Victorian metal ceiling panels with eight coats of peeling paint to their original grandeur. The gorgeous, clear-leaded glass now positioned between the center booths was believed to be from the early building. The tiniest restrooms with the original fixtures and terrazzo floors have also been retained. Five layers of old flooring were removed to reveal the 1900s period maple hardwood floors and surprise hidden trap doors. One of the surprises was that under the linoleum was a 1920s Milwaukee Sentinel sports page, and an old-type Schlack menu listing: "T-Bone Steak and Baked Potato...$.50, and Coffee... $.10.
Jason's desire to return this old building to its original look prompted his participation in Wisconsin's Main Street Program involving preservation of historical buildings. He stripped the front facade of its 1960s to 2000 appearance and returned its look to the bygone era of brick, awnings, and period signing. He won a prize for "Best Interior Renovation". But Soda Pops menu, with its 50s and 60s sandwich offerings, soups, and salads plus the fresh produce "filling station", with more than 70 condiments and toppings, can take your breath, I mean, your stomach space, away! The menu is very clever, including several items that recall figures from the soda pop industry, such as Biedenharn's Burger (first Coke bottler, 1894); Dr. Bradham's Chicken (Pepsi originator, 1898); New Bern Chicken Bacon Swiss (New Bern, NC is where Pepsi got its start in 1898); or Classic Grilled SPAM "n" Cheese (Hormel, Austin, Minnesota, 1937).
But, the "pops de resistance" and the reason for Soda Pops soda fountain and restaurant's name, are the more than 200 varieties of bottled sodas, including 43 root beers; 28 colas; 28 cream sodas; 3 sarsaparillas, 32 orange sodas; 15 ginger ale/birch beers; plus flavored sodas like Apple Beer from Utah; Almdudler National Soda of Austria; Batch No. 6 Green Apple; Cool Mountain Kiwi, mango, watermelon, Sparkling Pear; Blue Bubblegum; Crushed Melon; FuFuBerry; Jones Lemon Drop, Leninade Soviet-Style Soda; Indian Citrus Grapefruit; Nehi Peach, Cassis; Blackberry, Key Lime; Tommyknocker Almond Creme; and XTZ Berry Bomb.
Soda Pops is located in downtown Eagle River at 125 S. Railroad St. Phone: 715-479-9424 You can also get more information from the Eagle River Chamber of Commerce; 800-359-6315; 715-479-6400; e-mail: info@eagleriver.org; web: www.eagleriver.org Naomi K. Shapiro, cre8vads@cheqnet.net |
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On a recent trip to Eagle River (Wisconsin), I discovered
Soda Pops award-winning soda fountain and sandwich shop, serving up healthy
doses of fun, food, nostalgia, and, yes, more than 200 varieties of soda pop, to
locals and visitors alike.
The black and white fountain counter and booth tables are
original Vitrolite glass made by the Ford Glass Company. The brass buttons in
the concrete by the "Filling Station (salad bar) were from crosswalks in the
1930s streets to caution children, "Safety First." 
Sandwiches include: Soda Pop Collector's Club Sandwich;
Vicksburg Smokehouse; Fresh-Up; Wisconsin Farmers Garden; Soda "Jerk" Chicken;
Waco Texas Style Beef n'Pork (Dr. Pepper got its start in Waco Texas, in 1885);
Pop's Chicken Philly; Railroad Street Cheese-Steak; and, my favorite, Eagle
River Cranberry Meatball -- a classic from Eagle River's annual October
Cranberry Festival. Another of my favorite's is the Eagle River Bottling Works
Walleye Filet (Yes, there really was an Eagle River Bottling Works); or, the
Bottling Works Basket (twin walleye filets with fries, an Atlanta side salad,
and petite hearth roll.
Not to mention the old-fashioned ice cream sodas & floats;
shakes & malts; phosphates; specialty sundaes and desserts, like cake n' ice
cream; turtle sundae, banana splits; and the Eagle River Water Tower, a really
big serving that makes me feel full just thinking about it!