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A Town Called Herring: Seldovia, AlaskaBy Naomi K. Shapiro
Bob had apparently done this hundreds of times, and was ready, adjusting to bring us down smoothly and gently on Seldovia's short, dirt airstrip. Seldovia is just 16 miles by air from Homer, Alaska -- but hundreds of miles from "reality" -- for those who love to experience fascinating, unique-to-themselves, communities.
Once we were airborne, I got busy looking down at the huge patches of kelp, and the bubbly trails of boats plying the gleaming waters below us.
Seldovia got its name in the mid-18th century from a Russian fisherman who called it "Herring Bay" ("Zaliv Seldevoy" in Russian). The Americans "transliterated" the name to "Seldovia," and, for a town whose name means "Herring Bay," Seldovia is a mighty sweet place.
You can get to Seldovia one of three ways: A short plane hop from Homer, as we did (or by private plane); a water taxi from Homer; or by private boat. After we landed, my three travel companions and I trekked about a mile on the paved road from the airport to town. On our right, fields of purple lupine framed the community of Seldovia in the distance; and snow-capped mountains in the far background made us feel that we were "explorers" about to discover something new and wonderful.
Ironically, the boys were right in front of the MadFish Restaurant, where we had scheduled lunch.
When we arrived, Kate was outside, tending her garden and flower boxes, clipping fresh herbs. At that moment, I knew we were in for a treat. And we were... The restaurant overlooks the panoramic views and tranquility of Seldovia Bay. Fresh Alaskan king salmon and Kachemak halibut were delivered daily by a long-time resident fishing family. The fish was then prepared and served with the chef's intriguing and defining sauces and herbs. Homemade desserts and fresh breads were all made on the premises. Guests also enjoyed the distinct flavors and tastes of Alaskan micro brewed beers. My choice was a totally scrumptious, fresh-grilled salmon steak served on fresh, softly-crusted bread, garnished by lettuce, tomatoes, and sprouts -- with a slightly piquant, home-made mango chutney that brought high flavor quotient to this combination -- without overpowering the food. When I asked about the various herbs used, Jim smiled and said, 'It's essence of MadFish." In other words: "Our special, mouth-watering secret." One of my dining companions ordered bow-tie pasta, which he said was great; but, if you're inclined to try the bounty of the local waters, the MadFish boasted grand salads and entrees made with Alaskan King salmon, Kachemak halibut, crab, and the like. So, although I've eaten at many top restaurants around the world, I never had a more wonderful lunch than this day in Seldovia.
After lunch, I planned to take the mapped-walking tour around town while the others went on a sea-kayak adventure, but, after I listened to the sea kayak preparation session and saw what fun, and how safe it would be, I signed up at Kirby Corwin's "Kayak 'Atak'" to go out on the water with everyone.
Kirby pointed out an abandoned herring and salmon factory on shore, other historic sites, and former Native settlements. The water was pristine and clear. As we paddled past a high, rocky outcrop, I peered down, and saw hundreds of shimmering, white jellyfish suspended in the water. And, even though I think I've watched nearly every National Geographic and Discovery Channel program, I wondered, "What are jellyfish doing in Seldovia, Alaska?" It took me a moment to realize that jellyfish are creatures of the Pacific Ocean... and, yep, we were in waters of the Pacific, albeit in Alaskan waters.
Back on shore, we spent a few minutes at the Herring Bay Mercantile store, with its offerings of snacks, coffee, gifts, and sundries to suit about every need of tourist or local alike. But it was time to catch our plane back to Homer. Kirby got his car (a special commodity on Seldovia) and gave us a ride back to the airstrip.
In any season, Seldovia makes a nifty visit from the Alaska mainland; or a unique getaway; or meeting site, for anyone from anywhere! As "Pilot Bob" skillfully lifted off, I had another special travel experience inside of me: A visit to "A Town Called Herring." Interesting Information On Seldovia
If you go: Seldovia has a thriving website, community newspaper, and tourist information treasure-trove all rolled into one. Seldovia's website is one of the best I have ever seen. Seldovia Chamber of Commerce: Kayak'Atak Alaskan Paddling Adventures: Alaska Visitor Information Kenai Peninsula Tourism Land's End Restaurant & Hotel: Land's End Resort Naomi K. Shapiro is a Wisconsin-based travel and outdoor writer |
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As our small plane came in for its landing at Seldovia,
Alaska, our pilot, Bob, muttered, and then held us suspended above the ground
for a moment as a gust of wind tried to push us sideways.
Twenty minutes earlier, five of us (including the pilot)
had climbed into the blue and white Cessna 206 turboprop in Homer. Like most
small-plane pilots, Bob washed his own windshield before we took off, put me
into the co-pilot's seat for the short hop (so I could "backseat fly"), and
jokingly referred to the ERA Airlines plane as his "half-ton Alaskan pickup."
Nestled in Kachemak Bay, 16 miles by air from the s. tip of
the Kenai Peninsula at Homer, and reachable only by air or water, the isolated
hamlet of Seldovia, (population: 300 people and untold numbers of fish), is on a
fjord extending off of pristine Kachemak Bay.
For hundreds of years -- prior to settlement by Russia and
then America -- Athabascan Indians, Aleuts and Inuits (Eskimos) camped at
Seldovia, flourishing on the abundant natural resources of the sea and
surrounding land. Today, the main population is Caucasians, and the main
business is seasonal tourism, although the year-round citizens of Seldovia keep
busy with a very full and active community life.
As we neared town, we saw many anglers fishing under the
bridge to town, and when we got to main street, we saw a couple of young boys
holding up a huge, freshly caught salmon. What a great scene!
The MadFish restaurant (which is now for sale) is owned by
transplanted upstate New Yorkers, Kate and Jim Fitzgerald. Kate was the Madfish
Executive Chef, and husband Jim attended to the dining room as host and server.
Kate and Jim said it wasn't easy to run a high-end
restaurant in a place like Seldovia. They ordered various items from Seattle or
Anchorage, getting deliveries once a week, and said weather was a constant
factor in non-deliveries of essentials.
Kirby literally took me under his wing, and put me into his
own two-person kayak. My companions, Joyce and Autumn, went in one kayak
together, and Stephen went by himself. In three kayaks, we moved out onto the
calm bay. Kirby did most of the paddling for our kayak, while I gawked, took
pictures, and had a delightful time.
The kayaking, just a short, get-acquainted outing, was over
too soon. On the way back to our launch site, we spotted a large sea otter, who
must have spotted us, and popped its head out of the water several times to have
a look.
Seldovia has a wonderful attitude and good humor about
itself, offering much to do that we didn't have time for on this brief daytrip.
Lots of hiking and biking trails. World-class fishing. Camping. Tours to the
interior. Kayaking. Boating. Wonderful local specialties, including fabulous
jams, preserves, jellies and foods made from delicious local berries; gifts,
souvenirs, and great cuisine. Excellent accommodations of all types and
prices. An area with a history of Native American culture and heritage,
timbering, fishing, etc. Self-guided walking tours around town. Wildlife and
nature. Parks. Community suppers; concerts; lectures; bingo, scrabble, and so
much more.)