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Mâori Art Meets AmericaTracing New Zealand’s Weaving Traditions to their Source As day dawns over the Golden Gate Bridge on August 4th, an unaccustomed sight will emerge from the early morning mist: a waka (ocean-going canoe), paddled by 18 young Mâori warriors and their revered elders, coming ashore at San Francisco Maritime National Historical Park. Here, as the city wakes, New Zealand’s first inhabitants led by Te Arikinui Dame Te Atairangikaahu - the Mâori Queen - will be greeted by the Ohlone tribe, San Francisco’s own first residents.
On hand for the dawn welcoming ceremony celebrating the ties between these two Pacific Rim peoples and the wider Pacific communities of which they are part will be San Francisco city officials, Bay Area residents and visitors drawn to this rare happening on the banks of the City by the Bay. More than a symbolic gesture of solidarity, the event will mark the official opening of “Toi Mâori: Art from the Mâori People of New Zealand” - a 10-day exhibit at the Yerba Buena Center for the Arts, August 5 – 15. Never before seen in the U.S., the centerpiece of the exhibit is a rare and priceless collection of intricately woven Mâori cloaks, the living remnant of an ancient tradition strongly preserved to this day by the Mâori people. The exhibit is graced by the cloaks of the country’s leading weavers, many of whom will personally showcase their work by offering commentary and guided tours during the show. In addition, moko (tattoo) artists will conduct demonstrations on young Mâori warriors, showing off the ancient body art that has traditionally stood as a testament of courage, integrity and standing of individual Mâori in their community. Visitors will learn to “read” the inter-laced patterns on cloaks that speak of a weaver’s whânau (family) and iwi (tribe). Nature - the ubiquitous muse for indigenous communities all over the world - is obvious in the use of design motifs inspired by flora and fauna found only in New Zealand.
Inspired by the exhibition to follow the eternal thread back to New Zealand where the tradition was born, Down Under Answers has designed a package that will allow travelers to trace Mâori history, culture, traditions and legends to their source. 14-day packages including car rental, accommodations, and activities are outlined in the itinerary on http://www.newzealand.com/
The loom for the Mâori art of weaving the eternal thread is Northland, the birthplace of the nation in the northernmost reaches of North Island. More than a third of Northland’s residents are of Mâori descent, and the landscape abounds in key cultural and historical sites, including the spot where the first Mâori stepped foot on New Zealand soil - a discovery that led to the historic migration and settlement of Mâori from distant parts of Polynesia. The base knot of this eternal cloak is Russell, a tiny fishing village that was New Zealand’s first capital, whose memorable coastal scenery unfolds itself on a half-day sail around the Bay of Islands. Weaving a tale as intricate as the cloaks themselves, a Mâori guide leads visitors into the depths of the Puketi forest, home to the legendary kauri trees - almost as gigantic and every bit as old (20 - 40 centuries) as California redwoods. Also to be found on the track of the eternal thread are ancient pa sites (fortified villages) and the waka (war canoe) trail, a long stretch reaching from west to east coast along which canoes were once carried. An hour’s flight away in Rotorua, traditional and contemporary Mâori life inter-twine. At Whakarewarewa Thermal Village, the local iwi (tribe) still make good use of the natural geothermal resources for cooking and bathing, as they have for hundreds of years. Spinning the yarn on its way is the Mâori Arts and Crafts Institute, where the refined skills of the ancient crafts are kept alive and vibrant. Finished crafts for sale are Toi Iho quality trademarked, a guarantee of authenticity. It takes a full day to explore geothermal Rotorua, in an eco-tour through Waiotapu, Waimangu Volcanic Valley culminating at the summit of Mt. Tarawera.
Spool onwards to the modern capital Wellington, also known as Te Upoko o Te Ika or “the head of a fish”. According to Mâori legend, the demi-god Maui pulled a large fish (North Island) to the surface while fishing from his canoe (South Island). Here, in the mouth of the fish, is the seat of government and the national museum Te Papa, featuring interactive exhibits on geological, ecological and historical New Zealand, as well as an active marae (Mâori meeting house) on the 4th floor. From Te Papa, knowledgeable guides from Flat Earth Tours continue to unravel the thread to Mâori Treasures, a working arts studio started by a master carver and a respected weaver, whose work is among those exhibiting in San Francisco. From “the head of the fish” to the “prow of the canoe of Maui,” Te Tau Ohu is the northern region of South Island where Nelson is located. Settled in the 1960s by hippies, the area is crafts central for more than 300 resident artists. Visit working studios, interact with artists and sample the fruit of the sauvignon blanc vine. A day at Abel Tasman National Park, the smallest of the nation’s 14 national parks, includes exploring inlets and coastlines with experienced guides, boating to the Tonga seal colony and hiking back to home base.
Complete the weave in Wanaka, an hour’s drive from Queenstown, with a visit to the “Big Picture,” a new wine tour showcasing a different grape: Central Otago’s pinot noir, or in classic Kiwi backcountry with a full day’s (moderately difficult) guided hike to the Rob Roy Glacier and Glacier Burn, traversing dramatic valleys, pastoral farmland, alpine meadows, waterfalls, rugged glacial peaks and moving glaciers. For more information on Washington-based Down Under Answers packages, visit duatravel.com/ or call toll-free 1-800-788-6685. For information about New Zealand’s many vacation options, log onto the 100% Pure New Zealand website at www.NewZealand.com, www.NewzZealand.com, or call 1-866-NEW ZEALAND (1-866-639-9325). For year-round travel deals to New Zealand, visit: www.newzealand.com For more on Maori Art, visit www.maoriart.org.nz/events/eternal_thread_sf Edited by Erika Wright Back to TravelLady Magazine |
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