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Going Native in Bali

Learn as you go!

By Sandra Scott

James Michener may have had Bali in mind when he penned, “If you reject the food, ignore the customs, fear the religion and avoid the people, you might better stay home.”

Bali is the epitome of every vacationer’s dream - beautiful beaches, emerald seas and a plethora of first class resorts. But to visit Bali without learning about the unique culture is to miss the essence of Bali.

Learning the culture doesn’t mean moving to Bali; in fact, it requires little effort, but the reward factor is high.  The opportunities to learn the culture are many and, in some cases, it isn’t even necessary to leave cocoon-like existence of the resort.

The Conrad Resort makes it easy to learn about Balinese dance.  As the warm afternoon breeze makes the white curtain of the bale whisper, the dance instructor swaddles 5-year old Mathilde and her parents in traditional Balinese dress explaining each article of clothing.  First the kamen (skirt) is wrapped tightly around forming a skirt, then sabuk prada (belt) wrapped tightly around the waist and then upward to form the bodice covering for Mathilde and her mother. The selendang is draped over the shoulder and finally, the bunda mas, the headpiece completes the outfit.

Then the dance lesson begins. First there is a little hand talk - learning how to say “Hello” with your hands. The music starts and awkwardly at first we try to mimic the soft gliding steps of the instructor. Her arms move as if fluttered by a gentle breeze. The clothing feels like a bandage wrapped too tight.  Slowly we relax, we begin to feel the rhythm of the gamelan, the Balinese orchestra made up of bamboo xylophones and gongs.

In the evening professional dancers do a modern interpretation of the traditional Balinese dances, and many movements are recognized from the lesson.

Most Balinese dances have a religious significance. Dance and drama have played an important role in Balinese culture through the years. It is through these theatrical performances that the islanders learned the tales from the Ramayana, Mahabarata and other epic stories from Balinese history.

Most resorts including Nusa Dua Resort and Le Meridian have specially constructed Balinese theaters and present Ramayana on a regular basis.  Ramayama, a Hindu story written in the 3rd or 4th century BC, is a classic romance. Rama, an incarnation of Vishnu is robbed by his father's second wife of his rightful position as heir to the throne of the kingdom and is banished to the forest. His beautiful and faithful wife, Sita, and his younger brother, Laksmana, accompany him. Trials, separations, and other tribulations ensue.  Fortunately, guests are provided with a synopsis of each scene so the story is easy to follow.  Again, dance movements are recognizable.

One of the very best ways to learn about a culture is through cooking.  The chances that you will dance Balinese style once you return home is slight.  But, you can always stir up memories of Bali by cooking a Balinese dish.

Bumbu Bali not only operates an excellent Balinese Restaurant but it also offers regular classes in Balinese cooking.  The day starts with a trip to the market to learn about the different vegetables and fruits and to get the freshest catch of the day.  Back at Rumah Bali, the Balinese Village, the preparation continues.

Learning to cook Balinese food is to learn about the culture.  Since most of the Balinese are Hindus whereby food offerings are presented to God, all phases of of food from sowing to eating are actions that are related to God.  Eating is not a social activity.  People eat when they are hungry and usually alone.

Another day at the Conrad guests learn the art of Balinese flower arranging and the knowledge Balinese culture grows.  The small palm frond basket filled with flowers seen in front of the shops, by trees, and in so many places now take on a new meaning as guests learn how to make them and their purpose - offerings to the Hindu god.

Ask the staff at any hotel to teach you a word or two each day.  Start with “hello,” “thank you,” and “you are welcome.” They will be thrilled you are taking an interest in their ways.  Everyday it is a new experience, a slow but steady way to learn of the culture.  You are ready for a more intensive Balinese learning experience. 

At La Meridian Resort it is only a few steps to Tanah Lot sea temple, suspended on a huge rock offshore. If hearsay is to be believed, there dwells inside one of the shrines a huge snake, discreetly left undisturbed by the Balinese. Built in the 15th century, it is one of the most holy Balinese temples. Luckily the ceremonies are frequent. Just dress modestly and join the throng of people making their way to the water’s edge. You can join in the prayers and continue onto the island, which is accessible for a short time during low tide. Or just sit on one of the rocks and absorb the ambiance of the ceremony. Sunset is the best time to visit, when the golden and red sky frames the temple and the waves crash into the rocks.

Bali will entrance you but learning about the culture will make you make you feel as one with the Balinese.  You may leave Bali, but Bali will stay in your memory – the whisper of the dance movements, the colorful stories, the smells of the food, and the learning will make you understand and appreciate the uniqueness of all cultures.

If you go:
Bali Hilton: www.balihilton.com
Conrad: http://bali.conradmeetings.com
Nusa Dua Resort: www.nusaduahotel.com
Le Meridian: www.lemeridien.com/indonesia/bali
Bumbu Bali cooking school: www.balifoods.com/
For more information check: www.balidiscovery.com

Images by Sandra Scott

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