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Overlooked wines from Italy's Piedmont

By Darryl Beeson

In northwestern Italy is the region of Piedmont, home to some of the world's biggest and best known reds. Barola and Barbaresco are made from the Nebbiolo grape. Each is grown in unique soil and terrain. The climates are contrasting. The city of Alba is the center of this great wine making tradition.

Barolo comes from the five major communes southwest of Alba, being larger in structure has more powerful tannins. This is a steep, hilly area. The wine must be aged two years in the barrel and one in the bottle in order to soften things a bit. The collector or restaurant owner should be prepared to age this gripping red even further.

Barbaresco is from a smaller area northeast of the Alba. The climate is warmer and drier. The grapes ripen sooner, the result being a less tannic wine, making Barbaresco a more user friendly wine.

In addition to the noble Nebbiolo grape, growers in the Piedmont also plant the sometimes overlooked Barbera and Dolcetto. The Barbera grape results in a rich red wine, with a generous black-cherry character. This red makes for relaxed, more fun, wine drinking. Pair Barbera with lighter, fun foods.

Dolcetto is a lighter-bodied red and is similar to Pinot Noir in regards to food pairings. Though dry, it can be rather fruity, but less so than say a Beaujolais.

Pio Cesare Nebbiolo d'Alba, Piedmont 2000
Price $35
Rating 92
Pio Cesare is one of the most respected wine producers of the noble Piedmont. The nose offers complex floral, countered by earthy mineral. Think of violet or roses, tar or earthy truffle. These reds can be very tannic and require time to fully age. From the start, there will be a brown hint to this red wine. This wine is imported to the U.S. by Paterno.

La Morandina Barbera d'Asti, Piemonte 2004
Price $17
Rating 89
The flavors are intriguing and with ripe fruit. The sip refreshes and intrigues. The estate, since its establishment at the beginning of the XIXth Century, has always belonged to the Morando family. Even today, after many renovations, part of the cellar is still of the initial period. The aim of the producer is to improve quality by utilizing modern technology and by respecting the production area characteristics at the same time. Learn more at www.marcdegrazia.com .

La Morandina Barbera d'Alba "Zuccheto" Piemonte 2004
Price $25
Rating 92
The nose is fine, ethereal with wild berries and cherry. Flavors are warm, soft, round, full-bodied, fresh, being slightly tannic. The producer suggests serving this wine with red meat or medium aged cheeses

La Morandina Piemonte Vino da Tavola "L'Insieme" 2001
Price $35
Rating 94
The blend is Syrah, Nebbiolo and Barbera. The sip explodes with a grpping array of fruits, leather and mineral with a touch of black pepper in the very long length.

Boschis Dolcetto Di Dogliani "Pianezzo" Piemonte 2004
Price $18
Rating 88
This is what the producer terms an Autumn wine. It is lighter and refreshing. A touch of "bret" in the wine gives the delicate fruit flavors a degree of gaminess.

The estate started making and bottling wine in 1968, while previously grapes were sold to other producers in the area. Dolcetto is the main varietal, 80%, with the crus "Vigna Sorì S. Martino" and "Vigna dei Prey", although small vineyards of Barbera and other Piedmont varietals were planted. Learn more at www.marcdegrazia.com .

Boschis Barbera d'Alba "Masserie" Piemonte 2001
Price $27
Rating 91
The nose is rich with grapey fruit aromas. The sip is lean with black cherry and black earth with a hint of menthol.

Boschis Barbera d'Alba "Masserie" Piemonte 2003
Price $26
Rating 93
The nose is big with fresh with grapey aromas. The sip exudes mulberry and bright grape soda in a long, complex stay on the palate.

Cavallotto Barbera d'Alba "Vigna Cuculo" Piemonte 2001
Price $26
Rating 95
The powerful sip exudes mulberry, candied orange, black cherry, black berry in a long, complex stay on the palate. This red is a "velvet hammer" of sorts.

The Cavallottos have been "vignerons" for 5 generations, in 1948, the family was the first to stop selling grapes to other producers and to start making its own wine. Alfio and Giuseppe, both oenologists, succesfully continue this tradition producing high quality DOC and DOCG wines. Learn more at www.marcdegrazia.com.

Moccagatta Barbera d'Alba, Piemonte 2003
Price $24
Rating 93
The sip reveals flavors of black cherry, cola, menthol, anise, earthy tar and much more. The length is long, subtle and complex on the palate.

The "Azienda Agricola Moccagatta" is named after the area where it is located. It was established in 1952 by Mario Minuto, father of the present owners. The total surface is of 15 hectares, 12 of which are grown with vineyards. Learn more at www.marcdegrazia.com.

Darryl Beeson travels the world looking for great wine values. In the past, he has been wine steward or cellar master for The Mansion on Turtle Creek, Voltaire, and The Adolphus Hotel. Not one for stuffiness or secret handshakes relative to wine, this Texan might now be described as a "ki-yi-yippee sommelier, sommelier." Beeson reports on wine, spirits, food and travel for numerous publications.

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