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Wines for the final heat of summer

By Darryl Beeson

Heat requires fresh, light wine to reply. Don't compromise complexity. The following succeed. Sip, and enjoy.

Red Bicyclette "French Rose" 2004
Price $8.99
Rating 88
Crisp, dry and refreshing, this rose is very flavorful. There are notes of lime and kiwi in the long finish. This pink wine is in no way wimpy. This crisp wine relates in no way to the other pink- White Zinfandel. Match this soft, hot weather wine with cold cuts, hard cheeses, egg dishes such as quiche, or cold grilled chicken with herbs. Squeeze a little lime on the food or garnish with a wedge of ripe mango. Pink in a blink.

McWilliam's Hanwood Riesling, South Eastern Australia
Price $11
Rating 89
Crisp flavors of lime and soft mineral. Australian Rieslings are another story. They are crisp, like a lime-based Margarita, unlike the German version of the same grape. Very dry, and very crisp. Perfect with many food choices. Since 1877, when Samuel McWilliam planted his first vines at Corowa in New South Wales, successive generations of the McWilliam family have been pioneering the art of fine winemaking in Australia.

Coastal Ridge Gewurztraminer, California 2004
Price $7
Rating 84
Off dry, but not overly sweet, there are spicy flavors of tropical fruit and nuts. This white is simple and very refreshing. The simple spice in the sip merges into fresh wine enjoyment. Try this with spicy Asian cuisine. In fact, pair this white with most any Pacific-rim dish, don't worry about the heat or the assertive nature of the cuisine. Gewurtz works.

Goulaine Vouvray, Loire 2002
Price $9.99
Rating 90
There are bold, complex flavors of tropical fruit, stone fruit, pear and crisp lemon. The wine possesses an intense floral nose with honey and tangerine aromas. The sip succeeds with peach and a hint of almond on the lingering finish. The Château de Goulaine, family owned and operated for over 1,000 years, is currently under the direction of Robert Goulaine, the 11th Maquis de Goulaine. He sources the Chenin Blanc for this Vouvray from ten small growers within the appellation, who then vinify under his close direction.

Dry Creek Dry Chenin Blanc, Clarksburg 2004
Price $10
Rating 89
Lots of citrus in the nose. The sip offers crisp apple, herbacious elements and mineral in the long length. Dry Creek Vineyard was the first new winery to be established in the Dry Creek Valley since the days of Prohibition. When David Stare arrived there in 1972, this grape-growing region of Sonoma County was a case study in neglect. Plainly, the Dry Creek Valley's glory days of winemaking were a thing of the past.

Dry Creek Vineyard owes its inspiration to the Loire Valley. Traveling through the vineyards of France, Stare was beguiled by the classic wines of the region...the charming wines of Vouvray (made from the Chenin Blanc grape). "Served chilled, it’s excellent as both an aperitif or food wine, notably with oysters, summer salad, or Asian inspired cuisine," suggests the winery. More details are at www.drycreekvineyard.com .

Turnbull Wine Cellars Viognier, Napa 2004
Price $30
Rating 92
The nose is classic with peach blossom and complex mineral. The sip is oily with ripe melon, crisp citrus on the edge, pear and white fruit in the long finish. Pair with lusty grilled salmon or pasta in an olive oil and capers sauce, with meat or without. This is a special white wine for more special occasions. Additional information can be found at www.turnbullwines.com.

Turnbull Wine Cellars Sauvignon Blanc, Napa 2003
Price $15
Rating 88
Herbacious aromas are followed by flavors of soft melon, citrus and complex mineral in the long length. The exact blend is 97% Sauvignon Blanc (67% Musque) and 3% fragrant Viognier. In the spring of 1993, Patrick O’Dell purchased the winery named Johnson Turnbull Vineyards and renamed the property Turnbull Wine Cellars. At this time the image of the turning bull on the label was redesigned. The newer image is derived from a bull’s figure on a Minoan drinking vessel. The crest continues to be embossed on each label, reflecting our respect for the history of the distinguished Turnbull name. Check out www.turnbullwines.com.

St. Supery Sauvignon Blanc, Napa 2004
Price $19
Rating 91
The crisp nose showcases grapefruit and delicate herbs. The powerful sip is full of grapefruit, citrus and ripe melon. "The 2004 Sauvignon Blanc is a crisp and fragrant wine, with bright tangy ruby grapefruit, sweet lime, gooseberry and just a hint of orange blossom. There is tremendous depth and dimension on the palate with loads of grapefruit, passion fruit and guava. This is a racy wine that finishes long and clean," says the winery. Learn more at www.stsupery.com.

Pine Ridge Chenin Blanc-Viognier, Clarksburg 2004
Price $13.50
Rating 89
The blend is 80% Chenin Blanc and 20% Viognier. The nose leads with fresh apple. It is crisp and complex. The sip is concentrated with luscious apple and tree fruit. The usual peach blossom from the Viognier is in hiding. Not a huge production, look for this hite wine none-the-less. Find out more at www.pineridgewinery.com.

Trefethen Dry Riesling, Napa 2004
Price $18
Rating 90
The nose has green apple, limestone and lime. The crisp sip is round with lime and tart tree fruit. "Enticing aromas of jasmine are first to greet the nose, followed by an alluring citrus perfume," says Janet Trefethen. "The sweet scent draws you in, but the palate is wonderfully crisp, dry and refreshing. The flavors of citrus, floral and spice complement the bright acidity into a beautiful finish that is consistent year after year in this rare Napa Valley dry Riesling." Janet should know; She has the best legs in Napa. More details are at www.trefethen.com.

Sebastiani Barbera, Sonoma 2003
Price $17
Rating 91
This soft, velvety red wine is a little more limited in distribution than some other wines. Consult the website, below, for more information about availability. The color is dark. The nose leads with deep aromas of ripe plum, with raspberries and spice. The sip is packed with red fruit, mocha and vanilla spice.

The history of Sebastiani Vineyards dates back to 1825. In that year, the Franciscan fathers of nearby mission San Francisco Solano, assisted by local native Americans, first cleared and planted land for their vineyards. These vineyards are among the oldest vineyard sites in northern California. They were acquired in 1904 by Samuele Sebastiani, the founder of the family winery, who immigrated from the wine producing region of Tuscany, Italy in 1895. More to know is at www.sebastiani.com.

Darryl Beeson travels the world looking for great wine values. In the past, he has been wine steward or cellar master for The Mansion on Turtle Creek, Voltaire, and The Adolphus Hotel. Not one for stuffiness or secret handshakes relative to wine, this Texan might now be described as a "ki-yi-yippee sommelier, sommelier." Beeson reports on wine, spirits, food and travel for numerous publications.

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