|
South America: A Premium PassageBy Suna Kanga
WELKOM AAN BOORD!
Holland America is part of the World Leading Cruise Lines family, along with Carnival, Windstar, Seabourn, Cunard and Costa. The 720-foot long ship of ten decks featured spacious staterooms, most with balconies, and grand public rooms decorated with an art collection costing US $2 million. Guests in the penthouse and 28 verandah suites were welcomed with a special tea service as valets unpacked their bags. Our cheerfully appointed stateroom, with beds converted to
queen size, miraculously had space for all our belongings. Twice a day, a
friendly Indonesian steward freshened up the room and replaced towels.
“For us, every day is interesting,” observed the affable
hotel manager. “Our guests get to travel the world in a protected, nurtured
environment with people who speak the same language.
Sprightly Col. James W. Reid, a veteran of 209 lecture
cruises for Holland America, made our cruise especially meaningful.
THE ROUTEMontevideo, Uruguay Our first stop was Montevideo, Uruguay,
one of the continent’s smallest countries.
Buenos Aires, Argentina Two nights in Buenos Aires revealed
a city of superb architecture, magnificent parks and a friendly people poorly
served by their leaders. We visited Plaza de Mayo where mothers of men who
vanished in the Dirty War of the 1970s gather for years to protest, Casa Rosada,
the Presidential Palace, and Colon Theatre, a world famous opera house.
Cape Horn, Chile Anticipation ran high as the Captain set
course for Cape Horn. At first, dark clouds threatened but soon Isla Hornos
(Horn Island) revealed itself, a dark, crouching lion with foamy suppliants at
its feet. “I can’t believe I’m here!” said a traveller swathed in blankets.
“Cape Horn is a revered point of the world -- and to mariners an intimidating
point,” announced port lecturer Graham Sunderland, noting that the Cape was
1,300 miles south of Africa’s Cape of Good Hope. Ushuaia, Argentina Lights sprinkled along a hillside gave
an indication of Ushuaia’s modest size. Dawn showed off the settlement’s
brilliant colours. Before 1947, it was a different story. The snowy mountains
had witnessed a dark era when this was a penal colony. To build their prison,
convicts first had to lay a train track under formidable, wintry conditions.
Chilean fjords Southern Chile, the “land at the bottom of
the world,” is a showpiece of natural architecture. The Beagle Channel, which
cuts through an archipelago of thousands of small islands and untouched
mountains,
Puerto Montt, Chile Sailing up the west coast of Chile, we
arrived at Puerto Montt, gateway to the Lake District and salmon region.
Skipping the ship’s tour, we joined another couple on a tour with a spunky girl
in a dusty red car -- after checking the spare tyre!
Cruising today is more than luxury, lavish food, happy
company and pampering.
For further information: www.hollandamerica.com. Copyright Suna Kanga |
|
TM
Clinking
glasses with dining companions on our first night on board the ms Ryndam, I
applauded our decision to set our sights on a distant land. South America, we
felt, would be an extraordinary destination to mark a special anniversary.
Having stayed afloat in the matrimonial sea, what better way to celebrate than
to chart new waters in style?
For
most of us, few places in the world seemed farther than South America, a land of
ancient culture, scenic grandeur and spirited people. For early explorers
Magellan, Drake and Darwin, who set the course for today’s travellers, sailing
conditions were different, to say the least. Today, exploration from a cruise
ship is an adventure fine-tuned for those with a zest for discovery. Holland
America’s 17-day cruise, from Brazil to Chile via Cape Horn, offered us a
perfect introduction.
South
America was an eye opener from start. With touchdown -- after Varig’s 13-hour
flight from New York -- came our first surprise. Rio de Janeiro was an
unexpectedly beautiful city of rolling hills and beaches despite its sad favelas
(shanty towns). Pre-cruise pampering at the stately Copacabana Palace Hotel set
the mood. The grand dame’s regal, white elegance fanned by colourful flags was
complemented by immaculate, personalized service. Rio’s outstanding sights began
with a look at mesmeric Copacabana Beach from our balcony. Later, between
breathtaking views from Sugar Loaf Mountain and the famous statue of Christ on
Corcovado Mountain, Rio had plenty to offer. 
Smart
and sophisticated, ms Ryndam embarked with 1,150 passengers and 500 staff on
Valentine’s Day. Rio’s coastline faded as we started kruisen (cruising). The
Dutch word meaning ‘to cross’ referred to the zigzag sailing pattern of pirate
ships on a hunt, a term adopted by boaters on pleasure voyages. The Captain
informed us that the total distance of 4,798 nautical miles would be covered in
17 days at an average speed of 18 knots. En route we would learn about the
gauchos of Uruguay, experience the passion of tango in Argentina,
visit
penguins on barren Falkland Islands, touch Cape Horn and glimpse the austere
beauty of the Chilean glaciers. 
A
daily programme lured passengers to lectures, movies, library, shop and salon
offers, glittering casino, nightly shows and innumerable bars and lounges. The
five formal nights maintained the glamorous traditions of cruising. Dining room
menus were elaborate and graciously served on Rosenthal china by courteous
staff.
Sometimes,
we have to change plans and face situations caused by the elements. The more
challenging guests are not those in the suites. Guests in our suites are well-travelled,
they know what to expect, have style and for the vast majority are very pleasant
and understanding. They expect a certain level of service and are not fussy.
Ninety percent of them are repeat guests,” he says. Suite services include
private jacuzzis, fluffy robes, free laundry, cocktail receptions, VIP parties
and a concierge dedicated to their needs. Lunch was offered at the exclusive
Pinnacle Grill, a fine dining restaurant serving superb three-course meals,
(open to other guests at a small charge).
The
author-lecturer’s succinct presentations, supported by slides and music, offered
an invaluable insight into the history and current situation at each port. An
amazing man who speaks seven languages, he was military attaché in Argentina and
Bolivia. “South America is a continent in a flux. The military regimes are
winding down. The ports are very interesting and each one is different. I am
particularly fond of the South American cruises,” said Reid. Passengers who did
not attend lectures played bridge, learned ballroom dancing, visited the spa and
Internet C@fe, a good service between ports where cybercafes were innumerable.
Long
considered the most “European” of South American countries, its people are of
Spanish and Italian origin. Leather specialists Casa Mario provided a shuttle
service to their store in the Old Town, where the German battleship, Graf Spee,
had been held during World War II. The city has spacious squares, elegant
architecture and a fascinating Gaucho Museum dedicated to its rugged, revered
heroes. A tour was offered to South America’s high profile seaside resort, Punta
del Este, site of world-renowned film festivals, car races, tennis and golf
tournaments and gambling at casinos. 
Lively
La Boca, historic San Telmo where tango originated and fashionable Recoleta were
interesting districts. Recoleta Cemetery, where Eva Peron is buried, has
magnificent mausoleums designed by famous artists. At a traditional tango show
house, El Viejo Almacen, four svelte dancers and their partners with dark,
greased hair thrilled us with graceful gliding and elaborate leg swinging as
musicians stamped their feet to the rhythm. Despite problems, locals enjoyed a
sophisticated culture and a vibrant nightlife. 
Port
Stanley, Falkland Islands Uncertain weather delayed our arrival at Stanley,
capital of the Falkland Islands. The windy, remote islands were the scene of
many battles, the last in 1982 when Argentina lost control to Britain. Bright
colours breathed life into the treeless terrain, ideal for sheep farming. Paint,
first used to protect timber homes, is a much-loved form of decoration. The
islands, visited by Charles Darwin in 1833, have a population of 3,000 residents
and a strong military presence.
We
visited the quaint Victorian Christ Church Cathedral (1892) which has a tall
whalebone arch monument, strolled through tranquil streets and shopped for wool
sweaters and penguin toys. “There is a good sense of community here. We go to
the U.K. to study but we come back as this is home,” said a friendly local. The
remote islands are a great place to see penguins of many species. 
Three
oceans -- Pacific, Atlantic and Southern -- met at this treacherous point.
Sophisticated gadgetry tamed the turbulence as the master navigated the huge
ship through the Beagle Channel to Ushuaia. 
Our
tour on the convicts’ train recreated the sad but beautiful journey through a
gorgeous landscape of wildflowers and Upland geese. Ushuaia, where “End of the
World” certificates were offered, leads to the Tierra del Fuego (Land of Fire),
a remote 155,000-acre parkland of unique beauty that extends into Chile. 
was
said to be “mother nature’s last and best work.” While fjords of Alaska and
Norway were legendary, the stunning Chilean fjords crept upon us with great
surprise. Shivers of excitement ran through the windy deck as we passed the
magical rivers of ice, glaciers Italia, Francia, Alemania and Romanche, two
crystalline blue, another wrapped around a boulder and yet another sprouting a
waterfall. At the Crow’s Nest, live music and cocktails added warmth to the
privileged scene.
Punta
Arenas, Chile City lights studded the darkness as the ship manoeuvred into
Puntas Arenas on famous Strait of Magellan. A flourishing town during the
California Gold Rush and once a centre for wool exports, it now attracts
Antarctic research ships and fishing fleets. Several passengers had booked a
six-hour flight-tour to Antarctica for views of the world’s last wilderness.
Puntas Arenas’ glorious belle époque period was reflected in the sumptuously
decorated European-style Sarah Braun mansion and Casa Braun-Menendez we visited.
Later,
we sought out the famous statue of the Selk’nam Indian and touched his toe to
ensure our return to Chile. Back on board, it was time for a round of ritual
restoration with smoked salmon sandwiches and cinnamon ice cream at ‘templo
Lido’. 
Caro, a teacher and mother of three, whirled us past sheep farms, settled by
German immigrants in the 19th century, and the gorgeous holiday region around
Puerto Varas on Lake Llanquihue which touches Argentina. Continuing past
oxen-plowed fields and clapboard barns, we arrived at the gleaming, green rapids
of Petrohue Falls against the backdrop of snowy Osorno volcano. 
The
region has several bungalow-style restaurants where a specialty was curanto, a
Chilean stew of shell fish and vegetables, said to titillate the senses. “My
husband teases me when I cook curanto,” she said, rolling her eyes. A helicopter
was parked outside Bella Vista restaurant where onse or high tea, a spread of
pastries, pates and sausages, was popular. For a vantage view of the lake, she
took a dirt track and we were lost! Wrapped in silence, we have visions of
missing the boat but were soon back on track with ample time to shop at the
crafts market before the ms Ryndam heaved anchor and set course for the final
port Valparaiso, gateway to Santiago, capital of Chile. 
Increasingly,
cruising is a meeting of minds through one of life’s greatest pleasures. As the
former chairman and chief executive officer Mr A. K. Lanterman of Holland America had
observed, “…bringing one’s mind into contact with those of people of other
nations and continents is invaluable in enhancing civilized relations.
Understanding a nation’s gestalt – what makes it what it is, and what
distinguishes it – is a vital part of this process.” We had touched unknown
destinations, seen the constellations and stars in different positions, learned
something new each day and imbibed the vibes of cruise addiction.
But
there are several missing pieces in our world puzzle and more bridges of
understanding to build. There is so much world to ‘sea.’ -- Photographs by Suna
and Rusi Kanga