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Madeira, The Island of Sad CowsBy Richard FrisbieCaptain Zarco Discovers Madeira in 1420
The Islands of MacaronesiaThe North Atlantic islands of the Azores, the Canary
Islands, and the Madeira Archipelago are together known as Macaronesia. Widely
separated from each other and the mainland, these islands provide a refuge for
many species of flora and fauna which have long since disappeared from Europe.
The Ancient Laurel Forest of MadeiraThe Laurissilva forest once dominated the European landscape from the Paleocene through to the Pliocene epoch. About 10,000 years ago, after the Tertiary Period ended, the last glaciers helped to reduce the temperatures and put an end to the lush subtropical environment the forest needed to survive. Only the moderating effect of the Atlantic Ocean on the islands of Macaronesia allowed the Laurissilva to survive there. The Madeira forest is biodiverse, besides sharing many species with other laurissilva forests in Macaronesia, it also hosts 66 known species of plants which are entirely endemic to Madeira, including the rare orchid Goodyera Macrophylla. This unique natural region is managed and controlled by the Madeira Nature Park, and is designated a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. The Islands of the Madeira ArchipelagoThe Madeira Archipelago itself is made up of two inhabited islands, Porto Santo and Madeira, and several uninhabited islands called the .Desertas and Selvagens. Porto Santo is a short flight, or a 2.5 hour choppy ferry ride from Madeira. It is Madeira’s opposite in that it is less rugged, and has over 6 miles of sandy beaches. Porto Santo is also where Christopher Columbus married and had a home. Local lore even has him beginning his voyage of discovery from here. The Archipelago was the first of Portugal’s acquisitions in the golden age of Exploration which went on to include islands in the Caribbean and the vast country of Brazil. Today, Portugal is no longer in the pantheon of world powers, but it still has Madeira and Porto Santo as one of the premier vacation destinations of Northern Europe. Madeira Is The Island Of Sad Cows.Modern Madeira has many highways and tunnels through the
mountains to access the once remote interior. Prior to the mid 1900s there were
few roads into the isolated valleys, only steep donkey trails over the ridges.
This caused even nearby destinations to be a long and difficult journey. The
limited contact among neighboring valleys and coastal towns created
self-sufficient communities.
In addition, livestock such as rabbits, sheep, goats, chickens and cows could be kept to provide protein in the form of eggs, meats and cheeses. Where there is no level land there is no pasture, so the cows were always stabled on the steep slopes near where they were the most useful. While driving the winding interior roads you’ll spot sometimes one, sometimes several picturesque little white palheiros, or “cow houses”, isolated high on the farm’s green poios. Normally each square palheiro was used for one cow only, with the agriculture tools and the hay stored above the cow stall. The farmers built them so the cows would not stray, saving them from injury on the steep hillsides. Inside, scarcely seeing the light of day, the incarcerated cows spend their entire lives providing milk for butter and cheese, and manure for fertilizing the crops, without ever fulfilling their gregarious nature. Hence, Madeira is the island of sad cows. Santana’s Thatched A-Frame Houses
A Floating Paradise of Lush Gardens
The Legendary Levadas of Madeira
A Replica of Columbus’ Santa MariaFunchal harbor is home to a
full-scale replica of Columbus' largest ship, the Santa Maria. It is a three-masted
72 ft long mahogany ship that can carry up to 100 guests on a sight-seeing tour
of the Madeira coastline.
Activities On And Under The Water
The Street Toboggans of Monte
Various Accommodations And LodgingsThe range of accommodations is as varied as you could expect in one of Northern Europe’s favorite vacation spots. B&Bs, boutique inns and hotels are widely available, as are the oceanfront spa resorts. After touring Funchal, and visiting several four & five star hotels, here is a description of the top choices.
Both the Crown Plaza, and the Hotel Porto Mare are strong possibilities. They are walking distance to the cobblestone streets of old Funchal, with clubs and shops nearby, and both have access to the ocean. You could stay at either one, or the last hotel on that street - the Hotel Tivoli Ocean Park. All three are equally great, with big pools, spas, restaurants, ocean views, and all are close to the action. Compare the rates on their websites - and their specials - before you decide. Food Specialties Of MadeiraInstead of a tour of all the restaurants, here is a description of the local food in a typical five course meal, with a list of the restaurants at the end. All of the previewed hotels had good restaurants, but for the best local color and ingredients you can’t beat eating where the natives do.
The soup course could be a tomato soup called ‘sopa de tomate e cebola', which is crowned with a poached egg. It isn’t thickened with cream or butter, just loaded with caramelized onions and chopped tomatoes simmered to perfection in broth. The uncooked yolk thickens it nicely, and the red and yellow swirls formed when it is stirred are a dramatic color combination. The soup is pretty and good tasting! The crusty, toasted garlic bread served with it, called ‘bolo do caco’ almost makes it a meal in itself.
The meat course can be any kind of grilled or stewed beef,
lamb, pork, chicken, rabbit or goat. You’ll be lucky to find goat on any menu,
but a skewered mixed grill is a common entree. For the best local flavor you
should order 'espetada' at least once. It is made of large chunks of beef rubbed
in garlic and salt, skewered on a laurel stick and left to grill/smoke over wood
chips. The laurel skewer contributes a unique “bay” taste that identifies this
as typically Madeiran, and is often available at street fairs and festivals.
Madeirans have a sizable sweet tooth, so dessert is an event. There are endless progressions of pastries and sweets served at meal’s end. They all look and taste great, often with a decidedly molasses flavor, but if you prefer something lighter, ice cream is always offered. Most unusual flavor - Madeira! And while we’re talking about this sweet sherry that is the most famous product of the island, be warned, it is everywhere. A small glass of Madeira was served to me at 9:30 in the morning, and routinely throughout the day. Any hint of a social occasion, from an introduction to a meal, is a reason to imbibe. I’m not a sherry drinker, but by week’s end I found myself actually enjoying Madeira whenever it was served. The other local drink is ‘poncha’, which can be served cold or hot. It is a mixed drink of a potent white alcohol made from distilled sugar cane called ‘aguardente’, mixed with sugar cane honey called ‘mel de cana’, and fresh lemons, all mulled and strained. (Think ‘old fashioned’ or “whiskey sour’.) It is a very fortifying concoction, best consumed after an evening meal, or on a rainy winter afternoon. Food For The Soul
In my distant, lapsed catholic past I was once given a St. Michael medal instead of the traditional St. Christopher. The Bishop reasoned I didn’t need something as passive as the protection St. Christopher offered - I needed the fighter, St. Michael, at my side. That priest came closer to seeing into my soul than most, but he couldn’t keep me in the church. I still carry the medal, though, and think of him fondly as I struggle to achieve some purity in my troubled life.
A church is a good place for an epiphany. I realized that Madeira’s friendly citizens, lush gardens and incredible climate are probably the closest to heaven I will ever be. For now, that is enough. WHEN YOU GOHOTELS RESTAURANTS TOURISM WATER SPORTS All others by the author. |
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Imagine the courage of the first sailor to chart a course
to a distant cloud on the horizon when so many still thought the world was flat.
Did he wonder, “Is that the mist from the sea pouring off the edge of the world,
or a new land to claim for my king?” Such was the view from Porto Santo, itself
only discovered 2 years earlier, when Captain Joao Goncalves Zarco risked death
to learn the truth, and in 1420 Portugal gained Madeira.
Madeira, which means wood in Portuguese, is a
35 mile wide cloud-wreathed isle just two hours by air from Lisbon. It is
volcanic in origin, with the dormant Pico Ruivo the highest peak at 6105 ft. There are a wide variety of plant zones and
ecosystems, alpine to subtropical, running down the mountainous slopes to the
ocean. These host an incredibly diverse selection of native and imported
flowering plants.
In addition, nearly one fifth of Medeira’s surface (55,000
acres) is covered by the largest remnant of the primeval laurel forest that once
spread over Southern Europe. These descendants of ancient trees are draped in
moss and lichens in the cloudy heights of the Laurissilva Forest.
The valley farms evolved into engineering marvels
of terraces, or poios, stacked up the rugged slopes, with tier after tier of
arable land, literally every available inch, utilized to provide the needs of
each family. With an average temperature of 68 degrees, crops could be grown
year-round. Farmers supplemented their primary crops of fruits and grapes with
potatoes and other vegetables.
Not to be confused with the cow houses, these simple
triangular homes represent the efficient nature of the early Madeiran farmers.
The first floor was used for family shelter
from the weather, with a loft above for sleeping. The mild climate allowed for
everything else to be done outside. Today, only about 150 of the white stucco
and thatched-roof houses remain, primarily in the town of Santana. Their doors,
windows and shutters are painted in primary colors, reflecting the shades of the
surrounding gardens.
The mild Madeiran climate allows plants from all over the
world to thrive. Roadside plantings, village squares, private yards and many
lush public gardens are testament to the plant diversity on the island. The best
overview of all these is literally high over Funchal, on the gondola ride to the
hilltop above the city. It starts from the waterfront, and goes up between the
ridges to the suburb of Monte, offering a panoramic view of the city and harbor,
and a unique look into the gardens of the houses below.
Steps from the top is the entrance to the Jardim
do Monte, which spills and winds halfway down the neighboring valley. The cable
cars replaced the funicular (closed in the 1930s) which used to run up this
valley to transport cruise passengers to the top. Now
there is a planting of three ancient olive trees at the crest of a
Japanese-style garden whose features are overflowing with lush tropical plants.
Toward the bottom there is a small lake with waterfalls, and decks looking out
over the city.
At Quinta do Bom Sucesso, just a short distance from
Funchal, is another garden not to be missed. The
colorful knot gardens and sculpted plants are the highlights of the Jardim
Botanico, but the extensive collection of native plants and trees, and the
incredible selection of camellias, azaleas and orchids are the pride of
Madeirans everywhere.
Speaking of orchids, at Pregetter’s
Orchid Garden there are more orchids in one location than anywhere else in
Madeira. Hundreds, perhaps thousands of varieties of flowering plants, some
potted and some growing naturally, are packed into this colorful corner. A visit
to their laboratory reveals the secrets of plant propagation under blue lights,
and the reason the collection is so diverse.
Everywhere one looks in Madeira there are wild plants
rivaling any perennial border, with private gardens spilling out over walls and
fences, and public plantings holding the most diverse collection of plants
imaginable. Madeira truly earns the historic moniker of ‘Floating Paradise’. 
To fully experience
Madeira one must walk through the Laurissilva, and follow the narrow canals,
called levadas, that channel the much-needed mountain water to irrigate the
crops in the poios and plantations below. There are over 1500 miles of
these mini-canals, some dating back to the early 16th century. On one of the most popular levada walks, beginning at
Victor’s Restaurant, the 8 mile path starts wide and inviting as an old carriage
road. There is plenty of time to enjoy the trees, and the views through them
over the valleys below, before it curves sinuously through a tunnel, and,
narrowing at the exit, becomes a foot-wide path hanging off a cliff. This is
rated as a “moderate” hike, and the thin, but sturdy wire railing here keeps
people from falling to the treetops below. 
This
hike was supposed to be the highlight of my trip. Unfortunately, my hiking companion neglected to
tell me she suffers from vertigo, claustrophobia, and has a constant fear of
getting lost. There were several times that she literally “froze” in place, and
I had to crawl around her to help her through a difficult section. Then when a
dog started chasing us she just stood and screamed, later admitting to a
pathological fear of dogs! Every turn brought a new phobia, and a new challenge
for me to overcome.
The worst time we had was probably in the longest, blackest
tunnel. That’s when I learned she’s also afraid of the dark! The hike was nearly
ruined for me. But, eventually, the trail widened, and she calmed down. We
continued to go in and out of short tunnels, but they had openings like windows
cut into them so our passage was easier. It was a trial to get through, but
still a wonderful four hour look at the incredibly diverse ecosystems and rugged
mountain scenery of this truly magical isle. Next time I’m going alone.
There
are two cruises a day manned by a genial crew in period clothes, and a garrulous
parrot of riotous colors. Seeing the Santa Maria in full sail in the red light of the
setting sun is like traveling back in time. Suddenly it is 1492 , and you are
surprised at how tiny the vessel is that carried the beginnings of
‘civilization’ to the New World. 
There is snorkeling and diving on colorful coral reefs and
shipwrecks offshore. To avoid an hour of pool certification before you dive, opt
for snorkeling, and be sure to rent a wetsuit for the cool waters. Madeira was
the site of the 2000 World Surf Championships. Surfing and wind surfing are
popular in the South coast, but are best off the northern shores, where the
rocky access can be very rough on your equipment. Bring your own repair kits and
replacements because there it is an unorganized event in a sparsely populated
area. Deep sea fishing, especially for marlin, can be arranged out of Funchal by
the half day or day. Swordfish, bonito and tuna are also popular sport fish
abundant in the waters off Madeira.
Yes there is a mountain, but no, there is no snow to
toboggan on. Instead there are the carro de
cesto, or the wicker street toboggans of Monte. Local lore has them created by
the husband of a crippled woman who wanted to go down to the village for Sunday
tea. He had a skid that was used to take wood down from the mountain. With the
addition of a bench seat and servants to steer and guide it, he had the perfect
transportation for his wife’s outing, and thereby a quiet afternoon to himself.
Today, a pair of white-suited, thirsty young men in straw ‘boaters’ will take
you on Madeira’s equivalent of a rollercoaster ride, with only the tire-tread
soles of their shoes as brakes. You’ll be
twisted and turned down more than two miles of paved streets, through
intersections and heart-stopping two-way traffic, to end in front of a bar where
the tips they’ve caged are quickly drunk. Join them! The cost is 10 euros, and
it is a thrill you can find no where else in the world. 
The most picturesque, Choupana Hills Resort & Spa, is made
up of stylish, zen-modern bungalows set high above the city in a hillside
garden, with a beautiful green tile pool and an excellent restaurant. It is very nice, but not walking distance to anywhere,
meant more for trysting than trekking. A couple could enjoy a delicious meal of
native ingredients creatively turned into haute cuisine, get lost in the huge
spa, and be very happy consummating a union, or celebrating its anniversary in
this tranquil setting. 
Next on the list was the Estalagem Quinta da Bela
Vista, an old-world sedate retreat where kings and queens are graciously
accommodated. Built around a mid-nineteenth century estate, it is lovely, with
beautiful period gardens. The rooms are filled with the largest private
collection of antique art and furniture in Europe, and it spills out into the
public areas. They are exquisite, but this hotel is more black tie than black
T-shirt. So be sure to pack the clothes for it! Heading back toward the ocean, stop to visit the Estalagem Quinta das
Vistas, and have a drink on their expansive patio overlooking the entire city.
The hotel is gorgeous, with an excellent spa facility and a very cordial staff,
but the location may be just too far out-of-the-loop for some. If you decide
that instead of overlooking the city, you want to be in it, the following are
the hotels for you.
For an appetizer, think
limpets (a not-so-big brother to barnacles) with garlic and lemon butter in a
sizzling pan, grilled and served in their little half shells. They are chewy,
and as tasty as all that garlic and butter can make them.
While bonito and sword fish are also favorites, the fish
course has to be Black Scabbard fish. Called 'espada', it is a rare Medeira
delight. This perfect white-meat fish is adaptable to almost any recipe, but
little used in soups or stews. The fish is over three feet long, with the body
of an eel and the head of a barracuda. It is a fierce looking, scale-less local
anachronism, only recently discovered in one or two other places in the world.
Skinned, and easily boned, the flesh is commonly seasoned with pepper, salt and
lemon, then dredged in flour, dipped in beaten egg, and rolled in bread crumbs
or corn meal before it is fried. For a strong tropical flavor it can be served
with fried fruits and fruit sauces, but its pleasant mild flavor can stand
alone, too. It doesn’t freeze well, though, and must be eaten fresh. Because of
that, one must go to Madeira for this very unusual dish.
This is also served on metal skewers in
restaurants. In one, a waiter told the apocryphal story of Roman soldiers using
oleander sticks instead of laurel for their ‘espetada’, and being poisoned by
the toxins in the wood. True or not, be careful of the type of skewers you use,
or the flavor may be “death”. 
There are many churches to see on Madeira. I visited the
oldest, Nossa Senhora do Monte, high on a hilltop in the village of Monte. This
twin-towered basalt and stucco church was built in 1818. It is called the
oldest because it was built on the site of a 1470 chapel which housed a statue
of the Virgin Mary. Many believe that the statue was given by the Virgin to a
Madeiran shepherd girl. To mark this event, every year on August 15th, the Feast
of the Assumption, pilgrims crawl up the 74 steps on their knees to pray to the
statue of the Virgin Mary, their patron saint. I took the stairs on my feet, and
was surprised to find a shrine to St. Michael the Archangel inside the church. I
knelt. There is always time for a prayer to the Archangel. 
After a bowed-head “Bless me, Father”, and a moment of
silence, I was up and out of the darkness, breathing in the light and beauty of
the view down over Funchal to the Atlantic below.