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The Mexican Riviera’s “Aca”Charming, Friendly AcapulcoBy Rick Millikan
Embarking at San Diego California, our sleek Carnival ship docked within a short walk to Fort San Diego. Passing through customs, we soon cross busy Costera Miguel Aleman Avenue, stride up along the fort’s bulwark over the drawbridge and back into Acapulco’s past. The Spanish constructed the original stronghold in 1616 to protect Orient-bound ships from Dutch, British and French pirates. A 1776 earthquake destroyed the original fort.
A shady walkway descends from the fort to the old town. A friendly Mexican insists we visit nearby Casa de Las Mascaras. Entering the famed home-gallery, we encounter over 550 colourful ceremonial masks. Characterizing early history, dance masks relate Moorish-Christian conflicts and colonial native relations. Others evoke the spiritual world and Mexican mythology.
Alfredo leads us along canopied sidewalks, across busy streets, into the sprawling marketplace. Huge mango trees shaded densely packed stalls filled with fresh produce, plastic toys and love potions. In the heart of the “mercado municipal”, artisans await customers while crafting ornate handicrafts. Vibrantly painted fruit bowls caught our attention. Switching on a fan, the vendor offers Mexican air-conditioning. Thanking Alfredo and saying adios, we barter with the sales “hombre” to a mutually satisfying deal.
At the end of La Quebrada north of the cathedral, visitors witness world-famous divers scale cliffs and plunge 130 feet into a narrow cove covered by only 11 feet of water. Daily midday plunges and nightly torch lit dives are prominent attractions in Aca. Johnny Weissmuller’s and John Wayne’s lushly landscaped Los Flamingos Hotel remains a few blocks further. The zocolo opens onto the bay. A walkway extends east to the cruise ship terminal and south past Aca’s fishing fleet to Playa Tlacopanocha. Here glass-bottom boats tour local coral gardens and sunken Virgin of Guadalupe statue before arriving at Isla La Roqueta. La Roqueta Beach provides pleasant snorkeling. Its trails lead to the city zoo and a hilltop lighthouse with a spectacular viewpoint. Weissmuller loved Acapulco’s vibrant lifestyle, choosing to remain forever interred at nearby Gardens of Time cemetery. We understand his devotion. Aca offers a friendly charm and eternal fascination. If you planning to go: |
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Cruising into spectacular Acapulco Bay my mate and I aptly
sip Margaritas, named after Margarita Sames. Hollywood chums challenged her to
make a Mexican cocktail. The senora devised the refreshing Margarita at an
Acapulco pool party in 1947. Aca, as locals call Acapulco, is a fun destination.
This rebuilt pentagonal fort houses a first class museum.
Crossing the moat, we enter the main gate into spacious interpretive galleries
displaying artifacts of Spain’s early 1500s settlement, pirate’s booty, and
relics from its 250 years as a major port for Asian commerce. The last in a
series of rooms celebrates Acapulco’s role in the Mexican War for Independence.
Our new amigo Alfredo recounts how Johnny Weissmuller
promoted “Aca” after starring in the lavish “Tarzan and the Mermaids” filmed at
nearby Coyuca lagoon. Strolling along he adds, “If you’d like, small motorboats
take you around Coyuca to see wildlife on many small islands.” Conveying our
wish to see old “Aca”, Alfredo volunteers to take us to the municipal market.
As we walk, he recalls how Weissmuller’s famed guests arrived in small planes at
the airport, now Parque Papagayo a 52-acre amusement park, noting how Parrot
Park has a full scale Spanish galleon as well as exciting rides, roller rink and
racetrack.
Ambling through Acalpulco’s oldest neighbourhood, we pass
prosperous trader’s homes built during the Manila trade on our way to the zocolo.
Huge banyan trees shade afternoon balloon sellers and clowns. Dedicated to Our
Lady of Solitude, a stark white modern cathedral stands at the plaza’s end. Its
two domed spires rise into the sunny sky.