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“Finding Nemo…”

Going the Extra Mile to Fiji

By Rick Millikan

Frequently wintering in Hawaii, my wife and I decided to go the extra mile to land in the heart of the South Pacific. Jetting into Nadi on the main island Viti Levu, we soon joined the enthusiastic throng of Aussies, Kiwis and Japanese boarding a Tiger IV catamaran en route to the Mamanucas. Of Fiji’s many attractions, I looked forward most to its extraordinary snorkeling opportunities. Asking a red headed Brisbaner why he came to dive in Fiji rather than the Great Barrier Reef, he smiled, “It’s stinger season!”  Noting my blank response, he added, “Stingers are tiny jellyfish. Maybe you’ve heard about white sharks and ‘gators causin’ divers grief. What’s worse are the stingers!”   I later heard Aussies get cheap flights to Fiji. Once here, fabulous dives are within 10 or 15 minutes of Fijian resorts. Sites along Australia’s Great Barrier Reef often require hour-long boat rides.

Crossing a placid sea, we arrived at Mana, one of Fiji’s 322 habitable islands. Stays in Fiji can be in village bures, campsites, hostels, budget hotels or posh resorts. Our getaway isle lay near Madriki, where Tom Hanks and his volleyball pal “Wilson” lived in a “Castaway” beach hut.  We luxuriated in a stylish suite bordering Mana’s lagoon.

Mana Island’s turquoise water teemed with marine life.  During low tides or rough surf I entered the calm, deep lagoon off our beach, swimming with small silvery blue finned trevali, bright green erin, dappled yellow tailed mullets, and spear-nosed blue gar.
Two sinister stingrays scrambled along its sandy bottom. I drifted above the kaleidoscope of activity in the coral. At high tide I accessed the extraordinary fringe reef off the north beach.  Never had I seen such colourful coral, sponges and fish. The majority of the finned beauties proved unfamiliar.  Yet knowing a litany of descriptive names, I could identify many including whiskered goatfish, puffy pufferfish, surgeonfish, gorgeous angelfish, unicornfish, red squirrelfish, triggerfish, elongated trumpetfish, yellow striped sergeantfish, splendid moorish idols and silvery barracudas.  I also recognized the emerald-green wrasse cleaning an unusual sky-blue parrotfish.

Emerging with mask, snorkel and fins, I met a New Yorker sharing a passion for this reef.  “I’ve seen many reefs,” he explained.  “Travelling to Fiji, I know I’ll enjoy the best snorkeling in the world!”

Fiji provides idyllic conditions for both coral reef environments and snorkelers.  Because water clarity allows sunlight critical for growth, Fiji’s coral thrive in crystal clear seas ranging from 15 to 45 meters. Reefs also require warmth. Even in winter, water temperatures average 24 degrees.

Fiji boasts both extraordinary fringing reefs and two spectacular barrier reefs. Vanua Levu’s Great Sea Reef is the world’s fourth largest barrier reef.  Astrolabe Reef off Kadavu is one of the most colorful. Once a continent stretching to Australia, Fiji was an early recipient of a diverse marine life that continued evolving over millions of years. Southeast Asia’s fertile seas spawned over 600 distinctive corals colonizing eastward over the Pacific. Only 48 species ever reached the Caribbean.

Visiting Mana’s Dive Shop, resident marine biologist Hiroto Oishi showed me his marine photos showing local species of familiar fish as well as totally new varieties. Returning to the reef, I observed Fiji’s own flamboyant parrotfish, butterflyfish and angelfish swooping over flowery pink table corals, among lavender leather corals and through blue tipped staghorn corals.  Using the new litany of graphic names, I noted blue iridescent damsels, batfish, rabbitfish, and garish sweetlips. Awe struck, I watched a half dozen transparent reef squid hovering above a canyon of pastel coral.

An orange neon striped anenome fish idled among the vibrant coral.  I had found “Nemo”. Bodies coated with protective mucus, “Nemo” hovered with his mate in their green tentacled sanctuary. Also known as clownfish, parenting is taken seriously with “Nemo” tending the nest.  Appearing timid, these fish aggressively defend anenome homes from predators like butterflyfish. Burbling goodbye to my finny friends, I returned to the beach elated from this vibrant alien world.

Going the extra mile, we enjoyed an amazing south sea adventure. This nation of idyllic islands bestowed a welcoming “Bula!” hospitable friendliness, tasty cuisine, passionate music, and unending beauty.  Yet what I treasured most Fiji’s pristine water. Swimming among its extraordinary reefs I had experienced one of life’s greatest joys.

Fiji Tourism www.bulafiji.com
Direct Flights from L.A. and Vancouver to Fiji: Air Pacific www.airpacific.com
Mana Island Resort www.manafiji.com

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