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“Finding Nemo…”
Going the Extra Mile to Fiji
By Rick Millikan
Frequently wintering in Hawaii, my wife and I decided to go
the extra mile to land in the heart of the South Pacific. Jetting into Nadi on
the main island Viti Levu, we soon joined the enthusiastic throng of Aussies,
Kiwis and Japanese boarding a Tiger IV catamaran en route to the Mamanucas. Of
Fiji’s many attractions, I looked forward most to its extraordinary snorkeling
opportunities. Asking a red headed Brisbaner why he came to dive in Fiji rather
than the Great Barrier Reef, he smiled, “It’s stinger season!” Noting my blank
response, he added, “Stingers are tiny jellyfish. Maybe you’ve heard about white
sharks and ‘gators causin’ divers grief. What’s worse are the stingers!” I
later heard Aussies get cheap flights to Fiji. Once here, fabulous dives are
within 10 or 15 minutes of Fijian resorts. Sites along Australia’s Great Barrier
Reef often require hour-long boat rides.
Crossing a placid sea, we arrived at Mana, one of Fiji’s
322 habitable islands. Stays in Fiji can be in village bures, campsites,
hostels, budget hotels or posh resorts. Our getaway isle lay near Madriki, where
Tom Hanks and his volleyball pal “Wilson” lived in a “Castaway” beach hut. We
luxuriated in a stylish suite bordering Mana’s lagoon.
Mana Island’s turquoise water teemed with marine life.
During low tides or rough surf I entered the calm, deep lagoon off our beach,
swimming with small silvery blue finned trevali, bright green erin, dappled
yellow tailed mullets, and spear-nosed blue gar.
Two sinister stingrays scrambled along its sandy bottom. I drifted above the
kaleidoscope of activity in the coral. At high tide I accessed the extraordinary
fringe reef off the north beach. Never had I seen such colourful coral, sponges
and fish. The majority of the finned beauties proved unfamiliar. Yet knowing a
litany of descriptive names, I could identify many including whiskered goatfish,
puffy pufferfish, surgeonfish, gorgeous angelfish, unicornfish, red
squirrelfish, triggerfish, elongated trumpetfish, yellow striped sergeantfish,
splendid moorish idols and silvery barracudas. I also recognized the
emerald-green wrasse cleaning an unusual sky-blue parrotfish.
Emerging with mask, snorkel and fins, I met a New Yorker
sharing a passion for this reef. “I’ve seen many reefs,” he explained.
“Travelling to Fiji, I know I’ll enjoy the best snorkeling in the world!”
Fiji provides idyllic conditions for both coral reef
environments and snorkelers. Because water clarity allows sunlight critical for
growth, Fiji’s coral thrive in crystal clear seas ranging from 15 to 45 meters.
Reefs also require warmth. Even in winter, water temperatures average 24
degrees.
Fiji boasts both extraordinary fringing reefs and two
spectacular barrier reefs. Vanua Levu’s Great Sea Reef is the world’s fourth
largest barrier reef. Astrolabe Reef off Kadavu is one of the most colorful.
Once a continent stretching to Australia, Fiji was an early recipient of a
diverse marine life that continued evolving over millions of years. Southeast
Asia’s fertile seas spawned over 600 distinctive corals colonizing eastward over
the Pacific. Only 48 species ever reached the Caribbean.
Visiting Mana’s Dive Shop, resident marine biologist Hiroto
Oishi showed me his marine showing local species of familiar fish as well
as totally new varieties. Returning to the reef, I observed Fiji’s own
flamboyant parrotfish, butterflyfish and angelfish swooping over flowery pink
table corals, among lavender leather corals and through blue tipped staghorn
corals. Using the new litany of graphic names, I noted blue iridescent damsels,
batfish, rabbitfish, and garish sweetlips.
Awe struck, I watched a half dozen
transparent reef squid hovering above a canyon of pastel coral.
An orange neon striped anenome fish idled among the vibrant
coral. I had found “Nemo”. Bodies coated with protective mucus, “Nemo” hovered
with his mate in their green tentacled sanctuary. Also known as clownfish,
parenting is taken seriously with “Nemo” tending the nest. Appearing timid,
these fish aggressively defend anenome homes from predators like butterflyfish.
Burbling goodbye to my finny friends, I returned to the beach elated from this
vibrant alien world.
Going the extra mile, we enjoyed an amazing south sea
adventure. This nation of idyllic islands bestowed a welcoming “Bula!”
hospitable friendliness,
tasty cuisine, passionate music, and unending beauty.
Yet what I treasured most Fiji’s pristine water. Swimming among its
extraordinary reefs I had experienced one of life’s greatest joys.
Fiji Tourism
www.bulafiji.com
Direct Flights from L.A. and Vancouver to Fiji: Air Pacific
www.airpacific.com
Mana Island Resort
www.manafiji.com
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