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Old Istanbul

Sights to Remember

By Chris Millikan

Turning, twisting and honking madly around pedestrian-only and one-way streets into old Istanbul, an affordable but torturous-taxi-ride from our cruise-ship helped us maximize a day of sightseeing. Dropped off at Sultanahmet Square, we found three prominent landmarks fairly close together, all easily reached by walking.

We first visited the Hagia Sophia. This popular architectural masterpiece was the biggest church in the Christian world from 535 until the Ottoman conquest. Sultans took the church over in 1453, painted on top of Christian icons and transformed the marvellous Church of Divine Wisdom into a mosque used until 1935. Today a splendid museum, its beautiful ceilings remain intact.

Nearby in 1609, Sultan Ahmet the first built the grand rival to the Hagia Sophia. After my daughter and I posed before the equally famed Blue Mosque, we proceeded through the lovely park to the grand entrance. Setting it apart from the many other city mosques, the magnificent Blue Mosque is decorated with thousands of blue-Iznik tiles and boasts six graceful minarets. Stowing our sandals in plastic bags, we entered the still-functioning mosque from the breezy marble courtyard just as morning prayers ended. With a capacity for over 10,000 worshippers, the staggering size made us feel very small as we moved barefoot across the age-old carpeted floors like thousands before us. Dimly lighted chandeliers reflecting on blue tiles created soft, mystical interiors.

Close at hand lay the legendary Topkapi Palace. Until the mid-19th-century, veils of mystery encircled the Ottoman sultans who ruled from the extensive walled-compound of domes, turrets and minaret-like chimneys. A top-notch museum since1924, gardens, courtyards, workshops, kitchens, armories, baths, fountains and residential areas became our favoured highlight.

For a mere million Turkish-lire each, we uncovered extravagant lifestyles in four courtyards. Never ransacked by enemy-armies, intact treasures included bejeweled swords and daggers, armor, silk clothing embroidered with gold thread, luscious carpets, textiles, ceramics, manuscripts, jewels and paintings. The Treasury Room simply dazzled. Sighting the Spoon Maker, the world’s 7th-largest-diamond, our teenaged daughter drawled, “ Oh, Man!! That’s a lotta bling-bling!” Gems and pearls ornamenting an elaborate golden throne inspired MY imagination. Targeted by thieves in1964’s movie“ Topkapi,” the emerald-and-diamond encrusted Topkapi Dagger still commands admiration.

Disbanded in 1909, the Harem opened to the public in 1960. Eunuchs once strictly guarded mazes of several hundred rooms, baths, courtyards, gardens, and passageways where wives, concubines and children lived, ruled-over by the Queen Mother. Widespread gossip, rivalry and intrigue often involved plots to ensure that sons inherited the throne. It was not unheard of for one wife to poison another’s son so that hers would be sultan.

Most of the women played stringed-musical-instruments and offered entertaining diversions from extensive airy balconies in the grandest room. An elaborate throne remains in Hall of the Sultan. Never permitted outside the harem, winding staircases   gave the women access to a lovely private courtyard with an immense swimming pool. Chambers just above the pool were reserved for the four official wives and favourites. We imagined pretty ladies splashing and laughing in perfumed waters, evocative music floating on the air.

We departed the secluded compound into a sunny square. A Turkish band in brilliant crimson uniforms marched briskly to passionate military-music, a moving conclusion to our walk with powerful Ottoman sultans.

Uphill from the square sprawls the ultimate shopping mall of over 4000 covered shops and restaurants. Before returning across the Galata Bridge to the pier, we browsed past brimming stalls along miles of lively corridors in the renowned Grand Bazaar. Turkish carpets, jewelry, leather goods, glazed tiles, copper and brass, pottery, trinkets, souvenirs and Turkish Delight candy tempted locals and tourists alike. We still wear the brilliantly patterned long wool socks that we haggled-for and bought-there for a good price…warm memories of a totally remarkable day.

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