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Back country hiking in the Canadian RockiesBy D.K.Bhaskar“The weather forecast for today is 60% probability of
thunder showers in the afternoon and 40% chances of moderate sunshine in the
morning,” announced Kristina on the breakfast table. A rectangular seating area
with two big Oak wood tables joined could easily make room for twenty outdoor
enthusiasts to enjoy a mouth-watering platter of delicacies overlooking the
alpine meadows and glaciers of the Canadian Rockies.
The snow from last winter still lay scattered all across the meadows. The landscape was covered with saucer-shaped depressions or suncups which form when snow melts high in the mountains. Sunlight, heating from air and dirt play a role in the formation of these structures on an ablating snow surface. We still had to climb uphill and then over the ridge in the eastwardly direction for about 30 minutes. We were already at an altitude of 8200 feet!
How to get there?By Air: Calgary is the nearest international airport. Continental, Northwest-KLM flies regularly from several destinations in the United States. There is an option to pick up four or more passengers from Calgary directly to Purcell by a helicopter with prior arrangement. Else, one needs to drive to Golden, the nearest town and reach the Canadian helicopter hanger.
Facts: Allow at least a day for acclimatizing to the altitude. Inform any discomforts or symptoms of discomforts in your body to the staff immediately. For more details
contact:
Places Less Travelled Ltd. |
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TM
Morning
enthusiasm leads to excitement once the heavy breakfast gets into the palette.
Religiously I was up very early (I almost didn’t sleep with excitement) in the
morning to catch any possible sighting of the first rays of the sun emerging
from the towering mountain ranges. Although the undulating terrains make it
difficult to view the rising sun behind the mountain tops, dawn in these
pristine mountain ranges is simply out of the world. It was two hours after the
sun had made its presence felt on this part of the world but we were yet to feel
its warmth. Ten of us around the rectangular tables were wondering what
adventure was in store for us which of course depended heavily on the weather.
After careful consideration, it was decided that we would
be divided into two groups to undertake a moderately strenuous hike along the
ridges and the valleys of this famous and vulnerable landscape. One would be
around 15 KMs while the other would take half that time. I had landed the
previous night from a helicopter from Golden the nearest town at the foothills
of the Rockies. After about 20 minutes flight over the glaciers and the Alpine
forests pilot pointed out ‘there is the Purcell Lodge’… while I scanned the
landscape to spot a tiny dot through my glass window. As he started to descend
from a height of about 11000 ft, I got a fantastic view of a beautiful lodge
right in the centre of acres of green vegetation surrounded by the towering
peaks and imposing glaciers.
After
a heavy breakfast we were given 15 minutes to pack our own meal for lunch from
the buffet on the table. All participants geared up with lunch packs, walking
poles, warm clothing, rain jackets, gaiters, water bottles, energy tablets, warm
caps; the list looked longer than the hike. No one complained about it, as our
group mix of young and old were equally high-spirited and enthused about
trekking along these gorgeous meadows and creeks. Leona, the youngest member of
the group was fourteen and Doyle, the senior most participant was in her early
60’s.
While we all came out of the lodge a strong breeze chilled
our bones and suddenly a hail storm started lashing onto our faces. We started
our journey inspite of the blistering cold weather. “July and August are the
best months to visit these areas exclaimed Terry who was a designated member (it
was his 15th trip to this part of the Rockies) at the back of the line while
Kristina with her long legs and rich hiking experience from the Rockies to the
Himalayas, made the trek look easy and simple much to the dismay of those
following her. Six members one behind the other walked past a small stream that
trickled down the glaciers through the carpet of greenery and burgundy red soil.
All these areas would have 3 meters of snow in another 4 months informed
Kristina.
Cheeeeek, Cheeek…
I heard feeble sounds as we explored the vast landscape. The ground was
interspersed with holes big and small. I was wondering what was responsible for
these strange holes. I immediately got an answer to my question as a mountain
squirrel suddenly popped out its head and looked around rather cautiously for
any possible predators. The big holes I was told are created by the grizzlies
while trying to pull squirrels out of their holes. These squirrels are brown
with a line of orange below their neck; these tiny creatures are far superior
substitutes for animation films.
The
weather got better with time as we continued our hike overlooking the meadows
when we caught the first glimpse of Sir Mt. Donald. “Wow”, exclaimed everyone in
unison at the fabulous peaks lined up over the horizon! Our eyes witnessed a
panoramic spectacle from left to right with the majestic mountain peaks spanning
the entire breadth of the landscape. The rivers and streams flowing down the
glaciers crisscrossed the vegetation and the rough terrain, a sight that still
lingers in my memory to this day. We stood there silently, too overwhelmed to
speak anything when mosquitoes took over the scene and disturbed our tranquil
trance. We marched on further dodging the deep holes created by grizzlies, a
feat that proved to be quite challenging.
Soon
it was time to have lunch and everyone squatted on the ridge choosing a place
which had a good view of the ranges. The barren trees in the secondary alpine
forests looked very artistic against the backdrop of the mountains. The topic of
conversation over lunch varied from George Bush to the Ganges and before long it
was thirty five minutes into our lunch break when a strong breeze brought along
thunder showers. Making sure no trash was left behind; we proceeded to the Twin
lakes, our planned, final destination. Energized we strode with determination
and climbed to a height of 8900 ft. The view overlooking the two small lakes
with the mountains just behind them was magical and for a fraction of a second,
the Sun lit up the whole landscape.
Couldn’t
be there for a longer time! The long hike across the pristine Rolling Meadows on
the alpine landscape was simply breathtaking. The place is full of myriad vistas
and superb views. The first showers blasted their fury on the ridge while all of
us hurriedly escaped into the ponchos and rain covers. The journey had to
continue back and it would take quite a while before we get back to the lodge.
The rain had a soothing effect on our tired bodies while the trek took its toll
on our knees. But for now, no one seemed to complain and we marched on supported
by two hiking sticks.
By
Road: Golden is about 172 miles away from the Calgary international airport. The
drive on the Trans Canadian highway passes through spectacular landscapes and
the Banff mountain ranges. Although it takes about 3 hours and 30 minutes, you
could allow another 3 to 4 hours for enjoying the scenic drive and lovely little
towns.